What leds, what battery, what ledboards are you using?
xm-l2, lg hg2 or panasonic 18650b, blf a6 direct drive fet+1 board
+1
I, 6 from 1st batch
All works fine with XM-L/XP-L on Noctigon star
they all worked fine at first but after a while I couldn’t change modes and then it wouldn’t turn on.
Did you resolder the LED wires from the driver? I bumped some thing on one of my boards and i lost some modes i will find the driver on here.
Its a part of learning I have stuffed a few drivers of different kinds. Hahaha i tried to solder 7135 and they went flying across the room. I do not have steady arms.
Does the driver spin when you tighten up the retaining ring? I had that happen also with the drivers. I have stuffed LEDs tightening up bezels.
Did you buy the A6 or the X6 driver? What attiny version is it?
just heated up the legs to melt the solder and moved the negative wire to the ground of the mosfet.Driver sits tight under the ring, no movement. I think my springs may be bad too, they squished and went flat lol, thus shorting out and the light would not turn on. Also on my eagle eye x6 and the convoy s8 only short unprorected cells seem to work, the longer ones squish the spring to a pancake, thus not working, haha.
the a6 dd17 or something, it was cheaper than the other 5€ ish vs 8 ish
attiny13 Ibthink
Yea it shorted out. So the springs melted you will need to change them.
Some thing some where has to be shorting out. Is the reflector touching any wires in the head?
no, battery was too long, so it shorted, nothing seems to be touching, an other time the driver was fine but the led fried, when I had on high mode as the first mode, maybe the amps spiked for a second and fried it, although running close to twice the rated current won’t do you any favors itlr.
also can’t get the ld-3 driver to work, same thing stuck in high mode and programming the ld-3 driver requires an engineering degree lol. The ld-3 sucks,although some nice features, but can’t access any programming menus.
a right nightmare to get to any of the settings. I think I will go back to using some simple 3 mode drivers for the xhp50’s like the fx6 that I have or a 3 mode from kd
It takes heaps of force to fully compress a spring even if compressed i dont think it would short? You need the positive to touch the ground ring and in most lights that wont happen. Can you take a pic of the driver? Even if i squash the spring down my samsung 25r just fits. Well it will hit the ground ring but it still has the cover on it so it shouldn’t ground.
The LED is weird are you using a Copper MCPB? I have direct driven aluminum boards and where okay. After time they will die i guess faster then the direct thermal path boards.
I dont know any thing about the LD-3 Djozz will know how to work them?
plain alu board, should have went copper, but not the right size at the moment, well it works now though,(blf driver that is) ditched th ld3. No worries, is the attiny 25 x6 driver any better than the cheaper a6 driver though?
Don’t know what you’re doing but it’s most likely part of your process and not the driver. I’ve used way more than 5 of those from Banggood and they all work fine, single emitter set-ups have no flaw it’s only when going to much higher amperage with triples and quads that the issues raise up.
The FET won’t allow any more current to flow than a direct connection to a cell, and all of the single emitters are capable of running wired up straight to a cell with no driver, so I can’t see the driver being at fault blowing emitters. However, if something you’re doing is causing a positive short circuit then yes, drivers and emitters and springs will fail every time.
Edit: using an aluminum star with no DTP with an FET driver will indeed overheat the emitter and kill it. A SinkPAD aluminum star with DTP can run it ok, copper works out best in my own experience… not just copper but the Direct Thermal Path is still essential.
When using an aluminum star, you’ll know it’s the culprit because the light will start turning blue just before it dies. 
I bought some of these they are okay. I got 4amps at the tail cap from them. So not bad. I bought them for cheap lights.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1124800
These are cheap i have a bought a few i cant remember the difference between the 105c/d. I think its different firmware.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1186301-8-amc7135-2-group-2-5-modes-led-flashlight-driver
yeah, I guess something shorted, I’m not claiming to be an expert lol, probably something I did, oh well that’s part of modding I guess, If you want no problems I guess just stick with stock lights, but no fun in that. What is the difference between the two blf drivers though? I got the a6 cheaper version, is the other one better ina ny way?
Are there two versions? Should just be the one A6, and then Bistro. They’re different in quite a few ways and similar in many ways as well. Mostly the UI in the MCU is different.
hm yeah the nanjg ones seem good.In a few lights I actually have the new red convoy amc 8x 7135, with new firmware, works well.
one for the x6 with attiny 25 and the a6 one with attiny13, attiny 25 being more pricey