I use my best needle nose pliers (crisp back edges at the tip) extended to fit into the grooves on the lens retaining ring. Sometimes on the lower quality versions of the T20 it’ll still leave a bit of a mark, but it’ll do the trick every time. Patience is key to not gouge anything.
Thanks KKW. Do you have some protective material on the tips to protect the bezel? I’ve tried some forms of electrical tape and heat shrink, but its does not work as expected and makes the function of the tool impractical. Can you maybe post a link to example pliers having ’crisp back edges at the tip’?
You can make all sorts of bezel removal tools, once hardened it becomes very rigid and has work on all my lights. Just drop them in boiling water and push against the bezel to form a mold, and the best part: they can be reshaped again and again.
Hi Will. Mmm, this looks interesting! When one pop the mold out, one can sand off the edges to not damage the inside of the head… One can also tap some thread in the center of the mold and epoxy some kind of handle into the mold for extra grip. Thanks.
Hi Sandalian. Thanks for your tip, good to know. The specific bezel we talk about here (UF-T20) is on the inside of the head, which voids your method. But, its still good to know, for sticky bezels that find themselves outside the head.
I don’t put anything on the pliers tips, as you found out that stops it from working. I looked for some good pictures online since I’m not home to snap a picture, and couldn’t find a picture of a crisp back edge.
I’m a fan of Knipex tools, will browse their catalog for something similar. I’m currently making use of circlip pliers - not the way to go. The sharp points causes too much pressure on the bezel which damages easily. I’m thinking of using your recommendation with a very thin piece of fabric over the bezel, something like a kleenex wipe, just for extra protection. Will check it out. Thanks.
If you want to take a little time to make one that could be used over and over, then you could take a piece of flat plate brass and measure out the pattern on it, drill out the holes and use brass rod stock to stick out the holes a little, solder them in and then you would basically have what they use to begin with. I imagine theirs are steel, but this does work. It's just a little labor intensive, unless you want to do a lot of lights with one.