I got it to where I only have to turn less than an 1/8 of a turn till it breaks contact, so the batteries aren’t shorting and it turns the light off.
Beam shots tomorrow night. It's a wall of light with those TIR optics in it.
Does the driver your using have parasitic drain? I wasn’t aware that you could use electronic sensor type switches with Nanjg drivers to cause them to “power off”. Wouldn’t using one of your Judco 10 amp switches cut off the power entirely and result in no drain.
It's done, beam shots tonight.
Yes, there is parasitic drain. I like the stock electronic switch. I favor them over any other style switch. I wanted to keep the stock switching system. Hence the need to twist the body a little, to break current, just like the stock kings are. See the bottom of the OP for photos of just how little is needed to lock it out.
Very cool.
Nice going Old. That was quick! How do you like the TIR’s performance in this build when compared to the stock reflectors? Can you tell us which ones you used & the beam angle you chose?
Looking forward to your beam shots.
The TIR optics are from Fasttech, 15 degree angle. I would say that like all TIR optics, you loose about 20% out the front. In other words, it’s not near as bright as a stock King. Also the beam is smoother and larger in diameter, even with 15 degree optics. TIR Optics are for indoor or outdoor floodlighting, like in LED bulbs. They are not for throwers. This light is now a wall of light at 30 to 50 yards. That’s it, but it’s different from any other King, so I accomplished what I wanted.
Congrats. That is going to be one beast of a light. You are the King of creativity and resourcefulness.
If you didn't already, put a small spring under the switch button. Spring from a Bic pen is perfect, cut it about 1/8" longer than the little peg on the button (and bend the top end in a little so it grips the peg and won't fall out when putting it back together). Makes it feel a LOT better by taking up any slack and makes it less likely to get bumped on accidentally.
I STILL can't get the tailcap off mine. GRRRRRR 
Thanks for the quick reply Old. I ordered a set of 10 degree optics for my 6 x XML build but they have not yet arrived. They seem to be all the rage for budget TIR over at MTBR, beating out other more costly name brands. If they put out a nice wall of light without killing lumens for 6, I can post my results here if you like.
You sure have come a long way in the sophistication and quality of your builds. Thanks for posting so many details. I really like your master/slave 7135 setup.
WaY to go O.L nice project ,how quick was that…!
I was waiting to hear from you about that.But ,heres one ,even with the strap and shifter and mrs jakeys help i cant budge the terminator end cap,unless its left hand thread! :Sp
I can't believe any mfg would use red loctite on threads. Sounds like they do not want anyone modding them. If I had one, I would give Acetone a try. I do not think acetone would hurt the Anodizing. I have used to clean ano before and it did not hurt, but I do not know if it would take off the color. It should dissolve any loctite in the threads, but without trying it, I can't say the results to the finish would be good.
Someone go ahead and try it and report back. 
I let it sit for two days with the battery can half full of acetone, I think it glued it on even tighter.
Speaking of red loctite, you seen the new Solarforce S1100? The tiny little 3mm(or 4mm, whatever) screws that hold the driver cover plate into the head? F'in red loctite. So if you want to see what you paid for, you get to drill & tap three new holes for the three new screws to replace the three that break off. Identical screws holding an identical plate into the tailcap to retain the switch, those screws have no red loctite.
Please tell me the Solarforce S1100 bezel isnt glued and that you can remove the reflector to swap the emitter star. Hopefully the star isnt screwed and glued as well.
I have pictures of everything, will put them up later tonight. Nothing tamper-proofed except the driver plate screws. 20mm round copper star not glued just grey paste, and it only pulls 1.22 amps. I really don't understand that. At all.
When in doubt, go to the Loctite website. Red is only removable when heated to Above 500 degrees F.
Hotter than the Ano can take before it will turn color.
Urghh red loctite, if heat and solvents don’t help, one other thing to try, with which I have had success (not on torches though) with seized/loctite threads, is freeze spray from (in the uk) car factors. Might make the l’tite brittle enough to break the seal.
BEAM SHOTS are up! OMG!!
Just “WOW” on the beam shots! Those TIR’s work great for a mega-flooder. Actually far better than I had expected. Now I cant wait to get mine! Thanks for posting Old. You must be very pleased with your results… all that with no lithium.
I want this one. Oh yes wall of light!