My tracking info shows on the BG page but not on 17track yet.
Progress 
Departured at 2016/1/24 13:38:51 from Flytexpress Sorting Center location
Electronic data received at 2016/1/23 12:23:42, Flytexpress Sorting Center
No problem. and thanks to all here at BLF. This is just a really great forum!
Has anybody reviewed the copper and or the copper and stainless models? Thanks
The question is will these DIY parts come with the AL set at a extra cost or sometime after the AL set shippās ?
Well at this point I think it is best for me to be added to the AL list.
Thanks to everyone for this Super Sale on a very high end light 
For those looking for 14500 IMR that can deliver some amps, I've just ordered a set of these:
2x Genuine Xtar 14500 600mAh 9A IMR Li ion Rechargeable batteries battery MOD | eBay?
Best batteries I could find that are in stock and where shipping (to The Netherlands) is reasonable priced.
Iām not sure if anyone has tried yet, but the non-discounted (and probably non-serialized) SS/Cu set seems to be available at full price. So if you really had to have a set, you could get one without the BLF discount.
I wonder how this will work out in the end with these items already available at retail price.
If thatās my only option I might have to. Itās that tiny copper x5, just looks so awesome.
See when searching for a good EDC light I came across the A6 bare which is perfect for me because I hate how my lights look after hard use with black ano half scratched off. Since my A6 (which I love especially with my 18350 tube) Iāve been poking around on this forum and on BG, trying to figure out how to make a good triple Nichia 219 because of the decent cri. Friday I search BLF on BG and see these beautiful lights, just blew me away man. On BG theyāre listed under 2 tints, 1a and 3b as a pair for 179$ then as another listing for 199$. So is their total stock 400 or just 400 for your group buy meaning they actually have more? Again I apologize because of my lack of participation here. I say that only because I can see lots of people have worked hard for this.
NightSpy, fogcreature, the listing that shows very expensive is essentially a place holder. You canāt buy one at that price, you canāt buy one at all without a code. This is a limited edition set, 400 sets made, 400 sets have been spoken for. If you were able to jump into the site and āstealā someoneās set, youād be hunted down like a mangy dog and executed on sight.
Just sayin.
What makes a group buy work at all is cooperation from everyone involved. On the end-line, that means the people purchasing have to follow the rules and play nice. Thatās the only way itās going to work, and the only way more group buys can take place in the future.
This is your copper x6 amirite Dale? Do you have a copper x5 to compare?
Thatās actually the X5, the X6 is larger.
Keep in mind too that I purposely stripped the coating on my X5, baked it to near black in the oven, then polished it later. The fluke Cu X6 never was coated to begin with. And my little Cu X5 has been EDCād from day one, rebuilt probably 5 times while testing various driver configurations and such. Itās now a Quad XP-L HI making right at 3000 lumens pulling 11.5A from an Efest Purple 14500.
And the Cu X6 next to a regular (sorta) Eagle Eye X6
A pre-flashed chip sounds like a good idea, for those who really want the latest FW and donāt have the gear for a reflash. Maybe we can work something out with RMM? He already has the MCUs, but without FW. Just thinking out loud.
My SS/CU set was ordered and shipped yesterday. Thank you very much to all the "Staff" of this succesfully proyect ! 
That was my question. Thanks for clarifying. I hold out hope on the waiting list and if that falls through just get the al versions
What style battery is recommended for both lights, button-top or flat-top? I need to order new batteries before my Al set arrives, and would like to know before I actually order. Thanks.
I want to get on the waiting list for the ss/cu x5-6 in neutral white please!!!
Flat tops work fine in these as there is a spring top and bottom, or both ends in other words. A button top cell works great for lights like Nitecore and Fenix that have mechanical reverse polarity protection, preventing a flat top from making contact. When there is a spring on the driver the button top is really not necessary.
In my way of thinking, itās just an added bit of resistance as itās a third party additionā¦ none of the top cell manufacturerās offer a button top. So the button is added onto a flat top cell by aftermarket people, sometimes also adding a layer of wrap which will thicken the cell and possibly cause fitment issues in that direction. I have both types in many of my cells, for the sole purpose of fitting Sunwaymanās, Nitecores, and the like.
"Not available on wholesale orders."
That's an odd message, for sure. These codes only work after you are logged into your Banggood account, but it sounds like you are logged in. Is your account a "wholesale" account?
I've done a few, maybe 5 or so?, MCU upgrades on wight's FET+1 drivers - 13A to 85 (for running my Narsil firmware), bent pin setup. Also did a couple more MCU replacements, and with my hot air setup, other surface mounts will loosen up but haven't had any side effects I was aware of, but I'm sure things can happen with the extra 2 high heat cycles.
That method you describe sounds pretty good though, less risk - might do that in the future. I can easily flash MCU's, as many modders here on BLF can, so I certainly could help with that.
Make sure you use the correct link - If you are not one of the 250 people who got a serialized box, you have to use the āSS/Cu without boxā link. This is even if you want an unserialized box.