Loving the idea of this light! Just please make sure there is a true moon mode … So useful.
Not dead yet. I’ve got one hope on a manufacturer. The driver is probably the LD-2M.
And not even dormant- just progressing slowly which as we all see, gives plenty of time to get everything right first time round :+1:
I’d rather see this than a hurried-up mess; patience is indeed a virtue.
Thanks for the persistence T.S. - another worthwhile virtue!
.
Phil
Great news ‘t s’, thanks for the update. 
+1
So true, so true…. well said ‘SM’…… :+1:
This could be good. subbed
I just gave an old 26650 Trustfire A8 a facelift with a 30mm Khatod.
Looks nice!
Texas Shooter any updates?
In talks with someone who might manufacture. It’s a slim chance, but I’m not giving up yet.
Just an FYI, Cutter has a quad board and the 35mm Cute 4 optic that fits it(or at least they used to) as well as the 35mm GT4-XPS optic that also fits but I wasn’t terribly impressed with either as neither one approaches the cute-3 in throw. The GT-4 does have an extremely low profile(8-9mm) but is a very floody beam and the cute-4 isn’t much better. The only place I find them usefull is for mtb night riding over rough terrain where widespread close in illumination is needed.
Sounds good TS
Thanks for the heads up on them. I went with a triple to try to get the most throw with a TIR I could. Granted even then it’s not the throw light in any sense other than with sheer output.
This project almost died until a driver arrived that might just be the one. http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2249 I wrote to Ric at CNQuality goods as he has this driver. In the E-mail I asked if the output current could be bumped up to 4 amps and he says, Yes. That will allow 2s2p in XP-G3’s or XP-L’s or go the more simplistic route of XHP-50 or 70’s. It’ll still work with tail switch and side E-switch allowing a true off without parasitic drain. So 3000+ lumens in a single cell 26650 light.
Just playing with numbers XP-G3 S6 863 lumens each in a quad, XM-L2 U3 884 lumens each, XP-L V6 927 lumens each
XHP-70 P2 3517 lumens as a single LED
Those listed numbers are from the Cree charts and don’t take anything else into account like heat, optic efficiency, etc.
Just one switch - an e-switch on the side has its positives:
1) The parasitic drain can be made really really low - as Zebralights have shown.
2) A small beacon can be put next to the side switch - to make it really easy to find in the dark.
3) DB’s drawing shows how much shorter the light can be made by removing the tailswitch.
Or better yet, just ask Manker to build their U21 but to our specs with a shorter head for an optic instead of their deep reflector. Its got a nice e-switch, 1x26650 body, and a built-in charger port!
Nice! Is it mostly a flood light? Your beamshots appear to be so but can’t quite tell.
Your build goes to show that we don’t need a big head to fit a quad optic into it - the head can be the same diameter as the body. In that case, a slimmer Shadow JM20 body may be all that’s needed. All we need to do a find a supplier to sell us a bunch of empty JM20 hosts really cheap.
[/quote]
Just one switch - an e-switch on the side has its positives:
1) The parasitic drain can be made really really low - as Zebralights have shown.
2) A small beacon can be put next to the side switch - to make it really easy to find in the dark.
3) DB’s drawing shows how much shorter the light can be made by removing the tailswitch.
Or better yet, just ask Manker to build their U21 but to our specs with a shorter head for an optic instead of their deep reflector. Its got a nice e-switch, 1x26650 body, and a built-in charger port!
[/quote]
Parasitic drain is there, some of the people I work with leave the light in the holster for months when on a day shift. I’ve personally prefer two switches; on/off and mode selection. A lot more flexibility when you can tail tap without scrolling through the modes again.
If it does go with one XHP-70 I’ll be looking to see if any TIR’s in the 34-40mm range can compete with the same size reflector. I really want the 35mm body tube and tail cap as used in the Convoy L2/L6 series. This heavy body serves a few purposes;massive heat absorption, strength, and potential if defensive strike is needed. 40-45mm head so it can still be used in a holster.
DB’s drawing is a beautiful flashlight would love to use it with the exception of a thicker body. I’ve used lights at incidents on high until the batteries died. The option for less amps to light an area because it’s 100 outside and my hand is melting may not be in my best interest. Just trying to put together an over built practical flashlight that doesn’t get left at home or in the car because it won’t fit a good holster.
Right now most use Streamlights Stingers or the SL-20 series. Biggest grip is not enough light, too big and short run times on over used batteries.
I’m rambling again. Thanks to all who have helped out.
I will chip in my two cents worth and ask that the tail switch be a forward clicky, which I think the OP implied. If this is going to be a tactical light, one really doesn’t want to have to turn the light on first, and then have to hold the switch down to keep if off if all one wants is a momentary flash.
If you use 4 sq.mm die under 15-16mm tir lens, all such optics will be very floody. Try XP-E2 to see difference.
Cutter boards are serial (4S). Is there any boost drivers from 1cell to 12v within more that 1.5Amps? See #1 (XP-E2 
)
You will never be impressed with throw of multi-emitter lights in difference with smaller quantity emitter ones. More leds in same diameter, less OD of each lens part and less throw.
If we go with a mechanical tailcap switch, I vote we program the firmware so that the side e-switch goes from completely OFF, then moon, med, high, turbo. This way, if some of us don’t want to use the tailswitch at all, we can leave the tailswitch clicked on all the time and use the side e-switch to turn it off.
One good aspect of the manker U21 is that it has an LED under the side e-switch button so that the button can be programmed to blink constantly and easily located by the user.
Ultimately, I believe a project like this will require an overseas company to do most, if not all, of the machining/anodizing to keep costs down.
In fact, if the machining is done here in the US, we can forget about anodizing at all in the US because it is too costly.
There are US ano houses that have minimum lot charges of $25. Ano is only going to add a couple dollars at most to the overall cost of a light.