Attention! Solution for most of those next mode memory drivers!

Hi, yesterday I’ve read the A60 topic and found a post from viffer750 that contains info about adding resistor to get rid of that next mode memory. I found appearance of chip from the photo to be very similar to CAB1 (CAB1X and CAB1T) chip that is used by UltraOK ZS-2 and also by my second similar driver that i bought. I did some testing and figured out that this mod is working for all (both of mine) drivers with this chip. Just add a 1MOhm resistor between the middle leg on one side of CAB1 chip and Batt-*. I’m not sure right now, but I think that on my second driver I had to use 100kOhm resistor, so it may vary. Here is the photo of my driver, you can find viffer750’s driver in the A60 topic.

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Red pin is connected through the resistor to Batt-.

I would like to offer a couple of advice for those attempting this mod.

The purpose of this mod is to add another path of electricity so that the capacitor will be able to discharge, thus forgetting the memory state. However, keep in mind that depending on the driver, this electrical path is also possibly directly linked to battery. In other word, chances are a short of this mod could be a direct short on your Li-Ion Battery. Be very careful on your soldering.

Second thing to know, this mod could sap usable current all the time during use, hence the high resistance requirement to make the drain negligible. In case the capacitor is placed parallel, one million ohm parallel to 4.2V source means 4.2 microAmp (uA), which is OK, almost nothing. But as you drop the resistance (e.g to make memory forget faster), you also increase the wasted current.

Just thought everybody needs to know this before trying it out.

I’m not sure if it is for discharging the capacitor as it would act different when there is no resistor added. I mean, the capacitor would discharge itself in time but the mode will be remembered for a lifetime without the resistor in real life it seems. I think that it is only for setting some kind of comparative voltage to the IC? I can’t tell for sure as there is no datasheet. Also if you connect the resistor directly to li-ion, there would be almost no current flowing through the resistor as you said and even with the 1MOhm the time is very short so I don’t think there would be need to use lower value.

Your photo shows your resistor soldered to one end of C2. that’s a capacitor and you just created a (very high resistance) current path to whatever the middle leg is of that CAB1T chip. Normally that would tend to bleed off charge…

Just out of curiosity, what’s the “catalog name” of the chip marked CAB1T?

I would LOVE to see the datasheet!

Sure, your explanation is right but the problem is that if it was there because of the capacitor, it would work the same without the added resistor, but the time needed to clear memory would be a bit longer. In a real life it doesn’t clear the memory without the resistor. I don’t have the datasheet.

To all,

Please accept my apologies for being hasty. I just looked back at the actual photograph posted and noticed: That is NOT a “CAB1*” chip, is it? Basically I just proved why everyone else insists on posting photographs. Lovely.

As embarrassed as I am over the rest of my mess, my comment was essentially correct, in that the resistor creates a path for discharging C2, but WHAT are you connecting TO?

And I still need to know what a “CAB1T” is, but that’s for another thread…

Ok, I did some testing and realized that it is connected to C3 capacitor that is also connected to that leg of CAB1* chip. It couldn’t discharge the C2 capacitor because it is connected to grounded leg of it as you can see. Maybe I will try to scetch a schematic diagram of the driver. I also have one driver without the modes and there is just resistor soldered instead of the CAB1* chip - it is obvious that the CAB1* is microcontroller and the C3 is there to hold a power for it.

It's a "next mode" driver from C8, but soldering some resistor to capacitor (two red circles)

300Kohm -> 4 seconds memory

220Kohm -> 3 seconds

68Kohm -> about 2 seconds or less...

Anybody knows if a similar mod can be performed on the EAST-92 driver (stock driver of HD2010) to get rid of the next mod memory?

My HD2010 has soo long memory that it's next mode memory for more than 2 minutes! It was not that long when new, so maybe the resistor that has to wipe the memory went weird and it's resistance has increased? Possible? How to identify which one could it be?

Pic from JohnnyMac review

it appears to have 4 resistors and one capacitor.

R2 is very close to the capacitor. If the capacitor is for the memory, wonder if that R2 is the right one to mod...

You can test that easily:

- you will need a battery with wires attached (or in battery holder) so you could connect it to a driver quickly without having to reassemble the flashlight.

- then cycle through modes and leave the flashlight in strobo (anything except SOS mode)

- disconnect the battery

- take a short wire like paper clip (which you, ofcourse prepared prior to experiment ) and short circuit that capacitor, you can do that 2-3 times just to be sure

- then again connect the battery and inspect in which mode will flashlight start :) it should be HIGH, if that is the case you can add resistor on top of the capacitor and make it discharge faster (forget mode faster)

*(try to do this experiment as fast as you can, if you can do it in less than 10 second that would be great)

I don't have this driver and therefore I cannot tell you if changing R2 would do the same thing.

Thanks, will try this evening!

I was thinking to change the resistor, but adding one on top of the capacitor should be even easier.

Will post results.

I’d say that “R2” is a diode, not a resistor…

This evening I was willing to mod the driver, plugged in the soldering iron and just in the meantime took a good magnifiing lens and a small flashlight to look at those tiny components.

R2 looks like has no numbers at all printed on it when looking by bare eyes, but upon closer inspection leaning the light side to side, I was able to see some very small lettering, looks like fine carving, not painted. There's a line side to side toward one leg, and "4S" in the middle. This lead me to think DrJones was right and that R2 actually is a diode.

(why then printing R for the diode? R for resistors, C for capacitors, D for diodes, S for schottky, no? Buh...)

Anyway, just for testing, removing that R2 diode results in disabling the modes, and light works in low only. Not very useful.

Going to add a resistor on top of the capacitor now (wish me all good, I'd never ever soldered something so tiny before!)


I got it!

Soldered a 1912 (19K, correct?) resistor on top of C1. It's the only resistor above 1K I got around, removed from a dead nanjg105.

I got lucky and now the East92 has a super-short memory wipe: quickly tap with the finger in less than half second, and it changes modes. Wait just a little bit more, less than 1 second, and it's always on high!

I love it now! So much that the planned driver swap with a nanjg (ready in case I fu**ed the east92) is not a priority anymore.

And the satisfaction of having soldered those damn tiny components is a great reward too. You should have seen (and heard...) me when in the process of placing the resistor in the right spot, it suddenly jumped off the board falling on the floor, literally covered with metal shavings and plastic dust (it's the same place I also have maintenance for RC models)

10 funny minutes spent in close examination of any dust with flashlight and tweezers...

Well done Rockspider. Perseverance has paid off. Your floor sounds a little like mine. Do you think you would have a go at the low voltage drivers I have tested with next mode memory?

MrsDNF I answered to you on the other thread

I'd have a go!

any ideas how to remove the next mode memory from this driver? :

Very similar (if not identical) to the driver in the SkyEye F13. See this post from relic38. Place said resistor over said capacitor.


yeap its the same ,thank you.

and when i connected the 2 dots in the 0R i now have a 5 mode driver.

Help needed for this driver. :)