Bare BLF A6 Interest List (coupon now public)

BLF Special Edition Products
262

I have the bare version, and apparently a black ‘gen2’ version (purchased after the first sellout).
FWIW, the threads are compatible between heads (metal reflector/lens holder piece). The anodized ‘head’ on the bare ‘pill’ is a little more wobbly going on (threads looser), but it still tightens up fine at the end. The bare ‘head’ on the anodized ‘pill’ felt pretty normal.

Bump on any stupid-easy ways to remove white corrosion splotches (without special equipment/products)… Am I the only one with corrosion spots?

263

No, I think it may be common since they have no anodizing or clear coat. Any metal polish should do unless it’s etched In which case it might need 0000 steel wool first

264

brjones, the best thing you do is simply use the light. Forget about any stains or splotches, regular use will give it a series of small scratches and blemishes that will hide any other issue. Being bare aluminum it’s considerably softer than anodized aluminum, it’ll scratch up with very light surface scratches quite easily, even from a paper towel. So just use it, or only look at it at night. :wink:

265

I have a bare mini mag that’s decades old. It has no corrosion and still looks fine. Probably used more than any of my other lights—carried on outings many times. It’s not severely scratched, and any slight scratches, to me make the light more of a souvenir (“character”), bearing a representation of the things I’ve done/places I’ve gone.

I have a ~2-year-old bare SK68 (my favorite SK68, BTW), and even its finish or surface is much better than the bare A6. I’m not complaining, but it’s relevant to note. In fact, actually the surface of my bare SK68 is quite nice for what it is.

Neither of the above lights have corrosion spots. At all. Considering the SK68 was 5-6 bucks shipped from China, I know that having a decent finish is not a big matter of cost. I strongly doubt either have clearcoats. I’ve never even heard of clearcoats on aluminum until this thread. I have a number of other bare aluminum things. Most do not have corrosion, but over the years, it can develop in spots. However, my A6 came this way, and to me it is apparent this was caused by chemicals of some type, which carelessly came into contact with the light. That can be avoided. And that poor person in China should be wearing gloves anyway. I don’t know what could be on a worker’s skin at that shop which could leave a corrosion mark of a fingerprint, but it’s a little disturbing.

DB Custom I understand your point of view and now it sounds like a bigger deal than it is, but if someone asks in a forum how to remove corrosion, the right answer isn’t really to offer them help with their psychology. Ok all of us flashaholics are a little out on a limb anyway, right?

Rufus’s answer is helpful, thank you. I wanted to avoid what he suggested as I’d have to buy materials to do so, and it’s probably not a big deal enough deal for me. The marks are slight, but if there was something easy I could do, I wanted to do it. That’s what we do in this forum. We improve/correct/fix things, and compare notes. Since I haven’t seen anyone mention this yet, that’s what this forum and thread are for. I still prefer the bare one over my anodized, except there’s no lockout function, naturally. I may ultimately break out the rotary tool and polish, but I probably have better things to do. I’m not much into looks, but I think the bare A6 can clean up nice and feel and look nicer than it comes.

266

to clarify, you DID ask for stupid easy. :wink:

I wanted to recommend a sulfuric acid solution bath or some of the other ways this can be handled but of course I don’t know your capabilities, so I hesitated to do so. Since it’s most likely not “corrosion” in the first place, but a chemical stain, the methods to remove it could be drastic. It might actually just be thermal coupound, so disassemble the light completely, give it a nice bath in a warm soapy water and see what you have after that.

Mother’s Billet Aluminum polish is the way I’d go at it first, the stuff is a miracle worker on aluminum. Me? I’m probably mount the light on a rubber sanding arbor and then mount the arbor in my cordless drill, spin it up and use some 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit then the mothers and make it a mirror finish. And then the first few times it is carried the surface scratches will do to it what I recommended in the first place.

Psychology always comes into play, like it or not. Polish it up and admire it on the shelf, use it and only look at it’s output… however you go about it, just have fun with it and I hope it does a good job for you.

Best of luck…

267

Can I have the code as well? Thanks!

268

Could I also get the code please, if possible.

269

Thanks. :slight_smile: It’s funny you mention that, since I still have RockBox on my old music player. I even made a theme for it:

270

This stuff works wonders on bare aluminum:
”
“:Robot or human?

Great on copper too :wink:

271

I ordered this light last week and was notified by Bangood that it was out of stock until Oct 19. I don’t have any 18640 batteries though. I was thinking of adding a couple from Bangood or buying from Battery Junction. Lots of brands to choose from. Recommendations on best choices please. I m relatively new to lights. Thanks. Jerry

272

These are probably the best you can get for the BLF A6:

MtnElectronics and Illumn are the best sources for these things in the US.

273

See discussion: How about best 18650 bang for the buck

Also reference document: Battery test-review 18650 summary

For the BLF A6 Special Edition, you probably will want a high drain battery to maximize the output. I would suggest picking up the Samsung 18650-30Q 3000mAh INR Li-ion Battery or Keeppower IMR 18650 3200mAh Battery. If you need a charger, I’d suggest the Nitecore D2 Digicharger.

274

I’ve only used protected cells in other sizes in the past and have not used 18650 before. I’m concerned about the safety of unprotected cells, after reading several threads here.
Are the Samsung unprotected safe with proper use? Samsung also
offers a 18650 protected. Better choice given my concern although less performance? Any opinions on this new one: Keeppower 18650 3500mAh (Black) 2015? Thanks. Jerry

275

Yes, key words: “Proper use” …Also the BLF A6 has some built in features for battery safety:

(Quote by TK from this post on the A6 thread): https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/31076?page=77#comment-785731

This may be similar or in fact may be the same cell, I believe it is currently the highest drain/highest capacity protected 18650 available:

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=289

Probably your best choice if you’re not willing to run with the unprotected 30Q

276

i received mine today, ordered as soon as i got the code IIRC. I like the 3D tint, not sure how i like it compared to the 5A i already have, both seem to be nice tints :bigsmile:

277

Hopefully the quality control is better on the bare A6 than the anodized. I like everything about my black 3D A6 but reports of on-going manufacturing gaffs has me waiting on the sidelines. ToyKeeper’s UI and 3D tint is a winner. Thanks to all!

278

I got my bare 3D A6 today, but unfortunately it has the purple AR lens like the normal BLF A6. Otherwise it is in good condition.

It was reported by several members that the bare had no AR lens but at least my had the purple AR lens.

The stock A6 lens is 20.50mm x 1.5mm, i have ordered a plain glass one from kaidomain that is 20mm x 1mm i hope it fits, if anyone know about a lens that is closer in size and non AR please let me know :slight_smile:

279

Cajampa:

Can you tell us more about the quality of the build? Any problems with:

- Reflector cleanliness

- Centered LED

- Thickness of body tube

- Quality of bare finish

- Springs

  • O-rings

BTW, if the 20mm x 1mm lens doesn’t fit, you might trying removing the AR coating from the original lens. There are a lot of articles on the internet on how to do this … trial and error process to find a solution that works.

280

Ok,

The reflector was clean, but the glass was filthy they need to start using gloves assembling these because there was plenty of finger prints all over the body, but not the kind that couldn’t be wiped of though :).

The led’s was centered but the led plastic distance thingy was not, but that is just how these lights are if you close the head completely it gets a little of center twisted looking, but it is just to unscrew the bezel a tiny bit and it will center itself and look better, it doesn’t hurt function though and it is purely cosmetic.

The o-ring was on top of the glass where it should unlike my anodized first batch 3D BLF A6, at least i think it was there stock, i didn’t notice it before i had disassembled the head so there is as tiny chance i am mistaken, some of the other members with the bare A6 can hopefully confirm if they have fixed the o ring placement on there’s or not.

The tube walls look very nicely centered and i can’t by eye see any problem with them, unlike my first batch anodized A6 that was very noticeable off center, but it really don’t effect function so i am not bothered by it.

The springs look fine.

Quality of the bare finish, is not pristine there are some marks and scratches here and there, BUT remember there are a reason most flashlights are anodized. Aluminium are a very soft metal when untreated so the scratches it has now is just the start, if i am going to use this often it will very soon have many many more :wink:

Any i really don’t care if there already are or will pick up scratches because i use flashlights in the dark :stuck_out_tongue: if i wanted a shelf queen i would polish it (i might still do that just for fun ;)) or pick a Ti o SS light that don’t scratch that easy in use.

The only thing i was disappointed in was that they had screwed up the knurling on the tube, the last few lines where just messed up and it looked like some trainee’s first tube of something, but i am not overly concerned because i will use the shorty bare tube anyway :wink:

EDIT
Yes i know there are many articles about how to remove AR online but most seem to use crazy nasty :Sp fluoride acid based compounds, but you are right someday i will try out some of the less hazardous ways to remove AR.
Or just finally get some glass in the right thickness and start cutting my own lenses :wink:

281

Cajampa:

Thank you! Seems like there have been small improvements, but QC could still stand some improvement. :ghost: