BLF DIY Modding Project Thread

I think the p60 is the easiest format to work on. Once the noobs make it they can put it in any host of their choosing. It's really just learning to solder and how the components go together. If they can put together a p60 pill from components they can build or repair any light.

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special BLF colour (sorry for spelling but I am English).

Dave

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My son and I were at a International kart race in Charlotte and the father of F1 driver Ant Davidson said to us "Yes 2 countries separated by a common language"

I'm new here, but would it be too much to ask to start with the P60 and then do a followup thread with a C8 build-up using the techniques we learned on the P60 build? I'm getting ready to put together two P60 lights for mine exploring, but looking at the C8 has me thinking I would like one light a bit bigger than the P60.

Beggars can't be choosers so I'll follow along with whatever format is decided upon.

Thanks!
Joanne

I think everyone agreeing on one group build is unlikely.

P60 seems to be the easiest, but with poor heatsinking it shouldn't be used stock with something high powered like an XM-L, unless it's just kept at a lower amperage, like under 1amp. But there are so many lights out there that "look great". It's almost impossible to pick one.

I started my build and have parts on order.

It's a P60 and I don't care if it burst into flames when I'm done as long as it works for over 10 seconds.

I spent more on things that didn't work that long........................

I can't even tell you haw many 3.5 amp XML drop ins I have sold not to mention all of the Manafont 3 mode direct drive XML drop ins all the nailbenders every generic direct drive XML DX, KD ,and DD sell at well over 3 amps and guess what no stories of the P-60s or batteries bursting into flames or burning the owners or there houses down. There has to be thousands of 3+ amp XML P-60s out there in use being used and abused everyday.

Never implied they were blowing up. Just saying that putting a high powered emitter on a tiny hollow brass pill and running at 3A just stresses the emitter because it gets too hot too fast. Just because there’s thousands out there dosen’t mean it’s the proper way to heatsink an XM-L. That’s all

A p60 build is my preference. Then I could choose a 1.5 amp driver for a high cri xpg.

I think the same.

Recently I made a P60 with:

-XM-L U2 1A

-NANJ Driver with 10x7135 @ 3.5Amps - 3 Modes (100%, 35%, 7%)

-Textured reflector (P60 isn't for throw, neither XM-L, so I think textured is better than Smooth in this case; I compared them and got better results with textured)

-504B (Strange 504B I think, not as we usually see around here)

-Aluminium foil

Today it's hot here, and I kept turned on for 10min at 3.5A, it was hot but I can touch it and the led didn't smoke (I had 501B at 2amps that in around two minutes, the led smoked a bit)

I'd suggest a low power P60

Host in in a no-risk WF-501a.

Yes, it's a little single-cell host (18350 size, or CR123 with room around it)

I've been using a Nailbender in mine with a very tight copper tape wrap.

Easy to get into.

Then once people understand overheating -- and heatsinking -- and power problems

as the second one

do a C-8 (I gather "C8" has the led inside/on top of a threaded ring that fits threads in some host lights -- a list of C-8 lights would be most welcome)

set up that would allow multiple batteries.

If it weren't a thermos, defeating any hope of cooling, this'd be a nice host to mod - for a ceiling bounce light (-:

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/nican-2470mm-nikon-lens-themo-vacuuminsultion-cup-stainless-steel-inner-container-p-8963

More seriously, how's this as a possible C8 host for 2nd build?

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/pailide-glk79-c8host-cree-led-mode-flashlight-18650-p-7998

This is the cheapest C8 I have seen.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UltraFire-C8-CREE-Q5-Tactical-Flashlight-Torch-Light-/160718367346?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item256b8faa72#ht_562wt_1270

I would be interested in this format, swapping emitter to XML and a new driver at least 3A

Found an Ultrafire C8 host at Cn Quality Goods here for $12. Still might be better to buy a cheaper light on Ebay or somewhere and provide some training on removing old driver & emitter. Just sharing the link as I ran across it just now.

-Garry

Did you see the ultrafire C8 I posted above you for $9.78 shipped? Seller has 986 in stock. I can't believe you can get a C8 and have it shipped across the world for under $10 shipped. Wish you could get an XML version that cheap though.

What size is the star and driver in a C8? Might just start this on my own with the the $9.78 shipped C8 as my first flashlight mod. Would do an XML. Is there a 3-mode driver available that would fit the C8 that is driven hard, as in over 3A?

Some of us purchased a cheap C8 from Tmart a while back and the pill was a hollow piece of Aluminum and the threads were different so a standard C8 pill wouldn't fit making it impossible to mod. Please report back if you order this and let us know if it is upgradable.

Its supposedly a trustfire, do the Trustfire C8s have a standard C8 pill?

I have never modded a flashlight so this may be a stupid question, but would you just replace the emitter and driver, not the whole pill? I know being hollow would be a problem but could you fill it with thermal epoxy or something?

Yes, Moto I saw your post. Just threw out my link if people wanted a "genuine Ultrafire" (is there such a thing?) and not order from Ebay.

I don't know about Trustfire pills. I only have a KD C8 XM-L and Palight C8 XP-G. Both of my C8's look identical apart from the emitters, and look exactly like this one at Int'l Outdoor (although I thought mine was silver and not gold/brass color - not sure though). The C8 driver is 17mm and I am pretty sure the star is 20mm.

You can fill a hollow pill using Alumiweld available from Harbor Freight. JohnnyMac gave me that idea. It's not cheap (at least I didn't think so). You melt it with a standard propane torch. I have bought some, but haven't used it yet.

-Garry

Here's a C8 host with options to choose various reflectors for different LEDs, again, suggesting C8 for the _second_ project, if others are interested).

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1144

(Has anyone got a source for the threaded C8 bases on which any choice of drivers and LEDs can be modded?)

Can i put 20mm star on a C8 pill? Or i must buy 16mm star?

C8 pill generally uses a 20mm star as far as I know. See Int'l Outdoor's photo:

-Garry