yes i think so!
+1
Is the Archer more throwy than the Balder SE-1 or Xtar WK26 with 14500?
Which was how many hours, days, weeks or months, por favor?
Input power , Lumens, LED junction temperature ^, less life.
I definitely recommend Nitecore MT1A.
Price/quality, for me the best.
On Ebay from $ 32.
I own one, and lust after them mightily. 
For a 1*AA flashlight, they are “almost bright enough”…
They are available in several places, but at $21USD on eBay, Free Shipping , that’s only $0.95 more than I paid for mine from ManaFont.
My co-workers and I need the 1*AA, maximum brightness form factor, so I was buying TrustFire F20s and replacing the LED with NW XM-Ls, but that host is weak in a few areas, well documented on this forum. (Full Disclosure: I highly recommend the F20 for people wanting to mod wee lights. It’s an excellent starter! But the fitment issues, blinky modes and lack of effective waterproofing make them hard to live with on a job that will eat an AA alkaline a day (not every day)…)
The F20s finished cost to me is ~ $15, which is not cheap enough to listen to the “piece of c_” feedback on the job, so we’ll be using U20S until something better (and a LOT cheaper) comes along.
Dim.
I don’t see this light on Shiningbeam.
What I do see is Romisen RC-29 II NW Cree XP-G R5, but I’m not sure what the difference is.
I assume that means they are currently out of stock
the RC-29 is a zoomable light, so it goes from flood to spotlight, some people like this kind of light, its not quite the same as an average flashlight
Thanks. But is the RC-G2 III more powerful?
I don’t know, i’m guessing not, i have the RC-G2, its a great light, highly recommended but if you want lots of power i suggest looking elsewhere, Bryan had said the RC-G2 is about 140 lumens, if this is the same driver then it should be about the same brightness.
Keep in mind a zoomie with the same lumens as a regular light won’t throw as far or light up a room in the same way.
You could e-mail and ask this ones lumens.
How is its throw pattern? I’d like something that’s less of a thrower; more dispersed, and decent battery life (single AA).
I currently have the Energizer Tactical 1AA flashlight which kind of meets these criteria, but it’s only 37 lumens. For around $20, I’m hoping I can do better than this Energizer.
DX has this Romisen RC-R5 which says it’s rated at 300 lumen, but I’m not sure what kind of throw pattern I can expect of out it.
If the run time is correct then it can’t be 350 lumens, but it could be 200 to 250
To be honest if you want lots of lumens and don’t mind buying some $10 18650 sanyos and a charger i’d say go for a convoy s2 from fasttech and you can choose its brightness
The RC-G2 throw pattern is good, bright spot, fair amount of flood (i wouldn’t mind a bit more though). Theres a big difference between the shiningbeam one and one purchased from DX or elsewhere, mine is an XP-G, while many others are an XP-E and less lumens
Just picked up Jetbeam BA10 - nice little light. Appears to be made quite well. Looking into getting Nitecore MT1A also.
SC52 design is different with other old ZL, it has recessed switch button, it won’t be activated by accident in pocket.
I also not comfort to use old SC51 as EDC light because it has protruding sensitive switch, but now SC52 really bring my interest back to ZL 
… and incorrect. The OP specifically stated 1*AA, NOT 4*AA!
Maybe this is why any WB post has so many “no complaining” disclaimers…
Surely anything that really pushes the output with a single AA will not run very well on an alkaline battery, therefore finding a battery in any shop becomes less likely and less relevant.
NiMh or Lithium Primaries would be the only way to get the output.
I need a fastest car, but within 1000 ccm engine!
“don’t care price”, LOL!
titanium/carbon fiber Smartcar with turbo Hayabusa engine & direct-port nitrous? LOL
Seriously though…
As Chicken Drumstick pointed out, it is very true that high output & single AA alkaline are mutually exclusive. If you want a purely alkie-friendly light you should stick to more modestly driven XPGs & XPEs in the 150-200 lumen range. BUT If lithiums & NiMH are included, then higher outputs are more feasible.
I have a XPG Ultrafire C3 (from manafont), a XPG Ultrafire G10 (from DX), and a XPG Thrunite T10 (now called the “Saber”) that serve as my emergency NiMH/alkie [last resort only] lights.
Many mentioned the ZL SC52, but I felt the SC80 should be mentioned as well. I have the SC80W neutral version, which is rated at 189 lumens. The standard tint model is slightly more, I think 220lm. The advantage of the SC80 over the SC52 is battery versatility. The SC80 can take AA or CR123A (which are sold at some convenience stores, big box stores, and camera stores). If emergency battery scrounging is a concern, this versatility may be a benefit worth considering. I admit, the new 52 is brighter by a fair amount. Depends what your priorities are….
Hope that helps. Good luck.
True ..And only a 14500 will make it a "wow light" from this size battery ...
Even then they won't run very long at " wow lumens "
IMHO, the most impressing light to non-flashaholics will be a very cool white pencil beam thrower - any movement toward warm tints and flood, although much more practical for flashaholics, will appear less impressive to the uninitiated. Something with a small emitter in a large head with smooth reflector will do it. A Quark Turbo AA2 on 1xAA body, or Nitcore EA1 would be good - I believe both lights have the highest throw numbers in the 3V class (2xAA and CR123) on Selfbuilt’s tests, and both use the same head in their 1xAA versions.