Better late than never

:wave: Hi all — started posting on BLF a few months ago but I figured it was time to post in this section too. This community is a great resource and time sink in a good way.

So far I haven’t completed any mods but I have successfully gotten through the disassembly part of the process!

Sofirn SP35 was my first decent light and ever since I’ve prioritized lights that offer good sustained output. Now I have four Convoy 8A buck driver lights: S21D 2700k, S21D 5000k, M21B sft40, S21B CULPM1.

I also lucked out (in retrospect) by getting a lumintop FW1AA after all the great reviews came out but before it was confusingly discontinued. S6 with CSLNM1 and Thrunite catapult mini v1 round out the pocket throwers.

14500 is for everyday use and I currently have a Wurkkos TS10 6000k with orange aux for that after sadly losing one Convoy T3 519a 3000k and breaking another T3 (my fault). Sofirn sc21 and sp10 pro are both great lights that I never use. Will probably pick up more T3’s one of these days even if the stock driver stays at 1.5 amps. A 3000k aluminum ts10 would be great too, 4000k doesn’t look right to me for some reason and I’m not sure I would actually use the brass or copper 3000k ts10’s.

Special thanks to @sb56637 for running this place.

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Also wanted to repost some content from lemmy for safekeeping:

Three Convoy lights with 8A buck drivers for getting the most runtime out of 21700 size batteries. Purchased for $28-$38 each with batteries included I think these are an incredible value.

*white balance is not consistent

M21B with SFT40:

S21D with four 519A 2700k emitters and 60 degree beaded TIR:

S21B with Osram CULPM1:

Extra

##Convoy T3: Almost perfect semi-custom EDC flashlight
Convoy is a personal favorite brand for single-cell mechanical switch lights. I’ve been comparing an s2+ with 18350 vs T3 with 14500, and T3 is my preference as a daily light.

So why is the T3 so great? It’s large for a 14500 but also durable and it has an elongated shape (21mm x 97mm) more similar to larger lights than the short s2+ (24mm x 84mm). Just like the s2+, it’s semi-custom in that the customer can choose from a few LEDs and in the case of the popular 519a choose a color temp from 2700k-5700k. Plus Convoy now offers these lights with MAO or in copper (coated for the T3) or titanium (linked) for more consumer choice direct from the factory.

The biggest downside of the T3 and the reason I keep trying to like short s2+ is the T3 driver. With a limit of 1.5 amps with a 14500, this is only 30% as powerful as the standard s2+ 5 amp driver. That’s still very useable with a 519a, but if it were bumped up to about 2.5 amps I think it would be even better. The driver itself has great reviews and regulates the output such that brightness does not immediately decrease with voltage. And for the DIY-capable, the driver is the same size as s2+’s so it has the potential to be just as powerful.

Thanks so much for saying that @Reader9 , really glad to have you here and happy to know you’re enjoying your time here.

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It’s nice to see you, reader9!

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Wow something about this pic makes me think of film camera photos for some reason, maybe it’s the warm browns of the trees/earth?

Agree with you on suitability of AA/14500 lights for pocket carry, for me, they’re the sweet spot between runtime (18650) and compact size (AAA).

Out of interest, how come the SP10 doesn’t get used?

If you’re feeling brave, and have a soldering iron, they’re not too hard to do an LED swap on…

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Thanks!

I really like Sp10 pro for its unique set of features with Anduril 2, 14500/AA and high CRI. Maybe I should give it another chance. I may be biased toward tail switch lights, and the alternatives I went with each had a benefit (customizable T3 color temps in 519a, tiny size of TS10). The AA support means it usually does get packed as a backup for trips behind the ridiculous reasonable 6 other lights I tend to bring.

I did purchase a basic soldering iron (pinecil 2) with the idea of combining some other lights I bought but didn’t end up using into an s21a triple. Once I buckle down and learn to use the iron I will consider learning to reflow LEDs too (if I understood what you meant).

It’s definitely a luxury to be able to buy finished lights but I assume it would be much more satisfying to modify to my own specifications.

I do have a lot of software development experience so digging into Anduril 2 code is also on my “list” of potential mod projects, but I end up spending most of my down time reading things (see username) since I get a lot of chances to “build” in my programming day job.

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Ah, if you’re a tailswitch fan then yes the SP10 not great.

Yes I meant reflow but never know if newer members of the forum know what that is, plus “swap” sounds less intimidating!

Fellow Pinecil V2 here, I use it with a Dell USB C laptop charger, cable is a bit “bulky”.

I’ve a powertool “power wheels” adapter which I’ve been meaning to wire up, but seems like the barrel plugs on the market only take very thin cables, so I have to order some smaller gauge silicone cable before the project complete.

Edit to add: on subject of re-flowing, I’ve never been able to get enough heat into the MCPCB with a soldering iron. I don’t own an electronics hotplate, I find the “ghetto” tealight candle reflow method works pretty well.