Btw, Amsterdam tapwater has a conductivity of 550 microSiemens/cm, that is a resistance of 2kOhm/cm, the AAA is 4.4 cm long so from minus to pluspole is 8.8 kOhm, with 1.5 V that produces a current of 0.17 mA, draining the battery in 220 days.
So if there is no other route for a short than through the water, the battery draining by powering the electronics and led will be 50 times as fast as by the conductivity of the water.
Edit: this is not correct of course, the batt+ and batt- are much closer together on the driver, maybe even a single mm. In that case the battery already drains in 5 days through the conductivity of water, comparable to the runtime of the led.
Hey, no messing with our Vaalserberg, have you ever cycled the full 322 meters up there?, this is a proper dutch mountain. And the fact that we have to share the Vaalserberg with 2 other countries does not make us less proud of it.
I can’t watch the video where I am, but I suspect the tap water is becoming more conductive as the test continues due to some metal electrolyzing into the water and onto other components and parts. If true, it might accelerate until you get failure (sooner than expected).
Yep, you seem correct , it is in there for 3 hours and more and more brown stuff is forming, it actually floats up and forms a brown layer near the surface. Works quite nicely as a warm filter, I measure 3300K when measured from staight above the cilinder . I better stop the experiment now before everything is corroded away. So it was not any of the predicted reasons, drained battery or failing electronics or the battery contact point, that stops the experiment but corrosion did it :student:
Thank you for the discussion, you induced some quite fun testing So without potting, after swapping batteries in that river, soaking the inside of your light, you will have another couple of hours of light but eventually you need to open up the flashlight and let it dry. A well-sealing potting should help preventing this.
With much white stuff already gone I spend some time clearing away more of it so I can have a look at the components and circuitry. I see a coil, a sot23-5 chip marked 5033 or S033 or 3033, a diode marked SL, two caps and a 22 Ohm resistor.
There seems no picture at all on the internet of the fenix E01 driver but I found a detail of a pic from CPF (link) that shows the circuit board with components removed and it looks like the C01 driver has the exact same layout as the E01 board.
Edit: the C01 board seems to have an extra capacitor, that little one.
Djozz, don’t give up so soon. Flashaholics tend to use absolute numbers. Wanna try relative numbers?
If djozz climbs the Vaalser berg, he has to ascend 322 - (–3) = 325 meter from his home.
If joechina climbs his 1000 metres, he has to ascend 1000 - 600 = 400 meter. That’s only 23% more.
, it is in there for 3 hours and more and more brown stuff is forming, it actually floats up and forms a brown layer near the surface. Works quite nicely as a warm filter, I measure 3300K when measured from staight above the cilinder 
