I got this from Simon for existing “stock” options:
219B 2700k ,3000k ,4500k
219C 4000k
219F 5700k
How does the 219F compare to the other 219 options? I am thinking about getting a T4 in one of the cooler flavors.
I am open to other flashlight options as well in the ~$30 price range with good 219 emitters in the Natural to Cool flavors with bonus points for higher “CRI” and not 519A!
I am looking for the classic Maglite 2xAA format with this flashlight and have 14500 batteries so support there is an added bonus.
Simon’s 219F is R9080, essentially just a smaller, less powerful version of the 519A. 219C has lower CRI, and 219B has even lower output. Why would you prefer these over the 519A?
The single 219C I have is a lovely tinted emitter. For a 2xAA flashlight, I care more about the light quality than anything but, a B35AM is out of the question. The 519A flashlights I have are good but, not WOW good. The one 219C I have is a Hank KC1 and was Wow, what have I been missing!
@sidpost This might be true. The KC1 uses a TIR, which is the only usable optic for domed high CRI emitters. A small reflector would produce a nasty beam out of any domed emitter, 519A included.
Could you pls explain - TIA:
What is nasty about it? Ring, tint shift, brownish corona, etc.?
What is different about small reflector vs large, that causes the beam to be “nasty”?
Tint shift is a huge problem in reflectors because they only collect sideways emission, which is yellow/green, while the spill is forward emission only, which is pink/purple. A well-designed TIR can blend them into a neutral beam.
Small reflectors are generally very shallow, and make a very large and pronounced yellow-green spot.
Define white. To my photographer eyes, perfect white means 5700k. Any less has a yellow tint to it. Even 5200k, as in noon direct sun light, is slightly yellow. Dedomed 5700k goes down to 4200k and it is very orange-yellow.
To be fair, maybe to a dark adapted eyes a dim 4200k light can be somewhat white-ish.
Perfect white in the context of what OP asked about. The closest to neutral tint, no angular tint shift, the highest CRI/R9, and the most light in quantity. That to me is the most perfect white available in a flashlight led format. It’s not high-noon perfect white like the sun, it’s what’s available. 519a is available in 80 CRI 6500k and so are a lot of other LEDS but that is much less acceptable than 4200k give or take.
519a dedomed tint is anything but neutral though. Large negative DUV. Domed 519a is quite neutral but suffers from angular tint shift. Domed 519a in a good tint mixing TIR might be the closest to being neutral.
OP is using a reflector setup, not a TIR. I have a 5700K DD that measures about -.006 and that is about as neutral as one can get with requirements they asked for. I would always take a negative dUV over a positive one, and any domed emitter in a reflector setup will have a positive dUV in angular tint shift.
Maybe there is a compromise by taking domed 519A 5700K, and slicing the dome while leaving a decently thick layer behind. Still preserves a cool-ish CCT while getting rid of angular tint shift, with a slight rosy tint to go with it.
Yes, I almost forgot. I actually made one like that. Put a tiny drop of clear silicone sealant on the dedomed 519A glass surface and carefully spread it on the glass. After drying out, you get a high CCT throwy emitter. I had a 5700K 519A I managed to make a silicone layer and restored the CCT to somewhere around 4800-5000k.
Oh this is a really nice idea! I don’t have silicone sealant (which is the best substance for this purpose), but have done it with a thin layer of UV resin, which naturally forms a shallow curved surface on the top that raises the CCT. This is best done with a thin layer of silicone dome remaining on the LED–if the resin is allowed to bond directly to glass, removing it may take the phosphor (or even the die) with it.
