disregard, comfy already addressed it 
ok guys thanks for the tips.
This was the main reason I've been avoiding the multi-mode SK-68 clones. Hmm...
i’m fairly new at this? i didnt even realize i had a next-mode-memory, lol
reading this, i went and tested… yep, THATS why i always have to click click click every time i use it.
rubbed some mechanical pencil on it, now it always fires up in high, and i can still change modes.
too cool… this was awesome.
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i’m gonna have to check some of the pther cheap lights… i have one of them set up as a cheap IR illuminator…
when the llight is invisible? its a little harder to figure out which mode you are in, lol… its hard to see whether i am in HIGH or LOW (blinky is easy to notice, lol) i always end up cycling thru modes 3 times to be sure…
this will prolly work on that driver too, heh heh
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this is awesome. thanks!
I’ve had these lights for a while, I thought they were just broken, never heard of next mode memory. The pencil trick didn’t work, don’t know why, but just knocked the capacitor off and I also have a light that comes on full beam every time. Great! I was going to modify my backup, but I’ll leave it, as if I do I just know I’ll need the SOS mode up in the Scottish mountains.
Thanks alot for this!
Thanks for this guys, I tried it on 2 of the same lights. One now has reset to High mode in 1 second and the other takes 4 seconds.
If it has a glossy plastic/epoxy surface, it's very hard to mark with a pencil. (Try writing on the front of a credit card.) You might scruff it up a bit with fine sandpaper, or just solder a resistor on top of it. I think suggested values are in the thread somewhere.
And welcome to BLF!
I have a TrustFire XM-L T6 flashlight I just got and it has the 5 mode issue. I looked at the circuit board without pulling it all apart yet and saw it has two capacitors side by side. I have two questions about it.
1. Would it hurt anything to try each capacitor one at a time to see if that worked? I am assuming one helps regulate power to the LEDs and the other is memory but not sure if any damage would be caused by shorting out the wrong one.
2. It’s a shot in the dark but, can anyone tell which one to use from the picture? or has this same light and knows which one of these is the memory capacitor?
Use a conductor to short the capacitors one at a time, testing the light after each short to see if it goes back to high. If it does, you know you’ve got the right one. That’s I usually find out if there are more than one.
What 5 mode issue are you talking about? Also is this light powered by more than one (probably 18650 cell) battery? To me it looks like it should be.
From the pictures I would say both capacitors are connected in parallel and has the first function you have exposed - ie. regulation of the power to the led preventing flickering. It would be nice to see all the elements under the coil. Just bent it up and make few sharp pictures from difernet angle so that markings on the elements could be seen.
I think he wants to change it to 1 mode only!
Thank you everyone for all your help! I got it fixed by using a pencil on the bottom of the two. Now it forgets which mode it is in. That was the “issue” I was having. Should have been more precise in my language. I was concerned about taking it apart at first because the solder was pretty shoddy. Someone left dripped solder on the back of the board and the copper coil on top was only held in place by the pressure of it being bent into place. It’s amazing it ever worked in the first place.
Thank you again! Glad to have a light I can actually take on a show and use.
Howdy,
I’m having trouble getting my light to work with this tutorial. I’ve tried shorting out the capacitors (C1 and C2) separately and together and have not had any luck. I’m not a big fan of this next mode memory function, and would really like to get rid of it! Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!
Ian
Hm, interesting driver! From what light is it?
BTW, You didn’t say how did you tried shorting capacitors but it you did a pencil trick, you should always clean/scrape a thinned contacts on capacitors because they are often covered by flux from soldering, scrape the contacts with exacto knife, screwdriver or something similar and then try pencil trick.
But it may also be that those capacitors are not used as for memory store function because your driver has Atmel218 24C02 chip which is EEPROM (memory chip) it is possible that next mode memory is actually programmed as normal UI function… More about Atmel 218 here.
Thanks for the quick reply Sirius! The light is one of these Amazon.com in 12 XM-L configuration. I used a paperclip to short out the capacitors, so I’m sure that’s not the problem.
Thanks for sharing the PDF! I’m pretty techy, but it is a little over my pay rate. Any idea if there’s a simple way to get rid of last mode memory on these? My guess is not without a new driver… If so, I am not able to find a driver that will output 7v @ 8A like the current one is doing.
Cheers,
Ian
If you let your light switched off for a couple of hours or a day, does it then still starts in next mode?
Only if it starts in high after a longer time it is possible to use this trick to reduce the time with a pencil trace…
I see. It always starts in the next mode no matter how long I wait, so I suppose this means I need to go back to the drawing board!
I can’t think of any other use for that flash rom chip for a flashlight - other than keeping the memory mode. Therefore the capacitor discharge won’t do anything other than messing the circuit.
Judging from the picture I think your FET is PNP based. So, not easy to pluck in master controller from a NANJG, for example.
That leaves full driver swap. Sorry. I know it’s ridiculous for a $60 light to get crappy programming like next-mode memory, especially with all the investment on the hardware.
Thanks Pulsar! It seems that everyone has the same general consesus. The driver in the light is outputting 6.9v @ 8A. Does anyone know of ANY driver anywhere that can accomplish something like that? The input is 3S 26650’s, so 9-12.6v.
Thanks so much for all the help!
Does anyone know if this method can be applied to Supfire F5 ?
Edit : problem solved. It works. See this thread