Attention modders! Please help mod my JM07 Side-clicky

[whokilledJR]

@Firelight2

Cut a thin strip of aluminum and bend it into a ring. Wrap it around the edges of your 21mm board to increase the diameter to 22 or 23 mm so it will fit the light. Apply a little solder to hold the ring in place.

I like your suggestion Firelight2 and may give this a go, have you done this before?

[whokilledJR]

@mattthemuppet

if so, then DrJones has 3 really neat looking e-switch options, including a new one “mobydrv”. There’s no reason why you can’t keep the switch and have the driver you want

For a blanking plate, you might be able to find some contact board (like bread board, but with solder holes instead of push holes) that’s about the right size or you can trim some to fit. OL used one to make a battery plate in a recent mod (Sky Ray King?)

Thanks mattthemuppet, I might give this a go. I’m also in contact with DrJones now, great to have him around and love the options his drivers bring.

[mattthemuppet]

no problem, he’s a super helpful guy and a real asset to BLF!

[cncyana]

Does Dr Jones have a driver which only works from the side-switch and doesn’t need the tail switch?

[mattthemuppet]

I know that mobydrv is designed to work purely from an e-switch like the one on the JM07. Check out DrJones’ website to see if it does what you want:
http://drjones.dyndns.info/#over

[cncyana]

@whokilledJR

Here’s where I hit a brick wall. The driver diameter is about 22.5mm with no contact board….

I have a 21mm contact board on the way from int outdoor, however it’s probably too small.

JR - I’m very new at this so have a few questions:

1) Isn’t the “contact board” the one with the spring in the picture? It seems the driver and contact board are one and the same board but with hardware occupying opposite sides of the same board? Or are they 2 boards back to back and held together by the metal rim?
2) Is the threaded brass ring which was holding down the original 22.5mm board wide enough to hold down a 21mm board also?
3) On Dr Jones’ site, there are pictures of boards on the upper right - are we looking at each side of a single board? If so, then it would seem similar to the single board setup which came out of the JM07?
4) Is there room for another board in the head of the JM07? Since you are going from a single board setup to a 2-board setup?
5) What are Dr. Jones’ board diameters that he sells? Or does he make them the size you want?

thanks.

[cncyana]

@mattthemuppet

I know that mobydrv is designed to work purely from an e-switch like the one on the JM07. Check out DrJones’ website to see if it does what you want:
http://drjones.dyndns.info/#over

thanks!

[whokilledJR]

Hi cncyana, I’ll try and answer your questions:

Yes the contact board and driver board are one and the same. There is only one board.

The brass ring won’t hold down a 21mm board, the board will just fall through the cavity area.

Dr Jones’ boards are 17mm in diameter, they can work without an additional contact board, but you need the right setup. They’re too small to work without a contact board on the JM07. Unless he has some other boards or drivers I don’t know about, you should PM him directly.

There is room for another baord, but not a large baord that’s more than at a guess 6mm tall. The cavity area isn’t that large in the new JM07.

[cncyana]

JR - thanks for your answers.

1) Did Dr Jones discuss how to solve the too-small diameter board problem (17mm vs 22.5mm)?
2) Dr Jones’ drivers go up to 3A which isn’t all that high. Is there a way to hook up the original board to Dr Jones board to add more power?
3) Are you planning on using Dr Jones’ lumo35drv since that one works for a flashlight with an on-off clicky tail switch and an electronic mode changing switch?

thanks

[whokilledJR]

@cncyana

JR - thanks for your answers.

1) Did Dr Jones discuss how to solve the too-small diameter board problem (17mm vs 22.5mm)?
2) Dr Jones’ drivers go up to 3A which isn’t all that high. Is there a way to hook up the original board to Dr Jones board to add more power?
3) Are you planning on using Dr Jones’ lumo35drv since that one works for a flashlight with an on-off clicky tail switch and an electronic mode changing switch?

thanks

No probs, haven’t discussed with Dr Jones yet how to solve the too small diameter, I was hoping to get some answers from the forum which I did. I’ll probably use the original driver board as a contact/spring board and remove and desolder all the parts. However one thing I’m not clear on, the mechanical switch is attached to the original driver board, you can see it in the pic. I need to know first if I leave this and desolder the rest of the parts, will it function if I add another board. If so I’ll use Dr Jones’ Lumo35drv.

You might want to PM Dr Jones on question 2 as I’m not sure.

[Old-Lumens]

The switch should be an electronic switch and you would need to reuse it. It would need to be hooked to the DrJones driver. He should be able to explain it all to you. I would keep it on the board and just add wires from it to the DrJones driver. You should be able to put the DrJones driver flat on top of the old one, after you remove the components (except the switch).

[whokilledJR]

@Old-Lumens

The switch should be an electronic switch and you would need to reuse it. It would need to be hooked to the DrJones driver. He should be able to explain it all to you. I would keep it on the board and just add wires from it to the DrJones driver. You should be able to put the DrJones driver flat on top of the old one, after you remove the components (except the switch).

That is exactly of what I was thinking and hoping to get an answer on, thanks Old-Lumens.

[DrJones]

‘My’ drivers are just NANJG105Cs, but their MCU is reprogrammed with a custom firmware.
These are 17mm in diameter, have components on both sides and are 5mm in height without the contact spring (which is not needed in such a setup).

I modded my SmallSun ZY-T29 just as Old-Lumens described (I additionally removed the NANJG’s spring).

[cncyana]

@DrJones

‘My’ drivers are just NANJG105Cs, but their MCU is reprogrammed with a custom firmware.
These are 17mm in diameter, have components on both sides and are 5mm in height without the contact spring (which is not needed in such a setup).

I modded my SmallSun ZY-T29 just as Old-Lumens described (I additionally removed the NANJG’s spring).

Hi Dr Jones-

1) The pictures of your boards look like they have a spring in the middle- is it just a metal button for the positive battery contact?

2) If the wires from the e-switch are connected to the contact board, won’t the full current from the battery go through those wires to the e-switch?

3) Your boards max out at 3A. Can we increase the amps to 5-6amps by stacking boards?

4) Your lumo35drv default low mode is 25% power. How do make it lower to 1%? thanks.

[DrJones]

1) Just a battery contact spring, yes.

2) No, the switch is not in the mwin current’s path, its just connected to a pin of the MCU.

3) Yes, a maste-slave setup is possible.

4) I can adapt that before shipping the driver. lumo35drv is not ‘programmable’.

[cncyana]

Dr Jones - thank you very much. I appreciate it.

[cncyana]

The Maxflex driver is 0.90 inches which is very close to 22.5mm = 0.88 inches.
http://www.taskled.com/
Taskled drivers also have a good reputation at CPF.

Also there are drivers at LCK Ledstore” if you want to go cheaper.

Did you get the 21mm board yet? Did it fit or is it too loose?

[whokilledJR]

@cncyana

The Maxflex driver is 0.90 inches which is very close to 22.5mm = 0.88 inches.
http://www.taskled.com/
Taskled drivers also have a good reputation at CPF.

Also there are drivers at LCK Ledstore” if you want to go cheaper.

Did you get the 21mm board yet? Did it fit or is it too loose?

Thanks for the info Cncyana, I’ve bookmarked these stores as I like the driver options they have. I’m going to take some of the previous advice on this thread and strip the old driver board of all it’s components except for the switch and use it as a contact board. I’ve got the latest dmobydrv driver from Dr Jones on order. I haven’t received the other contact boards yet. I’ll update the thread with the new build along with some pictures.

[cncyana]

Can’t go wrong with Dr Jones boards!

When you modded your JM07 Pro:

1) Which Dr Jones board did you replace the original board with?
2) What diameter was the new board?
3) What diameter was the original board?

thanks

[whokilledJR]

@cncyana

Can’t go wrong with Dr Jones boards!

When you modded your JM07 Pro:

1) Which Dr Jones board did you replace the original board with?
2) What diameter was the new board?
3) What diameter was the original board?

thanks

I’m using the Dr Jones guppydrv with the JM07 pro, as far as I’m aware all of Dr Jones’ drivers utilise the Nanjg drivers which are 17mm in Diameter. The original JM07 driver is also a 17mm Nanjg driver and connected to a 20mm contact board.