Oh no….ick
I got one of those…did a review
Yeah cheap light…but it’s cheap for a reason!..yikes
Absolute KILLER deal for $10.xx!!! http://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/1124126364.html?tracelog=rowan&rowan_id=ae_pay_low_mail_template_en_US_2014-05-08
Great platform for tons of mods too! http://www.dx.com/s/502b+drop
-Jamie M.
I think these are the most practical of currently available flashlights, but I don’t like them esthetically. They look too mass produced.
Very tempting!
Wonder if 502B in XML2 U2 1A rivals C8 in XML T6.
Its way less powerful because it only draw 1 amp but you have very long runtime. That because of the very poor heat-sinking P60 module you can’t push it hard for more than few minutes.
The light have lot of flood with little throw compared to C8.
I run my custom p60 dropins (xml2/xpg2 on copper) at 3A. I definitely wouldn’t go any higher. Lotta heat. 100% and 15% modes are great for dealing with the heat.
Just wishful thinking (without thinking) on comparing to C8 — considering bezel is about twice bigger for one thing.
What’s the difference in XML T6 vs XML2 U2?
The gray one looks best.
What do you mean wishful thinking ? I have several P60 and C8 light and its just that; more flood, less light and less trow. Making it more useful indoor.
XM-L2 is the lastest CREE LED, you gain more light and throw, about 20% more. The U2 is the flux bin meaning it give more lumen than T6.
U3>U2>T6>T5>T4>T3 etc…
That is a very close copy of the Solarforce L2M Add your own drop-in it will also take 18650 batteries, you get a lot more options (plus Solarforce quality) for a little extra $$.
- XM-L2 is about 14% more efficient than XM-L. But since it’s binned at higher temperature top bin is the same. But at the same temperature, XM-L2 is exactly two bins over XM-L, for example: XM-L2 T5=XM-L U2, XM-L2 T6=XM-L U3, XM-L2 U2=XM-L U4.
Does each bin gives 7% (14%/2) more efficiency?
Is XM-L2 U2 three bins over XM-L T6? Is it 21% (7% *3) more efficient?
Does efficiency directly translate to Brightness?
- Correct.
- Correct.
- No. Efficiency + current to the emitter = brightness.
What I am ultimately after is whether WF-502B w/ XM-L2 U2 is comparable in brightness with C8 w/ XM-L T6 and much bigger reflector. Any guess?
All things being equal (e.g., same driver and with an equally good battery that is able to sustain similar voltage and current), the WF-502B with XM-L2 U2 will be “brighter” (= more lumens) than a C8 with an XM-L T6.
However, the WF-502B will probably be more floody than the C8, or putting it another way, the C8 will be more throwy than the WF-502B.
That means that while the WF-502B will be “brighter”, the hotspot from the C8 at any given distance will probably be brighter than the hotspot from the WF-502B.
The thing is there is no guarantee you’ll get the specified emitter bin especially in budget lights. There’s so many variables that need to be accounted for before you could even think about testing them… really it’s just down to type of emitter and tint.
I actually have these 2 exact lights sitting in front of me.
Noteable differences: Custom P60 xml2 on copper at 3A CW 1100 lumens before losses. Stock C8 xml at 2.8A NW 850 lumens before losses.
Despite the noted lumen difference, I prefer the C8.
C8 has a concentrated central hotspot and a ring of light (corona) around the hotspot and a third level of brightness (flood) around the corona.
P60 has a corona and brighter flood.
Comparing directly with the C8, the P60 essentially has the same beam profile except the hotspot is blended into the corona and the flood area is slightly brighter in the P60.
The corona and flood of the C8 is about 10% wider.
These differences translate into the C8 having far more throw than the P60, and the P60 has a smoother beam for short-medium (~40 yards) distances.
The above two responses point out the difficulties in trying the comparison, but also give answers. Thanks.
Armed with the information from two other posters here - phantom23, Omega_17, decided to get the more compact wf-502b xm-l2 u2 (recommended by ‘toysareforboys’) and chance that I don’t really need BULKY lights with big bezel like TangsFire C8 in mostly flat city park walking/trotting. All I need is just enough throw to give advance warning on runner/dog/cyclist.