As per the subject. Opened this new topic inspired by a question from @litris on the Convoys’ big thread.
My vote is for the Wurkkos TS10: inexpensive, widely available and full-featured, and Wurkkos has been a great vendor to buy from; IMO its only defects (glued bezel, clip not so great, and Li-Ion only) are not that bad and would hardly inconvenience someone starting out with Anduril.
Please post your recommendations!
While I might not buy a light because it does not have Anduril, I don’t think there are any lights I would buy solely because it did have Anduril.
If the sole or main reason for the light’s purchase was mainly to experience Anduril sure, then the TS10 could be a good choice. But perhaps switch position, size, battery capacity, usb charging or not are also factors that need consideration. Pretty much nothing is one-size-fits-all.
For me, at least, but that is simply my way of looking at the question.
. .
I have both TS10 and Sofirn SC21 Pro. I use the SC21 Pro more.
pros and cons:
The TS10 button is larger and easier to use. And it ships with a newer version of Anduril 2, that has a lower low mode of 0.02 lumens, than the stock SC21 Pro low of 0.2 lumens.
otoh,
The SC21 Pro has built in charging, an illuminated button, and a tailmagnet. And it can be reflashed to a newer version of Anduril 2, to gain the lower lows like the TS10.
From a modding perspective, the SC21 Pro is 519a compatible, the TS10 is not.
For someone that already has a LiIon charger, the TS10 has a more comfortable button to use. otoh the SC21 Pro is a more complete self contained lighting package.
Some people who dont buy the stock TS10 battery with the light, end up having issues trying to use longer batteries, that interfere with good electrical contact of the inner tube design of the TS10. The SC21 pro does not tend to have battery length issues, though I still recommend buying the stock battery w the light.
The pocket clip on the TS10 tends to snag when placing over a seam, because of the waistline of the light. The pocket clip on the SC21 Pro works better with the straight body, even though its the same clip, and it also carries the light deeper in pocket.
The TS10 user needs to learn to avoid using the bright Aux, to prevent too fast battery drain. This is problematic. The SC21 button light does not have this issue.
Some people think they can lockout the Aux on the TS10 by physical lockout, but this is problematic due to the switch staying active, and if pressed can cause a factory reset.
On the SC21 Pro, physical lockout does not have the limitations of the TS10.
The triple LED beam of the TS10 is very floody. Imo the single LED beam of the SC21 Pro is more efficient. Because it has more candela per lumen, the beam will reach farther and the battery will last longer,
So imo, the SC21 Pro is a more practical choice. It is the light I bring when I travel. And it is the introductory Anduril light I prefer to give to non flashoholics. The TS10 has a few more idiosyncracies, that require a bit more operator education, than the SC21 Pro.
Cheap option: TS10
Full hotrod experience: DT8K
Dual channel (IMO, the full anduril experience): D4/D4K (Wurkkos/Sofirn, please make a dual channel… now anduril has multichannel support, how about an IF22A pro?)
Good thread!!!
Yesterday I bought a Sofirn SC18 offer for only 13€ with battery.
But I don’t know if she has Anduril, they have already sent it, but I realized late that although everyone speaks highly of her, she has a Tir-type plastic on her head and not a glass like a convoy, I personally don’t like that, it can’t be disassembled either.
I don’t know if I did the right thing but for that price I don’t lose anything, I wanted to try Anduril and I thought she had it.
I’m writing down the models you mention, I like the Convoy the design and the finish in addition to its power.
Could you put anduril on an S21E?
This one has an electronic ignition, but I think that in the other thread it says that it is a different microcontroller that Simon uses.
No Anduril.
No Anduril.
I thought I had it like the others of the same brand or the Wurkkos TS21 etc.
After discovering that they do not have glass, they use plastic, or the head is not removable, in some models, I have been disappointed with Sofirn and I think that Wurkkos also uses plastic.
I didn’t have time to cancel the order for the SC18, but I still don’t have it, maybe I’ll change my mind.
I have grown accustomed to the quality of convoy lanterns.
What I like about Anduril is to go to a mode directly with pulsations without going through all of them, for example Turbo or Strobe
Thanks and I’ll follow the thread!
All TIR optics used in flashlights are made from plastic (PMMA). Some are protected by a glass, but it can break easily. The plastic might be scratched over time more easily, but it’s mostly not noticeable in the beam.
I just don’t like plastic on a lens.
It’s like those cheap ones from neighborhood Chinese stores, I’d rather they use AR glass along with a reflector.
It has been sent I can not return it, but I do not lose much, it was very cheap, I do not think I get to use it, are manias that one has, I would be ashamed to show the flashlight.
On the other hand the S2+ looks professional if it looks well finished and I love to hold it in my hand and show it.
But as you say it doesn’t affect the lighting or so I understand, but it will have limited durability, heat on the plastic or scratches.
I believe the other brands you comment on use plastic in their lenses.
A pity not to take a good look!
I saw several reviews and they didn’t say anything about the plastic and in the pictures I saw it as the transparent S2.
Thank you.
I prefer TIR optics over classic reflectors for their improved beam shape and possibilities. They can create a smooth, floody beam or a focused beam with hard cutoff, but still uniform illumination. And they can be smaller.
I do like the ability to swap one TIR for a different angle beam.
And doesn’t it slow down the amount of brightness for example in the S2+ equivalent with SST40 same led as SC18?
I bought a TIR for the S2+ but I didn’t use it because it was made of plastic, I didn’t like it but I didn’t try it.
Soon it will arrive and I will be able to compare the SC18 SST40 TIR with the S2+ SST40 with glass and smooth.
Thank you very much! this helps me maybe I should have asked before but I threw myself headlong I thought 13€ SST40 and anduril 2 a bargain then I look and there is no anduril and no AR glass. 
Host of Hank’s lights dont come with an AR lens by default either, although they all do have glass in front of the optics. I think he has AR glass for most of them, but for most of them you have to special order it. The only lights I have that came with it are the K1 and a LEP.
Also, AR glass isn’t as important as some people might say, the efficiency gain is relatively small, and especially since the coating is very fragile and easy to damage. Myself, I go the opposite way and I have sapphire lenses in my EDC lights instead for scratch resistance.
I wouldn’t worry about heat - a lot of very powerful lights use TIRs, I’ve never heard of one melting, it would probably be reaching temperatures dangerous for the battery/LEDs/driver before that would happen. A few scratches won’t do anything as the optics blend the beam fairly well; if it ended up completely scratched up it might end up making it a bit less throwy, but it’s a floody light anyway.
That said, I understand where you’re coming from, I don’t have one so not sure how easy it would be to remove the bezel (my TS10’s seems to be glued on) but you could always try placing a very thin piece of something in front of the optics (polycarbonate maybe, or if you could find glass thin enough, if there’s room, might compromise water resistance a little if it’s too thick but rain would probably still be fine, just don’t submerge it.
Another idea: Get a film-type screen protector, cutout a circle of that and put that on the optics. If you’re precise enough and don’t mind a small gap, you could even do that without taking the bezel off.
I am new to this but I thought there is more efficiency playing with the type and shape of the diffuser and an AR glass.
When I saw the all plastic TIR I didn’t mount it that would really scrub the light coming out at least mine 45° I thought it would be a car headlight style glass that would scatter the light like a moon or lens.
And when I saw it I didn’t even mount it, it’s plastic. Just above the led with the temperature it can reach I thought in a month it will be yellow.
But I do not know I have never seen any with TIR only toy Chinese neighborhood that are very bad flashlights, ugly and bad plastic.
I hope the Sofirn SC18 is transparent and better quality than mine.
You are right, the temperature control is triggered earlier.
I will see buying it with the S2+ if it loses much.
On paper it says the same LM 1800 as the S2+ is curious.
I guess it will be transparent.
I’m going to take a picture of a cheap one and it’s horrible. 
Eyeglass lenses are often polycarbonate, a plastic. PMMA is more transparent than polycarbonate. PMMA can take temps to 90C. Polycarbonate is stronger but I have never heard anyone having a PMMA TIR break in use. I don’t about the scratch resistance, but I don’t worry much about that.
Yeah, there is, but it’s only a few percent. Unless you have a boost driver, a fully charged vs low battery probably makes more of a difference.
Sorry, not entirely sure what you mean here - light through a frosted or pebbled TIR is still going to resemble a beam in overall profile, just a less tight one that’s better mixed between the LEDs (less tint shift and brighter/darker spots). If you want it to go in all directions to, for example, light up a whole room, you want a diffuser or a mule.
I have a 9k lm light that uses TIR optics and gets too hot to hold on turbo. No problem with them, they’re generally good quality.
Do you have a ts25? Have you seen the board the LEDs are on? They’re literally marked on the board, 2700K next to two of the LEDs, 5700k next to the other two. Or maybe 5000k I’m going from memory.
Either way, point is it’s like they were all set up to make it dual channel, board is marked for it already, and at the last second changed their mind. Idk, but it’s frustrating lol. It’s like, look what we could’ve done but didn’t lmao
You know how you fix scratches in acrylic? You get it really hot lmao. True story. Usually you’d use a soft flame but a few turbos might do it lol
The cheapest Anduril Light I know of is the Sofirn SC31 Pro from Cutesliving on AE.
It comes with a battery and USB C Charging for only US $18.16
Sofirn SC31 Pro LED Flashlight Powerful Rechargeable 18650 Torch SST40 2000LM Anduril Outdoor Tactical Flashlight
Better make it a hot flame. When flame polishing cut edges on acrylic you need to use a MAP torch for the hotter flame. But be gentle with it 
