Would this light dissipate heat better if the threads weren’t anodized? I know some people want to be able to loosen the tail for lock out so I can see having anodizing there, but the head end should have been bare, right? Or would there be galvanic stuff going on if the aluminum and copper made contact?
I love how BLF members worked on these drivers and how Manker was willing to run with it and build lights around them. I would hate to see them give up on that. The reason these lights are great is because they listened.
The light shouldn’t get hot in a backpack because it should be off, right? Maybe if the switch was accidentally pressed? Might be a reason to turn off memory or loosen the tailcap if you’re throwing it in a bag.
I firmly believe that the late Edward Aloysius Murphy jr. is looking down on me…… and he is smiling.
That’s the reason why I always loosen the tailcap of any light that I’m not actually carrying. Not a tiny but, but a full turn.
And remove the batteries from copper and SS lights with a switch like the X5/X6 and the Solarforce.
BTW, the same goes for my Thorfire C8s, with the “powder-like” anodisation. I am under the impression that it is not insulating very well. When I unscrew the tailcap with the switch ON, the light flickers all the way till the cap falls in my hand.
It’s also one of the smallest 18650 lights around, and makes the BLF A6 or Convoy S2 look pretty chunky. I’m still kinda hoping someone will get a manufacturer to make a BLF version of it (CNQG brass 18650), and hopefully also its AA-sized sibling.
Tried the XPG3 and fried one of them, it was pulling just over 18amps on a 30Q ? Now I’m running XPL- HI V3 1C in one and XPL- HI V3 2B in the other, both running the H17F driver.
Sorry no, I bought a bunch of them last year at IO, But Kaidomain has the V3 1C’s http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S024438 The 1C’s are not bad at all in the other (my wife’s) light because of the optic.
does exist remote switch ,which fitt for this flashlight…?
also question-does exist any ONE MODE driver with fet driver characteristics?i mean amps:)but i need one mode.
Just checked it, 4.03v 13.22amps, 13.81amps right off the charger. On a 30Q. I have it (H17F) in a S2+ triple with one of Brians copper pills in it, no problems so far?
I understand most people want the maximum amps possible.
I’m wondering if there’s a way to cap the amps out of any of the readily available drivers, so I can use triple amber or red emitters without drastically reducing the lifetime of the emitters.
Is there a setting I’m missing, or do you just flash the driver so its highest level is less than 100 percent?
In my quad M1 build using Luxeon cyan rebels, I started by monitoring the current using higher resistance cells first. I started with protected cells, and then moved up to unprotected. Right now I’m running it on unprotected Panasonic NCR18650A which gives me a fairly steady 8A. Running good with no problems.
