spotted skyray 6000lm 3xcree lights with charger and 4 x 4000mah batteries £5.50.
ordered one…… it marked shipped after few days.so ordered another that again marked shipped .went to order third and it jumped to £24 .
a mistake i suspect rather than a sale item.
Have recieved the first one and very impressed with quality and light output.worth the £24(£16 without batt+char),.deffo worth £5.50 lol.
made me laugh they marked the package as wieghing 200grams ,whereas it actually weighed 700gms. might explain why the second ones not arrived yet.
I used the flash on my first picture. Here is an other picture without flash that is more representative of how shiny it is IRL.
I just added some braided wires on both springs. I reduced the total resistance by about 0.15ohms! 
The maximum current is now:
Cell at 3.45V: 1.3A
Cell at 4.15V: 2.9A
Overall, considering the price paid I’m very happy with this flashlight. Now that I modified it it’s almost perfect (just not constant current).
This is my first thrower so it’s impressive!
And you didn’t share that deal??? |(
Nice mod lagman. Congrats.
You probably know this, but just in case. You can dedome that xp-l and not lose any lumens (Most emitters lose about 10% of the lumens when dedomed). Dedomed, your throw will about double.
Do you have a source that shows that the XP-L doesn’t lose lumen when dedomed? I’m curious.
BTW, I posted a new thread about my temps readings…
Here you go. Should open to Post 38.
Cool thread you started there. Interested in hearing what the gurus say about your measurements.
Beat me to it
Thanks! That was very interesting.
It seems that I’m an expert at ruining LED dies…
I was measuring temperature with he thermocouple on the side of the LED die… I already did it at 2A but now I wanted to do it at 3A.
Sorry for the bad quality of my pictures…
Now, WHAT DO I DO? :~
Time to get a noctigon and new xp-l 
Why a new XP-L? This one should still work right?
I’m trying to heat the base of the star to reflow the die in place right now… Is that the right way to fix it? I don’t want to wait for a noctigon to come.
Yea you can fix it that way, best of luck to you, I haven’t had much luck reflowing a blow out like you have. But I am horrid at soldering.
A tip from Old Lumens helped me, put a dab of solder on the bottom of the star before attempting reflow.
Then put a drop of solder on your iron before touching the star, the molten solder hitting the drop of solder on the star will transfer the heat you need to reflow the LED.
Then after clean off the solder off the star with dremel or sandpaper.
HTH
Keith
I give up… I need a new LED, a new star PCB and a new driver…
Where can I buy a Noctigon PCB? I couldn’t find it…
After investigation, I found out that the LED die was not reflowed properly on the star PCB… Only about 20% of the pad was covered with solder when I removed it…
That’s the first theory to explain why the LED fell off at 3A… The second theory is that I somehow shorted the LED with my thermocouple, causing a large amount of current to flow, enough to melt the solder. If I had to bet I would say first option…
I just spent 4 hours on a 4 bucks flashlight. I never think of the hassle vs cost before doing something…
Hey lagman. Sorry to hear about you tribulations. Welcome to the wonderful world of modding. Can be very frustrating and discouraging at times. But, would it really be special if it was always easy?
I believe your theory about inadequately solder on the thermal pad is likely dead on. 3 amps should not have been a issue otherwise. Your emitter is probably fine. Personally, I always buy my emitters and bases separate or reflow if already mounted. It is a very common problem.
Regarding the linked product, it is not a direct thermal path, but it isn't bad. I use those bases in applications under 5 amps. I wish they sold them for XP emitters too. I only use aluminum bases in low current applications.
If you want to continue modding and want to do high current (>5amps) XM type emitter lights, invest in some Noctigons. For XP type emitters over 3 amps, I would also recommend Noctigons unless you know of a source of cheaper non-direct thermal path copper bases.
I don't know where to suggest you buy them in Europe.
I've never tried to measure temps like you are doing. Very cool stuff you're doing with that. I'm excited to learn from your work.
Thanks for your reply.
The emitter is dead, I overheated it and the dome fell off. The wire bondings are broken.
I think that in the future I’ll always re flow the LED if I want to increase current.
Meanwhile I’ll buy a new XM-L2 to replace the broken XP-L… Such a waste of nice LED!