I might have a skewed idea of what a hot flame is. When I think cold flame Im thinking of turning the oxygen down lol
You still got bottles of real MAP lying around? I know a few people that have managed to still hold on to a few bottles of that stuff.
Good choice!
It’s a pretty decent flashlight, and if you don’t like Anduril, you’re not out that much money. 
MAPP gas burns much hotter than say, Propane. Don’t know the exact temps, I’d have to google it. But yea, I thought MAPP is still readily available here and I didn’t know there was a problem sourcing it and after reading your post I looked it up and yep it was discontinued in 2008. I didn’t know that. However, what they now sell as a MAPP substitute, still works for my needs as it does indeed burn much hotter than Propane. I just learned something I didn’t know about MAPP gas on BLF. This place is awesome.
edit… looked up the temps.
The MAPP substitute from Bernzomatic (MAP-PRO) which is what I use burns at 3,730F vs 3600F for Propane. I guess that 130 degrees F is enough of a difference for acyrlic. Propane will not flame polish, I’ve tried it. MAP-PRO as well as original MAPP melts it real quick so you have to be careful with it.
I have still got 4 new and 1 partial squirreled away on the back of a top shelf. A friend worked in a welders supply store and told me about the change before it happened. I try not to use it.
The problem with the SC21 Pro IMO is its oddball battery: the 16340 size neither easy to find nor inexpensive, and not great in the capacity department either (the factory one is only 800mAh, less than the 14500 that comes with the TS10, which is also much cheaper and easier to find). I don’t think it’s a good idea for an Anduril beginner to start by going down that road.
But otherwise good recommendation, thanks
@litris IMHO you’re overthinking this.
A plastic TIR is fine even without a glass or AR in front, I have a few flashlights that way and the beam they produce is totally on par and sometimes better than AR-glassed, reflector-equipped ones.
Good rec, and very good price!
I’d only recommend making a point of paying with Paypal so as to have recourse in case of AE/vendor shenanigans, both of which have been quite frequent as of late.
Good recommendations, and Hanklights are about the best in terms of overall quality.
I have just two reservations about Hanklights, Re: Anduril and beginners:
they’re kinda expensive, so perhaps not that good for someone still probing the waters, so to speak;
Hank’s still stuck with the ATTiny85 MCU while most everyone else has moved on to the much much better ATTiny1616 – so Hanklights get worse temp regulation (no calibrated temp sensor), worse upgradability (less memory so larger/newer/more capable versions of Anduril will eventually not fit) and the outdated 4+2 flashing pad layout (both less convenient and requiring a harder to find and more expensive flashing kit).
Just my $0.02, of course.
100% agreed! Perhaps we should start a pool/petition about that, here or in r/flashlight or both?
BTW, are you in r/flashlight, perhaps with a different username? your ‘accent’ seems familiar… 
Well explained! 
Thank you.
I wanted to say.
I thought the Tir was glass to distribute the light, more flooded.
This is the one I was going to buy but I saw the other one much smaller and same led for half the price.
It was just to test the brand and anduril.
But it doesn’t say in the description that it has anduril.
13€ vs 26€
It wasn’t because of the price either it was because they had the same led and one was more comfortable to wear and only 13€ I thought they both had anduril.
I follow the thread to choose a test model with anduril out of curiosity!
You got it! 
Only the D18 (soon to be discontinued) has the t85, the others use the t1634. Temperature calibration is definitely an issue, agreed, and them being harder to flash than t1616 with UPDI, but for the most part people aren’t going to be updating/hacking their lights straight away (and there’s only one multichannel non-Hanklight which is the LT1S Pro…). Both the 1634 and 1616 have the same amount of flash, the 1616 is just better in other ways (factory calibrated, better flashing protocol, harder to brick, I think better PWM resolution, etc.). I’m hoping the M44 will use the 1616, or even just an updated version of current lights (I’d buy a load more again )
I was wrong!
This is what I wanted anduril and with more diffuser glass.
But the other one appeared below and I thought it was the same only 1800 vs 2000 LM.
I didn’t see that it didn’t have anduril and it didn’t come apart and didn’t have reflector or glass!
I will buy it I will see if I can override the other one I think not.
Just confirming it doesn’t have TIR if anyone has it.
Thanks! I remember it was my choice SC31Pro but I was blinded by seeing the same as the S2+ 1800 and half the price. 
I had not read you, sorry.
Since I can’t cancel the order, I’ll see it with my eyes.
No negative comments on the SC18 they say it is very small and comfortable.
I was doing it for having one with anduril.
I thought the TIR would be less bright.
Yep hasn’t been made for 15 years. But they’re still milking the name.
Btw, those, and most flame temps you’ll see quoted online, are the adiabatic flame temperatures. This is the theoretical, impossible to attain in real life maximum that assumes complete combustion in a closed system with constant volume and no heat transfer. Ie) energy of the reactants=energy of the products.
No heat is lost to the surrounding air, every molecule reacts at its perfect stoichiometric ratio with 100% efficiency. You have to find this number just using math, the experiment can’t actually be done, it’s purely theoretical. The real world flame temperature of propane in air I’ve found to be about 2100°F with a venturi pre-mix in open air, and around 2200°F using pre-heated compressed air with a pre-mix torch. At the tip of the primary flame in both cases, the hottest part of the flame.
The primary flame is that smaller, distinct, usually brighter blue/white flame within the larger flame. This is relevant to MAP-pro, a 95:5 propene:propane mixture (in Bernzomatic’s version), because MAP-pro is only hotter than propane at the primary flame.
The total heat released by propane is more than that of Map-Pro. If you wanted to heat a room with an open flame for some reason, propane would heat the room quicker. The secondary flame of MAP-pro is colder than propane’s. But it’s primary flame is hotter. Not that much hotter, but hotter. It does appear significantly hotter in use though.
This is because the combustion of propene is a faster, more violent reaction that requires less oxygen than propane. The reaction is faster, the flame speed is higher, and so it transfers heat much faster than propane and does seem like you must be working with a flame that’s much hotter.
Really, it’s just much faster and more efficient in air and so heats objects much quicker. It great if you don’t have oxygen, or a limited supply. There are some versions of Map-Pro out now that are in a way oxygenated by adding Dimethyl ether, similar to the effect of adding ethanol to gasoline, with both fuels having an oxygen molecule. Gotta get oxygen from somewhere.
I go the old fashioned way of just keeping a seperate tank of it. If you have a good supplier a K tank, a cylinder about the size of an person, filled to >2000psi might cost $50 and gives me around 8 hours of a constant flame that really is >3600°F. Oxygen makes all the difference. But I use a lot of oxygen and $50 adds up so I’ve got refurbished medical oxygen concentrators that just pull it from the air hooked up to a 2000PSI ‘homefill’ medical oxygen compressor and fill my own tanks. I stop at 1000PSI for cycle life though lol.
I’ve also got a hydrogen torch to work quartz glass but don’t use it too much anymore because it’s a little dangerous. There’s no smell to a hydrogen leak and the flame is almost invisible. The way you check for a hydrogen leak is to take a broom and wave it around in the air, up high since hydrogen is lighter than air. If the broom disappears in a flash of smoke, you might have a leak lmao
Great info, thanks!
The SC31 Pro comes with a Reflector and a Glass Lens
Thanks now if I make sure.
And it has Anduril I have seen that it says Anduril UI in the description, but in user photos in some manuals it says Anduril 2.
Although the SC18 is on the way, Anduril does not have it, perhaps the SC18 is a good flashlight.
My SC31pros from end of last year came with Anduril 2 as UI.
There you have it!
If you can, please come back us with your impressions once you receive and start using it!
Thanks for the clarifications. I was aware of the AT1634, but didn’t know it was that widely used in Hank’s lights. I understand it and the AT1616 are both part of the same AT16xx ‘line’, so it looks like Hank just picked the worse MCU vs the AT1616. Perhaps to try and keep the same flashing kit? Not a good decision in my book… :-/
