Banggood BTU Shocker - need your opinions of this buy!

[TL;DR - just start reading at the “~”]

[Note: pics of light and mentioned faults coming after I get home. I hope to get some beamshots in as well sometime. I know the BTU has been reviewed to death, but it’s my first expensive light and I’m excited!]

Hello BLFers,

Recently I’ve ponied up the cash for the legendary BTU shocker! I used a coupon posted in our Deals area, and snagged it for $90 USD, shipped. Below are my experiences and thoughts on my purchase.

Before buying, I read every major review on the light. I read mod threads. I read all posts on original announcement thread. I was quickly convinced that this light would be the perfect throw light for the collection.

I read about it’s size, seen photos and seen videos. But it was still a Shocker when I actually opened the box and first held the light. The thing is HUGE! It makes my SRK look like a toy now, it’s hard to take it seriously after seeing the BTU. As for weight, I find it acceptable. Would I go hiking with it? No. (who uses a throw-y light for hiking anyways…). Would I be able to manage it on 30/45 minute walk? Definitely. It’s not THAT bad. And I’m a small, weak guy.

The light came very very very well packaged. Best yet. It came in an envelope (don’t remember if bubble wrapped or not). Inside the envelope was a (very large) box, wrapped in plenty of foam padding. The box itself had that plastic foamy material we’re all used to with Chinese light boxes, with a cutout for the SRK and 3 batteries. Again, the fit was very snug and light very safe. I’d have no problem with the light being shipped in the box alone, thought the box would likely get damaged.

The light itself was in very good condition. One part of the flat side of the reflector had a small non-shiny (possibly chipped) bit, though this did not concern me as it was right near the edge of the glass, therefore not causing any alterations in the beam.

I had the same issues others had with the battery carrier. I used the electrical tape hack to keep batteries in place better, and that seemed to fix issues I was having. Banggood also was kind enough to solder copper disks to the positive end of each slot, so that magnets are not required for unprotected batteries. Kudos for that!

Now for the real problems (and where I require your input):

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The light came with the following two issues:
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First issue: One of my LEDs has a significantly different tint than the other 2. The odd-one-out seems to be a NW tint, while the others are CW. The tint difference is very visible, and, to be honest, quite ugly! I have emailed BG about this, and am hoping they either offer me a replacement LED I can change myself, or a discount on the light, so that I may purchase the LED I want.

Should I spend the extra $$ on some XM-L2’s on Noctigons if I am swapping a LED anyways? Is the extra work worth the result? I am planning to add thicker silicone wires, as well as adding copper braid to the springs.

Second issue: The driver came with a DRY driver instead of the BTU driver! “DRY” was written on the side of the box, and timeout for turbo also happens around the 90 second mark (vs 3 minutes for the BTU driver). I asked BG for BTU driver if available. Again, is it worth the hassle of switching? I was going to leave the light stock, but seems that won’t be possible anymore.

Overall, I’m still happy with the light. BG seems a bit slow to respond, but I’ve had good experiences with them in the past. I’m hoping I’ll be compensated in some way for their mistake.

PS: Shipping & handling time was excellent. I ordered it May 24th (Saturday), it was shipped on the 26th, and it arrived June 6th. Value was declared to be $10-20 IIRC.

Switch to noctigons. You should be seeing something like 4.5A per emitter with the DRY and good cells, copper mcpcb will be optimal.

They have all been shipping with the DRY driver since around December, I don't think the BTU driver is still available.

The copper disc on the + ends have always been there in the carrier - since day one. Nothing BG did.

Oh boy - the odd tint is weird. You can usually tell a 3C tint by looking at the LED's carefully. A 3C will have a darker yellow color than a 1A. I really don't like DRY drivers - some folks do like them though. I think it's bad news to have a DRY: PIA turbo timeout, low PWM hertz, not so great amps as you might expect.

This isn't surprising bout the tint - I've seen many quality problems in the assembling, pretty much every light I've gotten - bout 15. BG lists the light with the DRY driver, so not sure what you can do there. Of course there are a few mod options. See here and here.

I just checked BG listing, and the BTU is, indeed, listed as using the DRY driver. $90 is still a solid deal, so not too worried about that.

I’ve seen your BTU mod threads already, Tom, but the problem is I don’t know how far to take it! The IOS driver is also hard to source. How much current can be pushed through the DRY driver?

So far, think I maybe go with Sinkpads, XM-L2s, arctic silver, copper braid and silicone wires. It also seems to be a lot cheaper to reflow the XM-L2s myself, so that’s something new to learn. I’m okay with most mods on the electrical side, though not so much on the mechanical.

Thanks for your help!

The lck version of the old IOS driver.

The LCK-LED is the one I'm using now. But if I were to do this again from scratch, I'd research Richard's method of using a BLFDD driver with the zener mod. This driver is potentially much better with custom mode configurations and high PWM rates.

Here are the pics:

Tint issue:

The bad (warm) LED:

Note that the warm LED also seems to be slightly damaged. It has marks that look as if someone poked it with an xacto knife.

I ever have a flashlight with the “dark shadow” within the hotspot too. Did a quick check, but there was any residue on the LED itself… What could be the problem? Damaged LED or reflector placement?

I think pretty much every LED does that, but because the reflectors are so large, it is more visible on the BTU. 1 meter away, the spots are no longer visible on low mode, let alone on medium or high. Here is a pic of reflector placement. It looks fairly well-centred to me.

What I’m more upset about is the difference in tint! It looks quite ugly to me, having one odd yellow LED in a background of white/blue.

I've seen this when the silicone separated from the phosphor - de-domed itself, but I don't think the dome was truly physically off the LED. You would get the tint you are seeing with it de-domed. On yours, the silicone looks to be there, but with that perceived damage, it may be the dedome effect.

Also the black hole, or dark shaded area in the center under 1 meter is typical of de-domed emitters.

Thanks a lot for the info Tom. A small update for this week:

I received 2 replacement LEDs from Banggood early this week. S&H time was under 3 weeks, and they’re also XM-L2’s, so I am very pleased with Banggood service thus far.

They came at a good time, as one of the ‘good’ LEDs on my BTU decided to die last weekend. I tried some 25A cells in the light, and the LED died after a few seconds of use. Not sure what happened there - probably just bad luck/chance.

Anyhow, I replaced the LED, and now have even more respect for you all…it was a real pain in the backside! Getting alignment and heatsinking right (keeping pad down with Arctic Silver is not easy - need some loctite!). Shielding the LED solder points from the metal reflector was also a test of patience.

I also beefed up the wiring with some thicker silicone wire, which made twisting the driver back in quite a bit harder. For a small LED swap, I definitely was not expecting to spend more than 30 min on the job. I think I got close to 2 hours!

Anyhow, I’m currently looking for Sinkpads so I can get some good heatsinking and larger contact point for the LEDs. Could be that overheating caused my premature LED failure.

Yes - sooo many things can go wrong it's not easy for sure. Just upgrading wires can have all these side effects, as you've seen. Shockers are bad in that the reflector backside is so flat - no room for higher solder joints. That's why I dremel out material from the backside and use kapton tape to isolate the reflector.

These Shocker mods take hours and hours for me, even considering I've done quite a few but I'm always learning, doing a little better each time.