A friend of mine velcro straps his on top of his helmet.
He cushions it some strips of cloth from a old T shirt.
He also connects a lanyard to it in case it flies off.
Speedsix - My King has never had an uncommanded mode change, even during high impact landings off tall jumps & fast bumpy trail rides. Its the rear clicky lights that can change modes during high impact abuse; usually when the battery momentarily loses contact with the driver or tail spring. A tight fitting battery in the tube with high internal spring pressures is essential in helping to eliminate it.
FX-32 - The RAM mount seems to be the best adjustable one Ive come up with so far for this application. RAM makes a darn good mount for the price, and Ive used a similar model to secure a heavy flight computer to the yoke of my airplane with good results. Amazon.com will pay return shipping if I dont like it. Im waiting to talk to a supplier of heavy duty adjustable LED arrays (typically mounted on fire trucks) before I move forward. Maybe they have something better or can point me in a better direction.
makapuu - Your friend must have very strong neck muscles to support a King strapped to his head. I find 1 x 18650 lights to be uncomfortable - much less something that weights 4 times as much.
Has anyone found a more heavy duty mount to center-mount this light?
If you dont need such long runtimes, you donāt always have to use 4 batteries.
The King works with 1, 2, 3 or 4 batteries.
Why would you want to cram 9A through any less than 4 cells?
If you have access to a machine shop, you may be able to machine a saddle that is contoured to to fit and has tabs that would fit into the slots cut into the sides of the main barrel. A simple elastic latch over the top and you would have a very secure mount for the King. Now if no machine shop, this will be tough.
Polymorph plastic is ideal for this sort of project, pop some in hot water and it becomes hand-pliable and hardens as it reaches room temperature.
Youād just have to check that the torch doesnāt get hot enough to remelt it!!
Itās pretty cheap from ebay etc.
Kafkaesque.
Thanks for the interesting ideas, but Im looking for something that can be bought off the shelf cheaply and that almost anyone can use for mounting this light. The RAM camera mount also offers many mounting options for other types of gadgets. I thought about going with a flat aluminum mount and attaching the King with allan head screws through the rail - but then, thats all it would be good for. With the RAM, anyone with a file or dremel can easily cut the lower rail off the Kingās battery tube, drill and tap it, and have a very sturdy professional looking set-up that can also be used to mount many other things. Its also a quick disconnect design.
More research shows the RAM mount that Im considering to easily handle up to a 5 pound DSLR without problems. RAM also offers a more heavy duty version (at more than twice the price) that can handle up to 10 LBS.
I just ordered the battery holders, voltage monitor and charger.
Im still considering my options for a mount but Im getting close to pulling the trigger on the RAM. Any other ideas?
Could the star nut bolt be replaced with a threaded stud and double nut then thread the Ram onto the stud?
I can see Iām commenting here 4 years laterā¦ 
ā¦.2016, 3d printing is here to help on these projects! Here is my recent little work:
Welcome to BLF andpsz. Thats a very interesting looking mount. Do you have a purchase link for us?
Still developing and should have a link soonā¦check in with me sometime in February!
Nice custom mount you have there, andpsz. Did you use abs for the material? How does it hold up on bumps/rough terrain?
Small updates on my SRK bike light:
Stock original 3 terroid SRK driver with resistor mods for 12A total, XM-L2 U2 1A running @4A each on DTP copper MCPCBS, AR lens, attached to the head stem with RAM adjustable ball mounts (top and bottom), RAM 6ā extension, and powered by a remote 18 x 18650 parallel 4.2V tail pack. The pack was soldered together using 18650ās with tabs, so no carriers were needed.
This is my most used LED light. Before the remote pack mod, I swapped cells so often in the host that I completely wore out the threads! Im considering cornering lights, otherwise its proven to be the perfect light for the type of ridding I do.
Its Laser Sintering, very robust construction. I am not concern about the mount but I am about the light itselfā¦I did some hard impact test on my driveway and the king turned off a few timesā¦not liking that! any tips to fix that? I already taped the batteries to increase the diameter and better snug fitā¦but is still going off.
Maybe losing contact on the springs? That would be my guess. If it is just cuttig off and not changing modes, then there may be just enough movement along the length then the batteries lose contact on the board. Maybe try longer batteries or stretching out the springs a bit?
I agree, could be the length. I learned that protected Panasonic batteries are longer than the unprotected ones (mine). Might need to get those!
Very excited to try it out on trailsā¦Mount worked really well as a first printing attempt.
Even with long protected cells, my SRK blinked on and off constantly before I built a remote cell pack under the seat. The weight of the light with the cells was simply too much and creates a large inertial moment over the slightest bumps. Yours adds a fulcrum from the head becasue it floats in free air, so it exacerbates the problem even more. My SRK also used to dim after 45 minutes of continuous use (30 minutes after my driver mod). Remove the cells from the SRK and build a tail pack for your cells, then you can run for several hours without dimming while maintaining a proper CG across the wheelbase. Hard to believe, but even while adding more weight to the tail with more cells, the bike will handle better after removing the weight of 4 x 18650ās at the front and shifting the weight aft.
Good luck!
I run my older SRK on a homemade mount (has foam surrounding light) along with an Olight M2X-UT (for high beam) on a similar mount as the OP, and have not had any flickering problems or mode switching on either light. I did once mount a cheap HD Defiant light and it would change modes on practically every other bump.
BTW, Iām using unprotected Panasonic button top batteries.
Thought Iād ask here if anyone had the same problem I am having: I have a Skyray King 8x creeā¦using 4x Panasonic 3400mAh batteries. I have been using it for just about 3 weeks nowā¦just the time to make some tests and understand the equipment. Soā¦I am noticing that the Skyray is only using 2 out of the 4 pana batteries that I am fitting in. Everytime I put them to charge (after using for 1h or more) using BT-C3100, it displayās me that two are full?
At first I considered the problem coming from the two āfullā but it wouldnāt make senseā¦then I thought the problem could be in the negative connectors of the skyrayā¦.but I made a test fitting the two āFullā cells on all of the connectors and the light worked in all of them.
So at this point I donāt know what is happeningā¦.I wish my SkyRay can use all 4 cellsā¦.and last double the time!