How bout send me the funds back via FF, and I’ll resend funds with goods & services. Was trying to do you a favor paying the pp fees. Was my own worst enemy
I am going to sign up at shipstation and see if that works for me before going that route. :+1:
Same here. Hoop, if this ends up being the way you want to go, let me know.
Some Fine Jewlery Sir,
Thank you
I find it simply amazing that such a base item can be so beautiful…
Forgot the brass buttons in pics. Lil Gems on their own.
Been waiting for these and have the rest of the parts to build. But I don’t want to hide them inside a light just yet.
As seen in 2nd pic, the reflection shows how flat the head is. Nothing to deburr at all. Build and GO.
Gorgeous. I keep checking the mail box as I know that they will be here soon.
I agree it is a shame to hide them in a light. We need a polycarbonate S2+ To show off these beauties.
Bob
That’s exactly what I am going to try, a polycarbonate tube light just for one of these pills. I bought two with that in mind. 
I know I won’t be able to make it a monster but there are nice alternatives to that, namely a high CRI Nichia light or a UV light for checking bills and such. Either way, I think it’d be awesome to be able to see this beautiful “light engine” inside hard at work.
Awesome. I can’t wait to see it. Inside and out. 
Anyone else having a hard time getting this pill to thread into the head? I have no issues getting the stock brass pill in and out, but I can’t get the copper pill to thread more than an eighth of a turn. I am reluctant to put any force on it because of potential cross threading. Stock pill goes in smooth as butter, red S2+ from MTN electronics. Threads look alright on both pills and inside the head.
On the s2+’s I have, some of them had gunk in the threads and I had to clean them with warm water and a toothbrush. Try that and see if that works. If that doesn’t work, maybe I had too much faith in the consistency of these lights. On my examples, the brass pills have tons of clearance/slop, but I have found the heads to be very consistent.
No dice. I’ve tried cleaning and lubricating both the head and the pill and it goes in about an eighth of a turn and stops dead. Doesn’t feel gritty, just feels like it’s either cross threaded or the wrong thread. I’ll pick up another S2+ from MTN and see if it works, I’ll update later. For what it’s worth, the stock brass pill fits with very little slop.
[edit] Maybe these pictures will help elucidate the problem that’s occurring. It looks like the threads are slightly different. I could just be ignorant of the finer points of screw threads, though.
I just took the time to test fit my 3 heatsinks received.
I have Four S2+ empty hosts, 2X Black and 2X Grey.
I completely screwed in all 3 spacers into the heads of all 4 hosts. That makes 12 possible combinations and all fit and bottomed out and backed out without issue.
This is a very good fit which in turn has more surface area contacting at once. When the heatsink threaded below the hosts head housing I needed to use 2 tools (pointed starter punches) at the same time, one on each of the flats cut into the Copper. Trying to turn in the heatsink with pressure on only One flat will cause it to bind. Apply pressure turning onto both cut flats at the same time or you may be cursing getting this to tighten deeper than the housing.
No trouble getting any heatsinks threading started in my parts with flat side of copper going in first.
They should be the same “thread pitch” of 1.25mm though. I would hope… The differences you see are a pointier “root” on my version, which would not cause interference, it is simply because I used a pointier threading tool, and the larger flat of the “crest” is because I increased the thread pitch diameter without increasing the overall OD. This increase in the pitch diameter is what could cause interference if the threads of the head are not as consistent as I have experienced.
The brass pill not having much slop on your light is tell tale: either the brass pill has an increased pitch diameter, or the head of the light has a reduced pitch diameter, or a combination of both. Or the pitch is different, which I would not think would be the case. On the six or more s2+’s I’ve tried, one of which was a red one, the brass pills had tons of play in them, which is why I increased the pitch diameter of the thread. I did give my threads a bit more tolerance this run than I did the first time just because.
If anyone has trouble let me know and I can issue a refund. No problem.
Side note: I decided a while back that I won’t be making any more heatsinks for lights or hosts that I did not make or modify myself. There is just too much variance out there.
Well that’s good. You should get some snap ring pliers though! :zipper_mouth_face:
I have many sets of snap ring pliers in my shop, just not here at my apartment. I had no trouble with my method, just wanted to point out my realizations and save others possible issues.
Very nice pics Deranger,
I tried my best with what I got, phone camera… but my heatsinks threads look the same.
Painting the heatsink with a sharpie marker and trying to thread it may help show indications where things are binding.
I try to do my best because I know how people insist on posting full screen macro shots of them…
@deranger If you can’t get that heatsink to fit your light (and nobody else has claimed it before me of course), I’ll buy it from you at original cost. No reason to bother hoop with a return unless you guys just want to do it that way.
Sorry, not parting with it. As far as I’m concerned it’s a problem with the host, not the heatsink. Got a couple S2+ on order already!
If you should ever decide to make a few for an sk98, I would really love to drop that in. I know it's an older one nowadays but, normally they are sold before I get them changed over to XM8 and 8*7135 board.
Just food for thought...
Can’t blame you for that. Didn’t hurt to ask though