Battery got really hot!

I have a 5.5A flashlight powered by 2x 18650 laptoppulls(1800mah, 4-5 years old, 100-200 cycles)

After 2.5 minutes at 5.5A, I took out the batteries and they were hot. I could only hold them for around 2 seconds before I had to let go. Not super hot, but hot enough to be worried.
What should I do?

I plan to get some 26650’s for this light. Idk what chemistry I should get. ICR INR IMR? What chemistry are laptop pulls?

I am thinking about this one: 4000mah ICR

Are these the same as the kingkong? KingKong 4000

The reviews on those kingkongs are amazing. chinesee + over rated capacity??! they never mix!

26650's have pretty good ratings, aside from the 5000 and 6000 mAh Ultrafire batteries.

I'd go with an IMR.

When you pulled them out [of the laptop battery] what was the voltage? What’s the lowest voltage they’ve ever been discharged to? Have you measured their internal resistance?

Sounds like you got extremely lucky, honestly I wouldn’t use them again, especially no where near 5.5A.

The heat you felt was from high internal resistance. I recommend you only use those batteries for lower current lights.

I only keep battery pulls that are over 3.0V
No, I have not measured internal resistance.

I thought each battery was being used at 2.75A because there is two of them? maybe 2.9A because my driver is cheap

Could you explain why I would go with IMR? the Kingkong is ICR and it can take 5A easily? I think IMR is high drain (20A?) but what about I N R?

Two cells in series? Were they the same voltage to begin with?

INR are high-drain, the N is for nickel.

Just found the best cell of a recent bull. It has nearly original capacity (2200) and lowest internal resistance - 51 miliohm. It was in a pair discharged to 0.8V. It even holds the voltage after being charged yesterday (still 4.15V)

If the batteries were used in parallel in the flashlight, then each delivered (approximately) half the current. As long as the batteries are charged to the same voltage, they would "share" the load. But if the batteries were used in series, they both had to deliver the full current. They would each have to contribute the full load, to add the voltage. That could cause disaster if you don't use very good batteries.

Nope, parallel or series, the combination of cells deliver the same amount of power.

If you double the voltage, you half the current, so the batteries would deliver half the current when two are in series. (buck driver)

The batteries shouldn’t get that hot in any case. What is the current draw of the flashlight when you’re using the cells?

The flashlight drew 5.5 A. If the batteries were used in parallel then each would only have to deliver half of that. If used in series the would both have to deliver the full 5.5 A. The power used was never mentioned, only the current. I assume that the current was measured before the driver. However, that might be wrong...

I see what you’re saying.

What is the light? Unless it’s a multi-emitter light or an MT-G2, it shouldn’t be drawing that much out of each cell in series.

Was your laptop battery pack brand new and never ever charged? If so, then it can be okay to use cells with much lower initial voltage. It's still a really good idea to test them, but chances are that they're okay. If not, then several of us are going to be in a lot of trouble because we've collectively bought hundreds of brand new never charged laptop battery packs with cells that initially had alarmingly low voltage. I'll get some discharge charts up soon on the batteries I bought.

I'm going to disagree with Ryan about current not being split when used in parallel. I don't see how it could be any other way. Overall resistance must be lowered too, which explains why the same driver can pull 7.5 amps with one battery, and then over twice as much with four of the same batteries used in parallel. If I'm wrong, I'd really appreciate if someone would explain the math so I can make sense of it.

sst 50 driver, resistor modded till around 5.6A

One xml2

I tried other batteries and they got warm after 30 seconds or something

So will 2x Kingkong4000mah do the trick? I want to be able to leave it on for 5 mins without battery getting too warm.
They are ICR so…. what do I do?

I can post pictures of light and battery if needed

Thanks for your help guys!

That’s a buck driver supplying 5.6A (after modding) to the LED.

It shouldn’t be drawing too much current from the cells in series, about 3.0A or so.

Even if the cells have high internal resistance, they shouldn’t be getting that hot. I highly recommend you to measure the tailcap current, because there seems to be more going on.

3.41A at tail (bad dmm*)

I dont have any resistors that can handle much power.
Is there a way to test resistance with current draw and voltage?

I searched up some guy who did the test but his explanation still confuses me.

Link

Second method

With this method both measurements are made with a load on the battery, this makes it possible to measure the resistance closer to the actual working point.

The formula to calculate resistance is this.
Note: measurement 1 is the high resistance, i.e. low current measurement.

current1 = voltage1 / resistance1
current2 = voltage2 / resistance2
Resistance = (voltage1 - voltage2) / (current2 - current1)”

I am not sure what do do with resistance1 and 2… where do I find these values?

For the first method, I think I could take apart a computer PSU to find some fat resistors in there. What value is a good value for this test?

I got so many 18650 I want to test! :smiley:

You know the precautions for storing and handling?

Did you research the type of batteries you pulled…do they have any markings you can Google to see if you can find any info on them…most laptop pulls are mild current ratings 2-3C which means 1800mAh at 2C wouldn’t be near the 5.5A capability you need, w/ safety buffer of an amp or two higher needed to run safely for any length of time

Be careful

sounds like a short in the light somewhere…

aw man. So what should my amps be saying instead of 3.41A?

And for storing batteries, I know I have to discharge them to around 40% (3.5V i think), but I never do that because I have too many.

I tested the voltage of the battery under load. 4.17V still, and 3.71V under load. After 15 seconds, voltage goes to 3.65V.

I really don’t want to take it apart again. I don’t think I have much arctic silver left.