Beautiful! Thanks guys and girls for working on this.
Krono, you left the screen open on this thread and your dogs saw these lights, they’re OVER THE TOP! 
Music to my ears eyes! :heart_eyes:
The glowing tailcap can be dimmed easily. In most of this kind of light, there is an aluminum washer on top of the boot that the switch sits on. In these they used a white nylon washer for the light to shine through. I simply covered the white washer with Kapton tape and dimmed it down pretty nicely in the little Cu X5. A second layer would take it further. An easy way to do this to a larger extreme would be to stop by an auto window tint shop and ask for a few scraps out of the trash can. Use the window film to cover the washer and effectively dim it to whatever level you wish. Easily removable, easy to change.
Edit: (a magic marker would also work, it could be sanded off if it was too dim)
Just give it up! You know you cannot resist. ;)
Stop what? We are not doing anything....honest 
Think what you may but we knew better. LOL
There has been a lot of thought put into these lights. As always...Kronos, Selene, Dale, and JohnnyMac have worked their butts off here. Selene continues to make magic and even Dale is still picking up his jaw with this latest batch of samples (the rest of us are still waiting :( )
I would like to comment on this. This is good advice if you don’t have the ability to solder at all, but if you can solder, it is less than ideal.
If you can solder and want to dim the tail cap, it is best to change the resistor in the tail. That way you are not only lowering the light output, but also lowering the current draw.
Can you provide more details? What size and resistance?
I did not see a resistor in the tail, there is the switch and there are small led’s on either side of it. That’s all I saw. Perhaps I missed something.
For some of you, this will be welcome news… there are 2 threaded holes for the mcpcb. No screws, but the holes are there if you feel like it has to be snugged down. Ultimately, the copper mcpcb can be re-flowed directly to the copper pill so I don’t know that the screws are a big deal, but the option is there.
hmm interesting.
Sorry, there are VERY TINY resistors marked 30B on each LED. So it’s not really a question if you can solder at all, you’ll have to be pretty good to remove and replace these 2, they’re about half the size of a baby flea. 
SS X6 - 1290.3 Lumens on an LG HE-4
Al X6 - 1331.7 Lumens on it’s own LG HE-4
Cu X5 - 1297.2 Lumens on an Efest Purple IMR14500
Box stock, no alterations or modifications at all.
Those are beautiful numbers! Thanks for sharing. Got current draws?
Having trouble getting current draw, but I’ll get it, one way or another. Tail current is being glitched by the MCU, it blinks and goes off. So I’ll put a loop on the negative lead of the mcpcb itself and get an actual emitter current with my clamp meter.
:heart_eyes: Dat copper X5 :heart_eyes: Dat engraving :heart_eyes: Dat lighted tailcap :heart_eyes: I think I need to change my pants…
My poor bank account… Anyone in the US wanna split a SS/Cu? I can’t justify another X6, but I would absolutely love a copper X5.
The switch has two LEDs, each with a resistor. It looks like this:
Not even an X6 which gets more than triple the throw of the original BLF EE X6? 
Hmmm. I can solder adult fleas but a baby flea might be too small…
So did your samples come as we would get them? I.e. box, standard switch, lanyard etc… if I put the light on my night stand I might remove the lighted tail or desolder the baby fleas
First of all, a big thanks for the great Atiny25 surprise!
Does Maker know that they should do this also in the production run?
Call me picky, but I see one little problem with the X6 samples, there seems to be a considerable gap between the Head and the main tube, the EE X6 looks more to be made from one mould - the X5 seems better made in this regard too.
Sorry one more. Is there a reason why the SS X6 knurling sticks out further from the tube (head and tailcap)?
For my taste, especially the head looks better in the AL and Cu X5 version and probably it feels better in the hand too. What do you think?
Please don’t get me wrong, the X6 screw in reflector seems to be a good idea, but will the threaded part in the head make it more difficult to produce a spacer for triple/quads with optimal heat transfer? Will a spacer need threads (more costly to produce)?
Regards, Juergen