BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

[gamezawy]

After i saw the new pics @11/4/15 with this awesomeness, lighted tail cap, the engraving , closer look at the lights .

I WANTED TO BE PUT IN A DEEP SPACE SLEEP TILL THIS LIGHTS ARE AVAILABLE :_(

[Andybibbville]

My goodness put me in on the SS/CU too please! CW

[chesterqw]

Ss cu nw pls!

[B42]

@ToyKeeper

Now that it’s dark, here are some pictures of the glowing tailcaps as they compare to other glowing things at three different levels of ambient lighting. I’d estimate the tailcap at about 0.01lm or 0.02 lm, but my light box can’t accurately measure that low. I literally have to press the lighted boot directly against my lux meter to make it register above zero.

From left to right: Cu X5, SS X6, L3 L10-219 (0.06 lm), Meteor M43, ZL SC52 (0.11 lm), Blackshadow Terminator

That is a nice glowing look and color in that picture! I think people can manage all kinds of ways to reduce the glow with filters, just a piece of shopping bag or putting a solid color boot on, or take out the LED. Would be nice if there were a simple off/on for it is all. If not, its better to keep it than not have it

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

PilotDog told me that the 2 little LED’s on the tail switch pcb are in parallel so it only takes one resistor. I removed one from my little X5 and cut the output down noticeably, both LED’s still function just not as bright. Much better. I didn’t even bridge the resistor pads, left it open and they both work, so it’s as easy as removing one of the two resistors to reduce the tail glow and effectively the parasitic drain as well.

[emarkd]

@DB Custom

PilotDog told me that the 2 little LED’s on the tail switch pcb are in parallel so it only takes one resistor. I removed one from my little X5 and cut the output down noticeably, both LED’s still function just not as bright. Much better. I didn’t even bridge the resistor pads, left it open and they both work, so it’s as easy as removing one of the two resistors to reduce the tail glow and effectively the parasitic drain as well.

Thank you! That’s great news. Fiddling with those tiny little resistors is not something I enjoy, but I can sure touch an iron to one and flick it off of there, so I’m glad that’s an option.

[Lilien]

@pilotdog68

If you can solder and want to dim the tail cap, it is best to change the resistor in the tail. That way you are not only lowering the light output, but also lowering the current draw.

I’m with you.
It’s difficult to judge the real brightness from photos, but I think we need no second moon mode - the tailcap should be really dim, there is no reason to see it brightened , when it’s not dark - maybe 1/5 or 1/10 from what we see on the pictures is enough and would also save battery power (at least I hope so, or will it only heat the resistors?).

Regards, Juergen

[bugsy]

With a 700mah 14500, how quickly will the battery be drained on the X5?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

In what regard bugsy? Are you questioning the parasitic drain of the tail cap LED’s?

My clamp meter won’t measure the draw, it’s too low.

[pilotdog68]

@DB Custom

PilotDog told me that the 2 little LED’s on the tail switch pcb are in parallel so it only takes one resistor. I removed one from my little X5 and cut the output down noticeably, both LED’s still function just not as bright. Much better. I didn’t even bridge the resistor pads, left it open and they both work, so it’s as easy as removing one of the two resistors to reduce the tail glow and effectively the parasitic drain as well.

Correct. If you were to bridge the second resistor pads, it would completely bypass the first resistor and go “direct drive”, possibly/probably frying the little LED’s. It’s designed so you can have two completely different circuits if you want. So you can have a red led and a blue led in the same tailcap, with separate resistors to set the brightness of each. You would just need to cut the long trace that runs under the switch to separate the two sides.

[bugsy]

@DB Custom

In what regard bugsy? Are you questioning the parasitic drain of the tail cap LED’s?

My clamp meter won’t measure the draw, it’s too low.

Yes, I was referring to the parasitic drain of the tail cap LEDs. I Love the feature, I’m just curious how quickly the smaller 14500s will need to be recharged.

[pilotdog68]

There is definitely some parasitic drain, and it depends what resistors are used, but it is usually pretty tiny. I am not surprised that Dale’s clamp meter won’t read it, but it will show something if you run the DMM in series with the tailcap.

I’m interested to see the difference between both resistors and just one as Dale has done.

[ToyKeeper]

Perhaps I can clip together enough parts to measure the tailcap power. It’s weird having to do all the testing and measurement with the tailcap included in the circuit, since I usually can test with just the head of each light.

The DMM I’d need is normally busy with automated tests, but I can take it offline for long enough to check the tailcaps and the PWM speeds.

[BorisBar]

1 SS/Cu NW
1 Al NW

[SixM]

Please add me to the list,

1 SS/Cu set in WW,

Thank you.

[itsonlyme]

So how are this round of samples shaping up? Were all the previous issues resolved?

[mrkelvin]

About the lighted tailcap on the ss/cu: Will it light up once the battery is inserted and stay lit until the battery is drained or removed? No lockout? I’ve tried to read all the posts but this is still unclear to me. If there is no lockout, is it possible to swap from ss/cu to al on the interest list?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

It would be possible to shorten one of the contact points, like say a brass or copper post on the driver instead of a spring, such that the cell doesn’t make contact until the tail cap is threaded all the way on, then you could break contact and kill the LED’s in the tail cap on the SS and Cu versions.

[pilotdog68]

@DB Custom

It would be possible to shorten one of the contact points, like say a brass or copper post on the driver instead of a spring, such that the cell doesn’t make contact until the tail cap is threaded all the way on, then you could break contact and kill the LED’s in the tail cap on the SS and Cu versions.

Good idea, I hadn’t thought of that. Of course you’d want to screw the tailcap down carefully to avoid denting the cell if you have a solid post.

[mrkelvin]

Please remove me from the ss/cu list. Number 219.

Sign me up for a aluminium set instead please.

The suggestion with the contact points is good but will limit you in terms of different cell lenghts. I’m afraid the parasitic drain without lockout will make the ss/cu lights shelf queens for me. Although they are sweet as hell