Edit 2: SOLVED. RMM was sure the problem was a short, either the FET output to batt- or LED- to batt- but I wasn’t coming up with anything that had continuity anywhere it shouldn’t so finally I gave up and tore the whole thing back down, used solder wick to remove all solder and started fresh (I also shortened wires and moved a few grounds). I never did find a short but it fixed it.
Edit: please see post #5 for a video explaining/showing the exact issue.
I built a ATtiny13A controlled Securitying SRK using the advanced momentary driver from RMM. I wired it up according to his instructions which also went along with post #44in this thread. I have verified all solder joints are good and operation is correct. The only problem is when in Off the LED’s are still dimly lit. The off position is still there because there is now 8 levels instead of the normal 7 levels + off.
I built this yesterday, it worked fine last night. Nothing had changed today (I left batteries disconnected over night) but after leavin it on a few minutes (on different levels, not a few minutes on turbo or anything) it failed to shut off. Since then I have tried removing the cap all together as well as going up to a 220uf cap and none of those things effected it.
Also should mention, I’ve tried using a R050 resistor but it didn’t help.
My driver (note the driver came from RMM on the BLF17DD)
This is a video I took of the light in “off”. Also worth mentioning, at this point the switch had not been clicked after screwing the battery tube on. It was off for under a minute before this started.
Edited to add: I have done some further investigation- the light does this flashing when it’s supposed to be off even with the FET output wire disconnected. I’m going to improve the FET’s ground leg ground now. Could this be a bad FET?
Try removing the reflector and see if it makes any difference. I have had a SRK do exactly the same staying on and also sometimes phantom flashes. Wasn’t the driver but the reflector shorting out
I have got the issue isolated to something with the grounding of the head. Here is a video that explains where I am at now.
Now I purchased my pre-programmed driver from RMM but from what I understand this is phase correct PWM.
I am almost positive this is a ground issue and not a driver issue- it continues to do it without the FET output hooked up and it also does it without the switch even hooked up at all.
watching this thread, as I also have the same problem with my no name SRK variant.
But mine is slightly different, the LEDs are just dim and can’t turn ON or OFF nor change modes :_(
A Qlite is no longer a Qlite after it's been reflashed with some other firmware - a Qlite is just a Nanjg 105C with Qlite firmware on it. Exactly which firmware is it using?
Always, always, always ALWAYS! test something like this out on the bench in open air first, with just a battery, the driver, and a LED. Then if it behaves differently after it's installed you will know that any change is something to do with being installed inside the light and not the driver itself.
Sorry, guess technically it should be “ATtiny13A controlled FET SRK” but it got you in my thread huh. Lol
As for the FW, Again I purchased it from RMM but its Johnny C’s advanced momentary FW with RMM’s “SRK special”.
Also it is working correctly on the bench. It doesn’t have the problem till I install it in the light (which is shown by me grounding the head with the probe to simulate assembly).
As of right now the light is sitting partially assembled (driver installed but not reflector/lens) and not doing it but I’ll have to take it back apart again to install the reflector so who knows.
I don't put them together the way you're describing, I build the plate+LEDs+reflector, and test it like that before installing it as one single unit.
I use a CR123 on each LED's +/-, then (the important part), put the cell's negative against the plate and each LED's positive lead to the cell. No light means no short on the negative side. Reverse it, put the cell's positive to the plate, and each LED's negative to the cell, no light means no short on the positive side. Then you know it'll still be OK after it's screwed into the light.
I sit the reflector assembly face down with the wires sticking straight up, then lower the head over it, and then lift up on the wires until the threads can be started. Then I screw it in fully with circlip pliers in the wire holes (carefully). I never separate the reflector from the plate while it's still in the light.
I got it figured out I got it fixed, still not exactly sure where the problem was. I unsoldered everything, wicked off the solder and started fresh. It’s working correct and I think it looks much cleaner too, not that it matters in the end since its inside the light anyhow but it makes me happy. Thanks guys, especially Richard, I literally couldn’t do it without his shop.