Yeah, I understand blue and cyan and green, and perhaps the PC emitters generally, are less likely to burn up.
I’m using amber, which is more sensitive, as well as PC amber, which I think RMM says is safe at 1.9A per emitter
I was hoping there’s a specific way to use triples and set a top limit for these hot new drivers, as I like TK’s interface.
In direct drive mode, the only way to limit them is by proper cell selection. Stay away from high drain cells and start testing. All of those color emitters can handle 2A no problem mounted on DTP mcpcbs, especially with a pure copper pill.
I just built about 14 Red emitter lights, all driven between 2A no 2.2A. Going over that won’t necessarily harm the emitter, but will go into the area of diminishing returns. No more gain in lumens, in fact it will start to drop.
Edit: don’t forget, from the second you start DD, the cell current will keep dropping putting less and less current through the emitter as you run it.
OR, you could use Wights PZL driver, flash it with TK’s firmware, and have the best of both worlds. The PZL is 7+1 7135 chips, or as many after the +1 as you deem fit.
OR you could put a sense resistor between the negative lead the FET gate…
AND/OR you could use smaller wires, and/or longer wires.
Have you tried the sense resistor method Dale?
What? ME? Limit a flashlight? Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha, quit it, you’re killing me! hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Oh, uh, sorry bout that. No, I haven’t, want me to?
<——and they’re off………
Hahahahahahhaha
I just asked , i don’t think I’m going to do it either .
Also i didn’t know wight’s pzl driver , and ordered some days ago pd’s tripledown boards .
Well, I am in touch with Chloe at BG so I am hoping to resolve this. Assuming I do, is the consensus of opinion that the recommended battery for this is the purple Efest IMR 700mAh, 10.5A flat top? And anywhere I should buy or avoid buying these due to counterfeits (I don’t think BangGood sells them).
And the answer is yes, yes it does work.
I have an XR55 that is using an XM-L2 emitter and Efest purple 26650 cell. In this particular light the amperage is 3.78A at the top of the cell, between the cell and driver. If I put a 4” long piece of 24ga wire between the 20ga negative lead and the pad on the mcpcb, the current drops to 3.53A. If I put an R070 sense resistor on the mcpcb and solder the negative lead to the other end of this resistor (I stood it up to make it easier) the current drops to 3.09A. If I remove that and use an 1R0 (1 ohm) the current goes all the way down to 0.92A. So yes, a sense resistor will limit current after the mosfet.
Good to know .
Until i even think about , you tested it 
Thank you Dale!
According to Kenji in this post:
the Tensai/Enercig gives the highest output.
You can buy them here:
http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/l/enerpower-18350-imr-limn-700mah-flat-top-battery.html
I use them myself in my S41 and I can assure you that it is bright.
I use them too . Unfortunately i don’t have a way to measure such a big amperage …
Giving the firmware a lower ceiling could work, but isn’t ideal. It would be alternating between too much current and none at all.
You could also go oldschool and stack 7135 chips to get the right amount of power. RMM still sells qlite drivers (or his “moonlight special”, which is very nice), and still offers 7135 chip stacking for an extra fee. You could configure either one for a maximum of ~4.5 amps in order to provide 1.5 to each emitter. You might run into clearance issues on the spring side though, if chips are stacked too high.
> Wights PZL driver, … TK’s firmware, ….The PZL is 7+1 7135, or as many …
Thanks Dale. I’m not building/flashing drivers, but this is a good suggestion.
At least it helps clarify what I’m hoping to find.
The PZL driver is what I use when I want to keep the familiar firmware but limit output. Like the MT-G2 in an X6, I’m running it at 3A and it operates like I’m used to while controlling overall heat and output. And yes, I Zener modified it to protect the MCU from the 2-cell set-up required for the 6V emitter. And yes, I know, even I sometimes build a light that’s not running full out. Shocking, isn’t it? 
And yes, reversal of the effort by installing resistance seems counter-intuitive, but if a change in emitters is what a situation calls for then it’s an easy remedy that allows for not blowing the less capable color output emitter. Not like I personally will be going that direction, but it’s a viable option I guess. For me, with all the components and driver boards on hand to easily accommodate the lesser emitter, I’d just build the appropriate driver and swap drivers.
That means that virtually anyone could do the same, as I am not anywhere near an electrical engineer and until very recently I couldn’t solder speaker wires on a car speaker.
They don’t look too readily available in the US so I may use the Efest. Thank you.
Matt just buy Efest , the reason we got the Enercig is that we can’t buy Efest in Europe
Anyone know when the next batch will ship? Ordered on 5/26 and still says backordered.