I recently received a Fandyfire HD2010 from lightcastle. Cut to the chase? I was very disappointed. While there was no evident damage or anything like that. The beam was not uniform & not very bright at all. Trying to be optimistic. I figured it was cheap & lit up. What more could I ask for?
Flash forward to today. I received a Ultrafire HD 2010. Being that I was pretty disappointed in the first one. I didn’t expect much. I dropped in a battery and clicked it on… Whoa!! What da…. The ultrafire buries the fandyfire. I was confused at this. After doing a bit of research, I was led to believe the Fandyfire was the superior lite. The reports I got were way off.
The lights are exactly the same, same distance, batteries ( Keygos 26650 4800mah 3.7v )
Anyone looking for a HD2010… I’d go with the Ultrafire. Just sayin…
Where did you buy the Ultrafire? My Fandyfire smokes my Tangsfire about the same way your Ultafire smokes your Fandyfire. Luck of the draw, sometimes you get a good one and sometimes you don’t. Each shipment to dealers could be different. I recenty bought 2 C8s from the same dealer and they were totally different, one had a copper pill and other had an aluminum, output and build quality were also a lot different. Both bough at the same time and shipped together.
The earlier FandyFire’s were every bit as good as the Ultra’s, now the newer batch has crap output drivers.
Also the Rustu R1B seems to have the low output driver by looking at the specs.
Cool looking light though, a little different than the HD2010.
About Clay, not only does one set forth both with people. A few of us would rather be elsewhere while reading such things. Everytime it happens like this some good things are around. Bountiful and delouse, extrodiaire!
I have one of the original Fandyfires. It has the East-092 driver in it unregulated on high mode. I guess after the first run of these lights, they start to go the cheap route. Glad Ultrafire still produces a light that doesn’t disappoint.
The ultrafire had crappy threads and the tailcap pretty much welded itself to the barrel. Being that the Fandyfire had aweseome threads nice & smooth… I took the emitter out of the sub standard Ultrafire body & put it into the Fandyfire body.
Dale what's the tailcap draw on high? As mentioned in many threads, the HD2010 it can measure anywhere from ~2A to ~3,5A (or more?). When I bought mine the draw was ~3,5A, then after a couple of months it dropped to ~2,4A... Today I replaced the driver with a new East-092 and it draws 3,8A (26650 protected cell). This driver is too easy to replace as it does not need soldering to the pill.
The welding I speak of was from me hand twisting the tailcap on… It is permanently stuck now…. Trust me, I put some pipe wrenches to it. I’ll destroy it before it moves.
Testing my FandyFire just now using an Unprotected KK 26650, I get 4.75a at the tail, using a Trustfire 26650 5000mAh protected cell, I get 4.10a at the tail. I don’t think using an unprotected cell is a good idea with this light running unregulated in high mode. I’d stick with a good protected cell, IMHO.
This was using my 12 gauge leads on my DMM. Hope this helps.
