I tend to use firearms much more than flashlights. I’m looking at the BLF A6 and the Astrolux S41/S42 and thinking they are the perfect size for a compact weapon light. It should fit large pistols and everything else on up. So my question to everyone who thinks “That might work.” How? From the initial look over it needs a off/turbo/strobe or similar modes only switch. The BLF A6/Astrolux S41 could be mounted with a simple ring. On a pistol the switch would have to be different. The Astrolux S42 with a new U.I. and epoxy filled head might just be perfect in a pistol light. My desire with this post is a little momentum and maybe a couple of really good ideas that help get a build.
IMHO much too big for a pistol- YMMV. I’d lean more toward a TK703 w/10440 for shorter bursts of a tight target-oriented beam. Gets hot fast, so not for continuous use. Some spill and a ringy beam but quite the tiny thrower :sunglasses: You’d have to rig a switch but would be easy with the lower amperage. Just got a single-mode C8 for my ‘Scout Rifle’ project 
Good enough for my intended range, my BLF M24’s will handle the longer ranges.
Phil
S42 seems awful wide girth in the switch area.
I’d be more inclined to use E14 or S41.
Not really a fan of the Gun Mount anyway as it gives an easy target for return fire
and limits your flashlight options.
To me, an E14 first gen with rear switch would be perfect for Harries technique
And could easily have a rail mount option that would allow quick mounting
if needed, and not interfere with off gun use of the rear switch.
I’ve got the 18350 S41 in hand and if mounted to a Glock 21 half the bezel is below the barrel. Can’t use the switch in this condition and the modes are wrong. On the S42 it could be done but the U.I. is still wrong. With the Aspire INR18350 2000 lumens would give an incredible flood lighting up a football size area. I need all the spill I can get weapon lights also identify targets to either side of the primary. I brought the idea up to my gunsmith who’ll try a few ideas.
for a weapon light it would be ideal that it is switch on as you touch the trigger
or you got a switch touched by your thumb
Usually for pistols there is a pressure switch somewhere on the grip. Never seen anything with a switch on the trigger.
Personally, if I were to put a light on one of my guns, I would want something with an aspheric lens. Tightly focused light on where I intend to fire. A small light with 18350/16340/14500… Run time would not be important to me on a pistol. For a riffle I would shoot for something about c8 size with an aspheric. Again, run time wouldnt be too important, but lens size for better throw would be
You could always leave the driver floating in the pill. Potting resin would do the same trick.
Could we build a detachable mount into the light it’s self? It would be good to see some high quality pressure switches made for rifle use.
There was/is good pressure plate switches for lights kicking around. Had a couple that replaces the tailcap switch internals. Not sure but I may have them kicking around. Never was big on weapon mounted lights though.
Another thing to look into would be using a colored emitter to help keep your night vision. If I remember right, red, green, and blue are good for that
Using a weapon mounted light, you are going to be using it in short bursts. All the spill and bright light will kill night vision. A more focused light, and using specialty colored light, will help keep night vision
I’m trying this from a LEO perspective. Have to 100% identify the target before shooting. No body should ever put the switch on the trigger. I’ve tried some of the ground work on the techniques. Nobody can really look for light targeted return fire at 2000 lumens.
I’ve tried with 1200 lumen XP-L at 50’ at night we can’t really look towards the light. Those people who think super bright lights have a defensive purpose for dazing and disorienting got part of it right. Looking at older 50-200 lumen lights wasn’t too hard. 1200 hurt and destroyed my night vision. Granted it’s the candela but I need total area flooding target identifying first.
Silly idea. If the Astrolux S42 has an electronic switch and a micro USB port. How hard would it be to also use that port as an additional electronic switch plug in port? And when in that configuration that port only has on/off or on/off/strobe at turbo brightness. A cord pressure pad could be placed any where. Short for pistols and long for everything else.
Would prefer one with side off and on switch, no pressure switch.
This is defiantly possible from a modding stand point. Atleast with the s42 being an eswitch light. Different story with the S41 with clicky switch though. I have yet to find a pressure switch commercially that can handle anything over 2.5amps or so. the resistance is too high for high power and limits the current while heating up quickly.
It really boils down to intended use and engagement distance. For most cases, such as home defense, I feel a Streamlight TLR-1 HL is a great option for pistols. Quite a bit more expensive (~$90.00 USD) but potentially worth it depending on the application.
However I’d be cool with using an A6 in 4 modes with mode memory and the Graham technique. Training and familiarization are key.
Absolutely- there is no ‘one size fits all’. I do believe however that any weapon-mounted light needs to have a beam pattern and intensity which ensures safety in case of a miss (safe backstop rule) and illuminates the muzzle-blast area adequately where an innocent may be found or unacceptable damage may occur. There seems to be a fair number of people who lean too far toward a ‘militaristic’ viewpoint where some collateral damage is acceptable when that is only true in an all-out war scenario. Glad I’m not seeing that here I’m personally of the mind that one never points a weapon at anything which you do not intend to shoot, so a weapon-mounted light should not be your primary investigative illumination, only an aid to use after the danger has been clearly identified and located. YMMV on that point; I wont debate it. Whatever you do in life, think it through clearly and deeply ahead of time and you’ll be far more likely to make the best decisions 
Phil