FWIW, muggle mode probably needs to be first in order to make the other options inaccessible while in that mode. Also, it’s the closest option to the A6’s first option (but it goes to/from 3 levels instead of 4 levels).
After that, it’s a question of how often you’re likely to use each one. Like, I turn memory on and off somewhat regularly (if I want to start in strobe next time, or check several cell voltages) but it’s rare that I want to change how many total modes there are.
So, it’s already about as close as it can get to how the A6 works. The A6 had a switch between two config “bundles”, then a memory toggle… and so does bistro.
Please krono and Neal, make it so we can buy some little alu X5’s either as a host or a complete light.
Because i have no use for the SS/Cu + Cu light combo or another alu X6 in non triple config.
But i can see myself buying plenty of little alu X5’s if they where available
I think this is best option, rather than remove and add resistor. Remove it probably not that hard but if change mind and want to put the resistor again will be harder.
Please make it as default, saving some cost and less work too.
Except that the long press (1-1/2 seconds) becomes a reallly long press (2-1/2 seconds) for the default lighted tailcap that will come with the flashlights.
And if I wanted the long press back at 1-1/2 seconds, I would have to replace the tailcap assembly with a plain one (if an entire assembly were available) or replace the lit tailcap switch with a plain tailcap switch.
Thanks dudunphy! i thought pilotdog was talking about another price configuration, maybe for the Al X5 by itself
well, i am quite new to all this - so will have to spend some time learning about this 25 thing. thanks for pointing me in the right direction to get started.
The firmware can only have one calibration shared for both tailcap configurations, unless I remove something else to make room. That means that one config would either have a longer “long press” (and easier window for “medium press”) or a shorter window for “medium press” (and a quicker “long press”). The first option seems less annoying.
Besides, lots of commercial lights require significantly longer for a “long” press. Like 5 seconds or even 20 seconds. Having it at 2.5 or 3.0s isn’t so bad.
1. Moon plus 6 is okay with me. I really don’t see the advantage to splitting hairs any further than that.
2. 10 lumens is good. I see these flashlights as being more “mini-throwers” than EDC’s. Otherwise, if I were using them as a daily EDC, I would like the next level above moonlight to start at 5 lumens.
3. The option order is fine with me. I don’t shuffle around very much with my BLF A6, so I don’t think I’ll be changing options very often with the subject flashlights.
1. I’m perfectly happy with the original software mode layout. I could even do with one or two less personally, but the moonlight is fine (could even be dimmer, but no brighter.) One day, in a perfect world I’d love some fireflys like a Zebra or Armytek, but I know it’s hard to do. But basically whatever you decide is fine, but it was good as is.
2. I like your idea about making it a bit dimmer. It seems most of the complaints about lights are the low end spacings, especially headlamps. I think you could change mode 2 to under 10 and then make Mode 3 a bit lower too… to like 40ish.
3. Since I want to keep moon, and memory, and don’t have interest in any of the other features except maybe factory or thermal it doesn’t much matter to me.
Again also… the switch. Can you put in a dumb switch or not? And will it come with one?
Just an observation, but I’ve got two “factory” BLF A6 lights and a custom light I built around MtnElectronics version of the BLF FET+1. They’re clearly different boards, although I know the circuit is probably identical.
However, it does seem that the moonlight on the MtnElectronics driver is quite a bit lower. Anybody else noticed this? Or am I crazy? I haven’t measured it or anything and my custom light is quite a bit different than the A6 (triple XP-L), but the moonlight on it is crazy low.
I don’t have a comparison picture handy (although I should!), but here’s my triple FET+1 laying next to an SC62w on its 0.06 lm mode.
Maybe he’s doing something different that could be of interest to this project.
An idea for the lighted tailcap mod:
Instead of removing one or both resistors it could be possible to cut traces on the switch pcb at the right places. If you can find the place, there could be default breaking points changable with a solder bridge like the stars on some drivers.
Everybody’s joining now that they see how awesome it is, as they should be. Unfortunately I need to withdraw one. I’m down for 2 ss/cu sets, 154 and 162. Leave my 154 please, I definitely still want a set, but I need to open my 162 spot up for anybody who wants it. So just one set for me, unfortunately.
Yeah that’s an option. You could use a razor to cut right between the led and the resistor. Or check the lighted tailcap thread, there’s about 6 different places you could cut.
, & it should have been:
