Just wondered if anyone here has used one of the Hilda milling tables, of which there are a few to choose from, the one below being the one I’m considering.
Here is a LINK to them.
HILDA MINIQ BG6350
I am also really interested in one but really concerned it will not be even close to be accurate
Im no expert, but from what I see it doesn’t use a dovetail and a gib. Looks like the rigidness may not be that great. It might work for a small router mill setup but most any time you can increase rigidness you increase accuracy, cutting speed, less tool wear and failure with better final surface finish.
Something like this I feel would be more rigid, a little on the small side though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Axis-Cross-Sliding-Milling
What do you intend to use it for?
You know, I agree with both of you - oddly this one is the most expensive of all of those ‘type’ of ones.I did watch a video on BG’s site, but it was in Spanish I think and it did seem to wobble a bit. That said the guy didn’t have the speed anywhere near fast enough. The video on BG he uses a bosch drill, and it is almost identical to the one I just got from Aldi (cosmetically it’s different, but you can see it’s the same underneath), the woman said they all come out the same factory, I believe her now lol!
Here is a better video, but in Russian (I think) seems to be ok for light stuff, which is all I’d use it for. I think even in this video it could be faster rpm, seems slow.
I’ll get the Mrs to translate it later after work 
You can try using auto-translated subtitles for foreign language videos. Some languages translate better than others. Auto-translated subtitles are helpful when accurate and comical when not.
At the bottom of the YouTube video click on "Settings" (looks like a gear) and in settings click on "Subtitles" and then "Auto-translate" and then select the language you want.
I'm assuming you will be using this "milling table" with a "drill press". I have used milling machines but have never used this type of setup and would be extra careful if I did and also make sure that both the head and table of the drill press were clamped as tight as possible against the column so they could not rotate relative to each other.
I wore out the bearings on my first drill press from the sideways load using small drum sander bits against wood. Most drill presses are only designed for downward loads. Milling machines are designed to take sideways loads but besides that they are also very much more rigid than a drill press.
If your milling setup is not rigid or has any backlash, you will experience chattering and the bit will grab (and could break) even when used at sensible RPMs and feed speeds. The grabbing will put downward force on the chuck and arbor of your drill press both of which are usually held in place by taper fits and along with the sideways loads being applied from the feed direction and feed speed along with the chattering can cause these parts to unseat and dislodge from the drill press (which happened once to me just while drilling a large hole through tough material). Also from some scary experiences I have had woodworking with routers and shapers be aware that the forces will be different for "climb cutting" verses "conventional cutting" feed directions which you may not notice on a milling machine but could make a difference with this more fragile setup.
I won’t be using it that often, so it’s not too much of a worry.
Since posting this, I have found the cheapest version on ebay delivered for just £18.39 (not the same as the one above) but have seen a good few vids on it and 50% seem to be fine, the others struggle, you wonder did they tighten all the screws? - anyway for £18 it’s worth a punt. If it works out to be poor, I’ll bolt it on my crappy unused older pillar drill (drills triangles lol) and sell it on gumtree, someone is sure to want it.
Let us know how you get on with it, interested in this 
Will do
When you do get it, spend some extra time cleaning up and polishing the ways and gibs. Also adjusting the gibs to just the right amount of play can make a huge difference in rigidness and the friction of movement.
It took me a day or two on my lathe trying to get everything dialed in as close as I could get it, big improvement over the way it came off the truck.
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I would buy the bottom one for $200.00, it has graduated dials.
The dovetail is rigid if it is not Harbor Freight quality.
Travel sucks on all models I checked.
It would be very tempting to build one from scratch.
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US $61.21
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$85.99
Free Shipping
Travel Length: 80 mm
Vertical Travel: 75 mm
Dial travel : 0.01 mm
https://www.ebay.com/i/124188720688?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=124188720688&targetid=942290988659&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014042&poi=&campaignid=11615420594&mkgroupid=111542120525&rlsatarget=pla-942290988659&abcId=9300455&merchantid=118852911&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-FIyeSg3RFSk_9h0LoKAPXhil0s55IyoTNlaENVBN0ukIkzoFmJouBoCVJkQAvD_BwE
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$172.92
+$19.78 shipping
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Buy the one below ….
Item# 3900-0027
Regular price: $165.95
Sale price: $142.95
Table 5-1/2 x 12” T-slots on 2-1/2” Centers
Height 4-1/2”
Travel 8” Longitudinal 5” Transverse
Base 8 x 9” oval with U slots for up to 5/8” bolt on 7-3/4” to 8-1/2” bolt circle
Vise Capacity Max. moving 9-3/4”
Wt. 40 lbs
Thanks for the input guys. Some nice suggestions there
I more than likely will upgrade - but I just couldn’t turn this one down for £18.95, I think with a bit of adjustment as you suggest it will be good enough for my needs - if it’s not well, it’s not a massive amount of money. Certainly for around £100-120 there is a lot of good quality budget choices, it’s just creeping up into too expensive for me/how much it would be used.
I only want it for light work, maybe putting the odd trit /gitd slot or shape in etc. Maybe doing some other stuff depending how it copes.
The videos I saw of these (any model) 50% it was wobbly and I can’t help think they hadn’t been pre adjusted as Moderator007 suggests.
The 3rd video down shows it happily milling cast iron and steel (very high speed though, my drill won’t go that fast) but overall it seemed to cope very well, so a bit of ally or brass/copper should be fine.
It’s apparently been posted and as son as I’ve got it and give it a little test I’ll let you all know how it fares.
You should not mess rigidness and zero-gap stiffness.
For lightweight equipment (low torque, high speed, high feed) rigidness is not most important thing. Tool, tool chuck and spindle itself are not made for big side loads so cross-table is not the weakest part.
Take more care about gaps. Check if there are adjustable gibs, check if you can stretch lead screw, check if but is tight to the screw. Less rigid, but gap-less cross table will give you more pleasure, than many kilos of cast iron with loose dovetails and worn out lead screws.
I just realised whilst in the shed, I don’t really need one - where my lathe slides fit on with a screw underneath the bed (bolt goes through the bed) it is so easy to remove, all it needs it to be secured to a piece of thick shaped to fit piece of hardwood or alike then attached to the drill base and I’ll have a really good one to use , should this one be terrible!
Or, when I get into tidying mode I could just stand the drill over the lathe… that would mean moving a shelf and some hassle but it may be worth it , in theory it may make it easier to do my little slots etc into a tube or light body.
Before I do that, I’d like to see what happens with this £18 table. Fingers crossed it will arrive before Christmas.
Ok well my cheap £18 table arrived in lightening speed today!
First observations, sloppy movements both axis. I can say for sure if you used it right out of the box it would be terrible.
After 5 minutes adjustment though, I can fairly surely say it will be fine for my needs. All the slop has been adjusted out, and it has a good balance between movement, and no slop.
Obviously if you tighten those grub screws too much you can’t move it at all.
Like anything cheap, the screws are junk. I will get 8 new 4mm x 16mm cap heads for the adjusters and maybe 8 locking nuts to keep them tight as when milling they will just wobble out with these poor quality fixings, the 10 mm grubs screws are barely long enough and one of the crappy nuts just popped off lol.
The supplied clamping nuts will suffice, although again best replaced with better quality ones.
I have not used it for milling yet, maybe the weekend.
All roughly bolted on……searched the entire house and shed for the 1 milling cutter I had and can’t find it…… 
Here’s what we have so far… after 5 mins plying/greasing/tightening it’s ok, couldn’t wait to try it so slapped a bit of sheet aluminium and tried the wiggly bit, then just a straight line - bear in mind this is my first time ever using it and it’s by hand - I’d say it isn’t a bad effort. i wanted it to do little lines/inserts and it does with relative ease.
Also re milling bits - I know zero about it, or what to buy - I do have 1/2/3/4/5/6 in some random ones I got years ago but do I need different ones for different materials?
I am literally doing the odd slot and alike, nothing heavy likely in aluminium, brass and copper.
There is a link here for ones at banggood if anyone would like to recommend any from there.
It’s kind of a crap shoot with the China milling bits . For softer metals as your using , they should be fine . Most of them will last awhile . I’d like to learn how to resharpen them , but they are cheap enough to just replace as needed .