Bit overwhelmed- can someone point me to some circuit schematics for Anduril 2 stuffs

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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Ironically, general practitioners and radiologists thought the issue was pretty obvious, and the ones who missed it were specialists. But yeah, AI would probably be quite a bit better at this stuff, after being trained.

About software PWM, it is possible… but it usually doesn’t look very good. I used it for the 4th channel on my saber, since the MCU only had the ability to PWM 3 pins at once… and it’s pretty difficult to do software PWM without producing a noisy, glitchy signal. It needs to be precise down to a single clock cycle, and that’s nearly impossible on a device with interrupts. I got it pretty close, but sometimes it still has “blips” where an interrupt happened at the wrong time.

So it’s very, very strongly preferred to do hardware PWM instead.

If I ever get sufficient motivation, I’ve been meaning to do a hybrid of the two methods, using something like delta-sigma modulation in software, on top of hardware PWM. This would greatly increase the resolution, and it’s not as interrupt-sensitive as pure software PWM, but it’s still a bit tricky.

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Ya. people miss things. also patients can become experts in their illness. ANd AI aiding doctors is a good tools. and tools are only so good too.

I been diving into builds the last few days. Bought a few flashlights like the fw3a(in purple) and Wurkkos TS25… Still trying to figure out what I want on my emisar d4k… think the 519s in 5k … I am not sure with the second channel though. Do I go floody, Do I get funky with red or green, do I go warm with 519 in 3k. I am problem going to get the TI verson and the d2… So a lot to think about.

I saw the fw3A was user designed… Thats something I can do in my sleep… I am really good at 3d design. Here are 2 sabers I have made. Fully machinable. the second one has been made the other is going to get made. I can probably come up with some interesting flashlights. I have an eye for design and I can make it happen.

[Album] imgur.com
[Album] imgur.com
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64

Nice! Very ornate and industrial.



Usually I go more for ergonomics so the hilt will be comfortable to swing around and do tricks with for a long time. Less detail, but also less hurting myself on parts which stick out of the grip area.

My primary saber is the one I’m holding, also shown here on the bottom. It’s built to be gripped at the narrow black section above the buttons, with an optional second hand below… and a big pommel to catch it by after allowing the hilt to slide.

But probably the most comfortable saber I’ve used was a cheap SF Aeon… which, it seems, is currently on sale for $43. It’s just a simple one-piece (plus tailcap) design with minimal detailing, but is great for practicing.

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OH hey… SF now carrying my relic hunter, I didnt realize they are selling TXQ. Cool.

BTW when I mean designed. I mean from my brain into reality. The relic hunter is asymmetric as I can get with out going more organic. Other one is a bit yoda inspired a bit kylo a bit vader too. You can see some of the SF… I love contrast as a xray tech.

I also have some ideas for flashlights. like a 2 layer system for handles to keep it coolers in the hand and some stylize radiator fins.

also I dont see any big sales for sf.

I just need someone to machine it.

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Oh yeah, of course. Design it in a solidworks type program, then make it exist physically. That’s what I’d do too, if I had the right tools and skills. But I have to let someone else build the hosts, or at least the parts.

FWIW, it looks like maybe something got pasted by accident into the middle of your post? It looks like it could use another edit or perhaps a bit less beer. :beer:

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lol, thats soooo weird. I have no idea what happened there. I was at disneyland with one of my friends earlier. So maybe it caught some of that. Crazy thing is I did have my one beer for the next week or 2, earlier too. I dont drink much. I have ear/vertigo issues.

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I use fusion 360… its more fun and cheaper. soild works is so pricey by comparison.

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New interest unlocked. wallet screams in pain

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I am going to be dropping 800 easy in the next 2 weeks to a month, and about 15k to get one run made in the next few months

I have some ideas for some flashlights, especially with heat dissipation and keeping the handle cool. or cooler…

Ligthsabers are just noisy flash lights fyi

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@ToyKeeper I have an idea for aux lights. But I guess it would depend on how fast it updates. what about a slow shift of color… like tint ramping the rbg so its a slow shift in color verse the sudden change. it would be more satisfying. Its would also be good for the strobe or blinky modes. Like a lava lamp mode.

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The aux LEDs, usually, are not on pins with PWM generators. So it would have to use software PWM, which tends to look glitchy.

Even with that added though, it wouldn’t work during standby mode… because the MCU can’t generate PWM at all while it’s asleep. So the aux colors are limited to only what it can generate passively with the MCU clock stopped.

It has 3 colors, and can set each to high, low, or off. But there’s no point mixing high and low at the same time, because their power levels are so different that it makes low invisible when another channel is high.

So in standby mode, it can do only red, yellow, green, cyan, blue, purple, white-ish, or off. That’s all, unless you can find a way to generate intermediate control signals with the MCU asleep.

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Cool, Just a thought. and the only why would be a rgb driver off the top o my head. but that’s not the super low drain that you want. I figured there was a reason.

So I finally got my first Andruil flashlight… ts25 from wurrkos. Love it. I cant wait for my hank lights. There should be a setting for in the software for the monetary mode. to be able to turn it off without doing a battery disconnect. unless thats a limitation of the software. like a 5H. and it as a setting so you can turn it off and on. if you so choose. So like I have the setting on 5H turns the momentary off. But if I have it off. you just have to battery discon.

So since it wont do rgb fade. How about a bright blink and low blink … so if you are like camping it doesnt bother you.

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“5H” is the numeral “4” in Morse Code, so that exit strategy would not be ideal.

Any exit strategy using button presses kind of defeats the idealogical intention of Momentary Mode.

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It’s a limitation in the sense that it’s not implemented, but it shouldn’t be too hard to add (just add a case for the appropriate clicks/hold you want which calls set_state(off_state, 0);) - you might need to add it before the existing event which covers any click or hold so the new one is evaluated first. There’s also tactical mode on newer builds as well which is an exitable momentary mode with 3 different level slots - if you set all three slots to the same level, it is essentially the same as momentary mode except can be exited with (6C I think? I don’t remember because it’s remapped in the build I run on my lights).

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See this is were we differ… I don’t know moras code… It wasn’t required for the amature radio license when I took it. I do know sign language.

So that’s why I was suggesting that you can turn it on or off too.

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It has 4 user-selectable aux brightness modes / patterns: off, low, high, or blinking. The blinking animation is a simple table in the source code, fairly simple to edit. Any sequence of 0/1/2 works (off/low/high).

Usually the default is low aux in “off” mode and blinking aux in “lockout” mode.

… and on lights with RGB aux, the color can be selected too. There are 7 steady colors and 3 animated (disco, rainbow, voltage). I typically recommend using voltage mode, so it’ll show the battery charge. But I also like combining disco and blinking modes for lockout.

I think you might be looking for the new tactical mode instead… or maybe even lockout (with manual memory set at a useful level).

Momentary (a.k.a. signalling) mode is intentionally “stuck” until battery disconnect, because the point of that mode is that the user can input absolutely any pattern without worrying about whether it will exit and start doing something else. It’s for Morse code and light painting, but also for just messing around. Like, go to lightning mode and then 5C, and it becomes momentary lightning mode.

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A while ago I’ve added these two patterns in my more-aux-patterns branch.

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Oh awesome I will look them over I was just going to brake up the flash into high and low. But if you have done that already. makes it easier.

Ya, I have set for high cyan for off mode, and low batt check in lock out because I have the auto lock out for 10 mins. BTW does the cycle mods and blink take more juice to run?

And maybe I will change it to 5H instead of 5C… because I seem to be triggering it on accident when going to lockout. Thats why I find it frustrating.

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In standby mode, it wakes up 8 times per second. It processes one “sleep tick”, then goes back to sleep. This “tick” of the clock doesn’t do much… it generally just advances to the next frame of animation, which takes barely any time or energy. And this happens in all aux modes, not just the blinking mode. So the animation makes no difference in power use.

The aux brightness matters though…

  • aux off: ~0.03 mA
  • aux low: ~0.08 mA
  • aux high: ~5 mA (really 1 to 15 mA depending on the light and color(s))
  • aux blinking: … is more complicated

The animation, specifically, is:

static const uint8_t seq[] = {0, 1, 2, 1,  0, 0, 0, 0,
                              0, 0, 1, 0,  0, 0, 0, 0};

Doing the math, that’s (5 + (3 * 0.08) + (12 * 0.03)) / 16 mA, or 0.35 mA on average. Or depending on the light, anywhere from 0.1 mA to 1.0 mA average.

So it uses more power than the low aux mode, but only about 1/15th as much as the high aux mode… unless you change the animation, in which case, you’ll have to recalculate the power use.

On top of all that, it checks the battery voltage every 8 seconds. This requires about 0.3 mA to run the ADC, and it runs for roughly 1 tick. Over the entire 8-second cycle, the average is 0.01 mA or less, so add 0.01 to each of the averages above.

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In case someone wants to see a visualization of this, I made a measurement with an oscilloscope a while ago:

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