Holy crap, thanks. Some of those could come in quite handy.
Cant. Get. Image. Out. Of. My. Head. Oh. The. Pain. Make. It. Stop. Please.
Hell, all you got left is images in your head, now that you can’t turn your lights on any more. Can’t believe that law!
Yep, I trash my own thread, LOL.
I posted at work and thought it was here but I get home and nothing. Rufus probably deleted it.
Mate, what can I say. Your setup is amazing. Nearly as good as mine. It is a credit to you and we all should use this as an example of how to have tools and items in an orderly fashion. I got vertigo scrolling through your pictures and the draws kept getting lower. Very nice.
Without trying to take up your thread with needless pictures I'm just posting a small shot to keep the focus on your build. If its not to clear, trust me when I say its a little neater than OL.
My apologies to all as I posted the above in the incorrect thread which would be this one. Please ignore it. The silly old buggers thread checker is playing up. I think its caused by the vertigo I got looking down in OL tool chest draws as they got deeeeeeeeeeeeeper.
Could be worse, some aspire to this - a bench with tools and parts and especially the ability to leave them laying out. Today is cleanup that mess day . . .
MRsDNF - Everything is cool. No worries.
As far as neat, well I have laxed quite a bit. In my 20's and 30's you could open any of those drawers and everything would be lined up perfectly, clean, shiny and in perfect order. Now I consider it lucky if I put them back in the right drawer.
Updated the OP with a couple more photos.
JB Weld my man... thermal conductivity as good as if not better than AA, electrically nonconductive, and you can get it 10oz at a time ('Industro-Weld') at the auto parts store...
(edit: and if you can add some heat, like sitting on top of an electric space heater etc. it'll cure hard enough to shape with a file in as little as 2 hours)
what has been thought cannot be unthought. Would you like the mind bleach? :bigsmile:
Using the perfboard is a great idea! I won't do the series setup like yours, but I will do the master/slave 105C setup so I can improve the UI.
I'm confused though, and maybe you stated this, but how are you securing the top board (perfboard) so that it lines up with the batteries? The bottom board is secured to the body, but in the stock configuration the driver board is located in the head. How do you load the batteries?
Indeed it is. a fellow flashaholic from the other end of the country is dropping in tonight so big cleanup tonight.
Thanks OL I reckon I can follow the new pictures with the driver mod. Cheers.
OL did you happen to take a measurement of the height between the emitter baseplate and underside of the bezel/lens?
Well, to start with, I will put in the board as it is (just set it in. Then I will tighten the body and make any adjustments, so the contacts are lined up as I want. Then I just mark the board and the head, so that when I take the body back off, I have alignment marks. I will use a coating of AA around the rim of the board, so that when I put it in for good, it will stay in the head. Loading the batteries is as normal, unscrew the body, put them in and screw it back on. All the springs are still in the bottom. Springs will work on positive or negative terminals, especially since these are large positive buttons and they don’t protrude much.
The problem I see is using the body to break contact, to stop parasitic drain. I do not think I can do that with this configuration, since unscrewing the body a half turn, will put the batteries on the wrong contacts. I do not know if it could short them. I have to verify what happens with that.
I have done this with two Rooks, but I used the tail caps as the means to break contact, by unscrewing the tail cap a half turn. The King is different, so it remains to be seen how it goes.
The height with the baseplate stock, or the height with it flipped upside down? I can tell you what it is now (upside down), when I get home from work. Stock (I think), was 19mm.
It just seems like when you turn the body the batteries would get stuck between the pads you soldered to the perfboard. But looking at the batteries, it looks as though there isn't a pronounced button top so it shouldn't be an issue. Never mind, carry on good sir!
Thanks! The p60 reflectors I cut down for the D Mag ended up at .665" (16.9mm), and that's after I cut out the o-ring lip in the bezel to move the lens up. Not fun!
I really like seeing the frosted retaining plate thing being used here. 
When you turn it 90 degrees away from the desired position you will have a short on each pair of cells. 180 degrees is back to normal.
You need a way to break the two tail circuits while tightening, or a rotating head plate.
The way it is now, with the plate in upside down, it is a hair under 16mm. 16mm would be the max. Anything more and you could use a thinner lens, as this lens is really thick.