BLF DIY Modding Project Thread

LED Flashlights – General Info
17

I think a lot of it is location. So many countries around the world and it's hard to get the same light in all of them. Seems like buying from china is the only way to have everyone get the same thing. Of course, that is based on the thought that the vendor will have the lights "in stock", which might be a problem.

Don't know anything about P60 but I assume it's a small light (only a 26mm diameter reflector), so the high powered emitters are sort of a waste, since the reflector is too small to really handle the output of the emitter, like an XM-L, but the XM-L is so cheap now, it's a mute point I guess.

P60 sounds like it's probably best for all the beginners that want to find out about how a light works and if they want to really mod or not.

Different tastes for everyone might make it harder to determine the exact drop-in, emitter and board. Just the kind of thing that happens when a bunch of people get together, but I'm sure it will be worked out.

According to Battery Junction, the P60 module, Fits to the following lights:


Blackhawk Falcata, Boker B0006, Brinkman Legend, Maxfire (LX models on both), Cabela's XPG (Xenon models), Dereelight CL1H (all Versions), DealExtreme {DX} HF-19, SKUs' ~ 1284, 4226, 14329, 14597, 14902, 15159 (DIY chassis), 15565, 15561 & OEMs, G&P T6, T9, T12, R12, Hellfighter X-4, X-8, Huntlight FT-01PJ, FT-01X SE (Luxeon versions on both), Kaidomain KD Tough, & OEMs, Leupold MX series w/ MX-100 bezel, M812, Mega CREE Q2, Nextorch (vaious models), Pelican M6 (newer version M6)...Slight modifications needed, PentagonLight X1, Xenon chassis {to be confirmed}, Pila GL2/3/4, Romisen RC-E4, RC-M4, RX-A, Smartfire A-1,T1, Solarforce L2, SF6, SF9, SF12, Spiderfire Q5, R2, X-O3, Superfire C1, see Ultrafire models, Surefire {SF} 3P, 3R, 6, 6P, 6PD, 6PL, 6R, 6Z, 7Z, 9P, 9Z, C2, C3, D2, D3, G2, G2L, G2Z, G3, G3L, GZ2, M2, Z2, Z3, Various Weaponlight models, Tactical Operations Products Stryker (slight modifications necessary), Xenon models, Trustfire T1-Q5, TR-B1/2/3, TR-C1 & 2, TR-Q5, TR-C2, Ultrafire 6P, 9P, 12P, C1, Alpha-C1, L2, WF-501A/B/C/D, WF-502B/C/D, WF-503B, Wolf-Eyes (See dimensions), XLight HA-III Cree Q3 kit, HA-III Cree Q5 XTAR P4

Here is the link to that information.

There are probably more that it fits.

18

I would like to mod my 502b MC-E to XM-L and stick in a good 2.8 A 3-mode driver. Then maybe I can stick my MC-E into something else.

19

For a first time mod?

Very inexpensive and made for the P60 drop-ins. Keeps the price down for newbie modders.

20

I'll re-post this from my response in the "I want to learn how to mod a flashlight" thread. Note that I have never built this myself, nor do I even own a P60 light (I know, I know, I'm on it!). I am also very limited in my modding experience. This would certainly be more expensive than buying a "ready to use" light, but it's for the experience and learning. I suppose you might be able to have people pick their own emitters. You could even have people pick their own drivers, however posting instruction on where to solder leads would differ depending on which drivers everyone is actually using. People could also choose whether or not they want an OP or SMO reflector (after learning differences of each - or teach how to take an SMO and make it more like an OP?). If all participants could easily get a Maglite I would definitely say a Maglite should be one of their first mods (if not the first). There can be a lot more "modding" as opposed to just "building". And then there is the "wow" showing it off (since many people would already be familiar with a Maglite). In this case I don't think a Maglite is appropriate.

Ok, here's the repost:

For a project I was thinking an Ultrafire 501B host , empty p60 drop-in module, XM-L T6 emitter on 16mm base, lots of choices on drivers - try this out - or in the US here (and already modded to 3mode). You might need Teflon wire like this or this. That driver is a 1.4A on high which might be better suited for that 501b host (from what I hear - I have no experience with this setup). You could jump to the 8x7135 for 2.8A high, but then you have to watch the heat.

You could also try a Maglite mod. My first "real" mod was putting a drop-in into a Mag running on 2 Li-Ions. Not too difficult. You wouldn't be doing much with the driver though since it's pre-wired and attached.

I think the above is a good simple get your feet wet usable type build. Not really a mod, but building from separate components.

-Garry

(Others feel free to chime in on anything I linked as not being well suited.)

21

I think, a p60 host would be great, because many people have one or more, it's cheap (like the most parts of a p60 host). The next point is - everyone can choose how much money and experience time he wants to invest.

If the aim is: Much experience - everyone can start with the part garrybunk named (don't forget thermal glue - needes to glue the star on the pill and you have to isolate the wires on the star - if they touch the reflector you have a short circuit. You can vuy this: Isolator or cut of a piece of thicker paper and lay it between the wires and the reflector).

It's also possible to choose a warm white, neutral white or cool white LED.

For everyone, who do not want to buy so many things, can buy a ready drop-in and change only the driver. I think this is interesting for all, who want no blinky-modes and don't want to buy the $16 3 mode Manafont drop-in.A new nice driver cost less than $5.

Good drivers are these, because you can select the modes you want with soldering. Each driver has 8 different mode selections, a low voltage warning, mode memory can activated, too. For everyone, who want a hard driven XM-L (about 3A, think about the heat) could take this one.

For a bright but not extrem hard driven XM-L take this one with 2,28A.

I don't like the 501 body. I would prefer one of these (cost $7,99 or $8,12)

Ultrafire 504 in silver or black. If you like a nice design, take the skyray (clone of the Lumens Factory Seraph p6).

If you want a small funlight, take this 501 mini body for 16340 (cost $5,89).

22

This is a good idea. I read the other thread here talking about this, which lead to this one. The vote for this is a little ambiguous at best, but here are my brief thoughts:

The host should be a P-60 (insert flavor here). Combine that with with a bare drop-in, a 1.5a or 2.8a 7135 driver, and xp-g / xm-l emitter of your choice (I favor the 1.5a/xp-g combo). That's it...

Why? Because most mods that can be done to a flashlight can be taught and practiced on with that set-up. For example...

  • What is a pill?
  • How to mount a LED
  • Understanding Lapping and thermal paste
  • How to install a driver
  • How to solder
  • Basic tailcap switch assembly/disassembly
  • Troubleshooting continuity issues (main cause of failure here!)
  • Understanding heatsinking (or lack thereof)
  • How to improve heatsinking for high wattage applications
  • Reflector differences
  • O ring replacement and lubrication
  • Battery fitment issues

Remember, we're not trying to build the ideal light (yet) but more to offer a universal training aid. C8's, Maglites....they're all excellent for modding...but don't offer the universal utility of the P-60. Besides, once the above list is understood and mastered courtesy of our 'lil P-60 trainer, all sorts of fun and exciting mods become feasible :)

23

I liwhere're your heads at match. Seems lIke your idea will be a great first light project. Like you said this is the first learning light not the perfect light were building. I hope everyone involvedloan decide on something soon.Im itching to order parwill owing it will take at least a couple of weeks to get all of the parts.

24

If learning is the goal, make sure the driver you use doesnt have the wires already soldered on. Once you can do that, you can do almost anything.

25

Only c8 sized light with a p60 pill I know of is the trustfire tf-r2. Only know because I have of and I’m sure there is more. I can check if my new unique fire that I believe is a c8 style light has compatible hardware like reflector. The remote pressure switch is compatible. I think the mxdl 3w pocket rocket mod would be a good starting point for a mod project

26

OK, not sure what the poll options are (dunno if I missed something), but I am ALL IN for a "starter class" on building a custom mod. P60 would be ideal for me as I already have a P60 host that's pissing me the &^$% off (2 different drop-ins both flaking out, swapped switch, etc). Then meants that I also have a drop-in that I have no issues with gutting (annoying 5-mode flashing BS).

Subbing to this thread, but if I should miss something, by all means please let me know where this goes.

ETA - I have no problems going with another format either. Keep getting halfway into reading up and getting my parts list together for a build, but something always seems to come up and I get sidetracked and well...you know how that goes. I'd LOVE to do a Mag build too as I have 3x 4D ones sitting there gutted.

27

+1 for the WF-504B, cheap as chips while still being a quality P60. I have a 501B and while it is only ~$7 I would rather spend $2-3 more for the 504B.

28

+1 501 is just bad. 504 is a pretty nice host.

29

So it seems most people want a p60 host? Is that the consensus? I want to start ordering

30

P60 is an old format, developed by the US Army 20years ago for soldiers in combat who needed speed to replace incandescent burnouts. It is a poor idea for modern LEDs.

Heatsinking is terrible.

Far better, buy a cheap $9 C8 on Ebay and redo it with emitter, driver, lens, switch and reflector.

Get the best out of an XM-L.

31

The tf-r2 has a deeper reflector than my c108 that I believe is a dressed up c8. Seems to be a majority want a p60 build. Why not just do a p60 pill? Then they can drop it in to what ever they want.

32

Its the P60 drop-in build/mod that is the crucial learning objective. Maybe I'm being stupid but does which P60 host we use really matter? Folks can use the host of their choice.

P60 host heatsinking techniques like "foil filling" or adding alu strips are pretty much universal and do not need to be demonstrated with a specific host. Obviously some hosts might be a better/tighter fit for drop-ins than others but that can be true of two specimens of the same model.

I would say that teaching a P60 drop-in build would equip the new modder with the core skills of this hobby.

Later modules could look at repairing, modding or replacing tail switches. While a Master Class topic could be reflow soldering emitters to stars, something than even a lot of frequent modders have never done, myself included.

33

All true. Also, all anyone has to do is look here http://flashlight-wiki.com/DIY_P60

34

All right I'm in for the p60 drop in. Now we just need someone who knows what they are soon to get us started

35

P60 pill will be simple 1st class, remove old emitter and driver, solder wires on new driver, solder new driver into pill, solder wires to new emitter, mount and center new emitter. Need someone who’s good with photos and step by step explaining to do up a how to. It would basically be intro to soldering class

36

I agree Why not do an interesting host and do a group buy on it ...buy a bunch of emitters and drivers and go to town .I like the edit t-6 if you're gonna do a small reflector light why a p60..doesn't every schmo have 1000 of them already? Lets do something different on a different body that not 100 people here already have .I mention the edit because it's a decent build ..the pill unscrews and it's as easy to mod as a p60 except the reflector isn't going to just screw on for you .

http://www.edi-t.net/wordpress/wp-content/gallery/e4/exp_E4.jpg

http://www.edi-t.net/wordpress/?p=201#more-201

Lets at least do an interesting light ..even if it's just like the edi e-4 ..1AA zoomie...(god I like the blue )