Bicycling with the SkyRay King - a work in progress.

Hello everyone! Sorry that its been so long since Ive had time to visit. I thought Id share my experiences while using the King as my new mega-bikelight. For the price, there probably isnt anything better suited if a high-powered bikelight is needed. It has very bright flood where its needed and a large blinding hotspot for descent range. The simple on/high/low/off UI and top mounted power button are much better suited for bicycling than lights with tail switches or more modes. A medium mode simply isnt needed and the low mode is still bright enough without blinding oncoming traffic.

I figured out a way of temporarily mounting the King to my bicycle without using shaky hose clamps. Ive previously been using two of these (one on each side of the gooseneck) for my duel C8 XML flashlights:

I was able to cradle the King between the two mounts and lash it down with a long boot lace.

Ive been running the flashlight in high mode continuously the past 4 nights while bike ridding, and it actually runs noticeably cooler than my C8’s! Ambient evening air temperatures have been 68-75 degrees F, and I usually dont go any slower than 15 mph. Although the King gets quite hot while walking around with it in my hand, the air moving past it during bike rides is more than enough to keep it sufficiently cooled. The large surface area of the King does a fantastic job of exchanging heat into the air. I was quite surprised at how well it did; because I had been planning to further cool it with a pair of CPU heatpipe heatsinks if it ran to hot.

The light runs brightly for the first half hour before the batteries start to sag. Ive been using Xtar 2600 mA 18650’s. After being on continuously for around 1.5 hours, its still brighter than my dual C8 XML’s on fresh batteries (ran at 3A+), but not as blazingly bright as when the batteries were fresh off the charger. Ending resting battery voltages from the King have been around 3.75V after the rides… not bad for a long continuous high amperage burn.

Still, it would be even better if voltages above 4V could be maintained throughout the entire ride. I will be looking into adding a remote charging/power connector to the tail end of the host, and also adding an additional 9 x 18650’s in a tail bag under the seat. 13 x 18650’s should do the trick! Since the batteries run in parallel, I can use a simple remote charger to recharge them all at once without removing them from the bike. This will also eliminate the beating the driver takes from the positive 18650 contacts scraping against it each time long cells are swapped out. I’ll terminate charge around 4.16V to get longer life out of the cells.

I was thinking about using 3 of these in my tail bag (1S3P with protection):

and a voltage monitor at the tail end of the bag:

By removing the bottom rail from the battery tube, one of these should work for a sturdy adjustable center mount on the gooseneck:

It uses the standard 1/4 x 20 camera thread, and the host has sufficient aluminum between the battery slots to tap it. The mount has great reviews.

What do you all think? Comments or suggestions are welcome.

Do bumps ever cause it to change modes? It has a light touch switch so that was a question I had.

Very nice indeed!
In my experience bumps don’t affect modes (well, it won’t change modes, in that case it will simply turn off, but that doesn’t happen).

Do you think it can be used with an MTB on the trail with this mount?

A friend of mine velcro straps his on top of his helmet.
He cushions it some strips of cloth from a old T shirt.
He also connects a lanyard to it in case it flies off.

Speedsix - My King has never had an uncommanded mode change, even during high impact landings off tall jumps & fast bumpy trail rides. Its the rear clicky lights that can change modes during high impact abuse; usually when the battery momentarily loses contact with the driver or tail spring. A tight fitting battery in the tube with high internal spring pressures is essential in helping to eliminate it.

FX-32 - The RAM mount seems to be the best adjustable one Ive come up with so far for this application. RAM makes a darn good mount for the price, and Ive used a similar model to secure a heavy flight computer to the yoke of my airplane with good results. Amazon.com will pay return shipping if I dont like it. Im waiting to talk to a supplier of heavy duty adjustable LED arrays (typically mounted on fire trucks) before I move forward. Maybe they have something better or can point me in a better direction.

makapuu - Your friend must have very strong neck muscles to support a King strapped to his head. I find 1 x 18650 lights to be uncomfortable - much less something that weights 4 times as much.

Has anyone found a more heavy duty mount to center-mount this light?

If you dont need such long runtimes, you don’t always have to use 4 batteries.
The King works with 1, 2, 3 or 4 batteries.

Why would you want to cram 9A through any less than 4 cells?

If you have access to a machine shop, you may be able to machine a saddle that is contoured to to fit and has tabs that would fit into the slots cut into the sides of the main barrel. A simple elastic latch over the top and you would have a very secure mount for the King. Now if no machine shop, this will be tough.

Polymorph plastic is ideal for this sort of project, pop some in hot water and it becomes hand-pliable and hardens as it reaches room temperature.

Polymorph

You’d just have to check that the torch doesn’t get hot enough to remelt it!!
It’s pretty cheap from ebay etc.

Kafkaesque.

Thanks for the interesting ideas, but Im looking for something that can be bought off the shelf cheaply and that almost anyone can use for mounting this light. The RAM camera mount also offers many mounting options for other types of gadgets. I thought about going with a flat aluminum mount and attaching the King with allan head screws through the rail - but then, thats all it would be good for. With the RAM, anyone with a file or dremel can easily cut the lower rail off the King’s battery tube, drill and tap it, and have a very sturdy professional looking set-up that can also be used to mount many other things. Its also a quick disconnect design.

More research shows the RAM mount that Im considering to easily handle up to a 5 pound DSLR without problems. RAM also offers a more heavy duty version (at more than twice the price) that can handle up to 10 LBS.

I just ordered the battery holders, voltage monitor and charger.

Im still considering my options for a mount but Im getting close to pulling the trigger on the RAM. Any other ideas?

SKY RAY King look-a-like XM-L 2500 Lumens 4-mode Bike light :wink:

Could the star nut bolt be replaced with a threaded stud and double nut then thread the Ram onto the stud?

I can see I’m commenting here 4 years later… :slight_smile: ….2016, 3d printing is here to help on these projects! Here is my recent little work:

Welcome to BLF andpsz. Thats a very interesting looking mount. Do you have a purchase link for us?

Still developing and should have a link soon…check in with me sometime in February!

Nice custom mount you have there, andpsz. Did you use abs for the material? How does it hold up on bumps/rough terrain?

Small updates on my SRK bike light:

Stock original 3 terroid SRK driver with resistor mods for 12A total, XM-L2 U2 1A running @4A each on DTP copper MCPCBS, AR lens, attached to the head stem with RAM adjustable ball mounts (top and bottom), RAM 6” extension, and powered by a remote 18 x 18650 parallel 4.2V tail pack. The pack was soldered together using 18650’s with tabs, so no carriers were needed.

This is my most used LED light. Before the remote pack mod, I swapped cells so often in the host that I completely wore out the threads! Im considering cornering lights, otherwise its proven to be the perfect light for the type of ridding I do.

Its Laser Sintering, very robust construction. I am not concern about the mount but I am about the light itself…I did some hard impact test on my driveway and the king turned off a few times…not liking that! any tips to fix that? I already taped the batteries to increase the diameter and better snug fit…but is still going off.

Maybe losing contact on the springs? That would be my guess. If it is just cuttig off and not changing modes, then there may be just enough movement along the length then the batteries lose contact on the board. Maybe try longer batteries or stretching out the springs a bit?

I agree, could be the length. I learned that protected Panasonic batteries are longer than the unprotected ones (mine). Might need to get those!

Very excited to try it out on trails…Mount worked really well as a first printing attempt.