FWIW, I tried legoing the anodized and bare versions today. The bare ones were recent, of course, and the anodized ones were from the very first batch.
Everything lego’d fine except the bezels. The bare bezel didn’t work on an anodized head, because the bare threads were too big in diameter and slipped easily over the anodized pill without any need to twist or screw it together. The anodized bezel worked on a bare head though.
That’s a good close shot of the difference in the clips. Smaller nubs, slightly larger opening at the bend and difference in the bends at the start of the clip.
I currently have one bare light, a modded Minimag that I like quite a bit because it doesn’t show the nicks that it gets nearly as much as any of the black ano lights I have. All of my EDC stuff gets knocked about in glove boxes and pockets so I went with this option instead of the black on this GB.
LOL. I have no idea. It’s a little container labeled “polishing compound” that came in a Dremel assortment I have. It looks like red clay. It’s all I had on hand, but I’m happy with the result.
Can anyone tell me the easiest way to get a corroded fingerprint off my bare A6, short of breaking out a rotary tool? Looks like a poor slave to communism who wasn’t wearing gloves, and had some kind of noxious chemical on his hand, and left a fingerprint corroded into a smooth spot. There are a few other corrosion spots (small white patches). I’ve tried a paper towel and microfiber cloth. Microfiber worked better, but it’s still there.
Overall feel & look on the Bare was a little rougher than expected, and I think a velvet protective carry bag would’ve been more useful & less wasteful than a gift box, but I’m REALLY happy about these lights. So useful. I read a changelog of TK’s firmware, and only then realized how much work she put into tweaking what she had to work with. The word would be “Passion”, the kind of continuous improvement to squeeze as much goodness out of something as is physically possible. ToyKeeper did for flashlight firmware kind of what RockBox did for otherwise-mundane MP3 players. It shows that the full potential of hardware is almost never exploited by the manufacturer.
Interesting, in doing spring bypasses and re-assembling the bare A6, the centering disc messed up the XP-L 3D emitter. So I tried something, I put an Nichia 219C in it. I found out that a single 219C does not like the top high discharge cells! Up towards 9 Amp drain on a 30Q and the Nichia changed colors, got VERY hot and I turned it off. A Panasonic PD works ok with it, but it’s low Vf will draw entirely too much current from a top cell.
The color and CRI is great, so this is a very good candidate for a BD or merely a B cell, top capacity with a limitation on current. (Maybe the 20ga wires are overkill now as well)
Got my 3D today which is pretty quick considering my will to resist only failed me on the 28th. 7 modes from moon to high with nice spacing, .2mA up to 3.3A on an LG BE 4.35V cell. Excellent work ToyKeeper. Fwiw because of the non anodized threads it works with the tube reversed as a cap light.
That is awesome, I mean not for making a usable light, but the low forward voltage of the 219C. I am looking forward to some of them myself sometime soon…