The problem isn't with focus as much as how much light is wasted if the little lens on the die spreads more light to the sides than an XR-E. To use the emitters efficiently, you need an aspheric with short focal length, ie deep, which isn't how most of them come.
Yes ill forward this info to Jim@manafont to see if he can talk to tank about optimizing the lens to the emitter. You seem to know a lot about this stuff. Thanks!
It would be nice to have a TK-567 with an R2 or R5 AA/14500 3 modes, M-L-H.
I've came across review of TK-737. http://lightreviewers.com/2011/04/tank007-tk-737-review.html
Not much info about lens, but two things cached my eyes:
- Material: Aircraft grade aluminum (HAIII)
- Coated clear glass lens
Would be fine if Jim can prove those two statements, and yes prototype should be seen before.
in for 567.
L/H/M
like many mentioned, would like a clip, and engraving.
how about a good driver for AA only. if this is gonna be my EDC, i will probably use NiMH only.
besides clip, are there any other accessory for 567? like diffuser, red/blue/green lens?
You don't wanna meet Dr.Jeckle..
I agree a light should have memory or start on low not high .To cover a light to avoid modes is like saying flashing disco stuff is ok just cover the light while switching modes .
Generally I'd say a blf light should be a edc ..so smallest would be best but I have no idea how to make a e07 a multi mode light .
Again I think not being able to pick emitters and drivers for me would be a deal breaker .
what?
i guess it could have been a nauga-HYDE crack.
my edc is a d-10 that is pretty close to perfect for me. L>M>H, hidden flashes. runs on anything. got me into this ridiculous habit.
it was also 50 dollars (not bad, actually compared to what i see they sell for e-bay), and is a little small for my ham-like hands. the 567 in the right format could fit this usage and for less than half.
I think it's important to be realistic about what they can do for us. They can change the emitter, provided it's to a similar type or an existing reflector that fits is readily available. They can change a few lines in the microcontroller to shift the modes around. I don't think they'll make a new lens for us, or add new controller onto circuit board as Don already alluded to, or break the laws of physics.
I'm interested in the first two, but I agree that a low low would be difficult without really noticable PWM.. 4 modes seems too much to me on a twisty as well.
The single most important factor for me though would be that the lights would have to use OP reflectors, if not I can't trust the beam will be good and won't take a gamble. My last E07 had a horrible literally pea green tint and a very ringy beam with a donut hole too so I would opt for the Cree with an OP reflector in both if possible.
Welcome aboard, RedForest!
Aloha and welcome to BLF RedForest UK!
Why's that everyone is so convinced that PWM will be an issue in low low mode? BLF-VLD'ified 47-AK driving R5 has low that is way lower (I mean waaaaaaay lower) than moonlight on 4Sevens Quark (which is ansi rated for 0,8 lumens) without any PWM-flickering that can be recognised with an Eyeball mk.I observation device. If it can be done with 2$ driver and 10$ worth of ebay electronics for reprogramming, I'm pretty sure that industrial factory can do it as well.
I think one reason why some have "doubts" is because the last BLF MrLite had this problem of very low and low being approximately equal and you had to click through both to get to med/high.
If I understood it right, efficiency vs. high PWM is a problem, you either get stellar runtimes in moon-low, or achieve a high PWM. Even the excellent Zebralights have this issue and they opted for runtime.
Yes, good point.
Hi everyone, here's a quick update:
They are able to engrave a custom model name and/or BLF logo, shouldn't cost much more says Jim.
The "R2" upgrade for the TK-567 was a mistake, it would actually be upgraded to an "R5", which I assume means XP-G.
Jim is now waiting for a response from Tank007 about a <1 lumen low mode.
I agree that PWM flicker on a low mode is a legitimate concern. The BLF AA-Y4E (the first customization) was actually the first light in my collection for which I could notice the PWM. And it was AWFUL! Since then, I also own a Solarforce Skyline 2, which also exhibits TERRIBLE TERRIBLE PWM on the lowest setting. But I have other inexpensive lights with a nice low mode that don't exhibit any flicker. Especially the Ultrafire UF-H2 headlamp has a wonderful low mode that doesn't have any visible flicker. And I have very sensitive eyes. So, this one's going to be a bit hard to predict.
BLF logo and XP-G.. These are great news! Thanks Admin!
Mr. Admin and Jim, do you think we can get average amp-readings upfront from Tank? Especially on NiMHs.
We can try! I'll ask Jim.