Has anybody here swapped the LED of an Armytek Prime C2 V3 XP-L? I like this light quite a bit, but Armytek has made it really difficult to get the LEDs PCB out. It is fastened with brass rivets inside the head. The difficult part is that one needs to avoid damaging the cables because those can’t really be replaced. The problem with this is that the cables come up through the rivets!
An experienced modder is helping me and he has basically given up on the light. Too much risk, he says.
I gave up on Armytek modding.
That as far as I got on my Prime.
Being brass you can carefully upend both of the ends and presumably pull out the star. Precision work with a small diameter steel rod, or even dentist tools.
Assuming its not then glued you can remove it. If it is glued you may have to break it
If the rivets were not there would the reflector hold it in place (or you can add glue later as well).
You could pull it apart but ruin the light, or you may be ale to replace without a hitch or something in between, is it worth the risk?
Bump!
Anybody else have experience in this regard?
Sorry mate, no experience. My prime A1 didn’t have the rivets. I would disconnect the leads first and try with a pick, sharpened small screwdriver, or knife to pry up the edges of the rivets. It doesn’t matter if they are destroyed if you have thermal epoxy or if the reflector/optic presses down on the star…
Was your PCB glued? If so, how did you remove it?
I don’t remember scraping any glue from the star or flashlight, so it must have been only thermal paste. I reflowed a warmer XM-L2 onto the stock star and replaced the paste with what I have.
No it’s not glued. AT only use sticky thermal paste. You can check it yourself, the MCPCB can slide sideways a bit. I will mod mine as well as soon as I got some left over 219C 
AT use rivets to make it more durable (and harder for us). I love this Prime very much, slim and durable except the too stiff switch.
- Clemence
Clemence, you were able to mod your light with The rivets?
No, I was waiting for you to do it first 
But it seems it’s the other way around now 
Will try it today
Here you go….
Not the prettiest surgery, but that was a quick easy job. Sacrificed a small flat screwdriver, sharpened to blade
OK, mr. Driver, it’s your turn now
Cheers,
Clemence
Very nice result! Much tighter beam, definitely great tint, and of course lower lumen output. But you won’t want to get back to those ugly XPL! :+1: 
It’s like upgrading to XPL HI with all the benefit of 9050 219C - Lossless swap!
Will post the result + beamshots tonight
Thanks a lot! My hopes have gone up again :+1: 
Indeed “premium”
The difference in hotspot size does seem noticeable though…
Couldn’t resist not to add “premium” label next to the original “premium” branding. Why AT uses premium word for such a greenium stuff?
- Clemence
Anyone mod a wizard or tiara? Similar construction?
In the russian fonarevka forum somebody opened his Wizard (XM-L2). I think the PCB was just screwed down. It’s a little bit more difficult because the bezel ist press fit instead of screwed. You need to pry it up.
Ask Dale here in BLF. He managed to pry open his Wizard. Link: TEST: Armytek Wizard Pro XPL HD Warm - How HOT Can It Be? - #6 by DB_Custom
The trick is how to remove the fit pressed bezel. Some suggest to freeze it, while I prefer to heat it up to 200C.
