Seems to be a matter of simple common sense, you know, like if you wear a toupe don’t drive a convertible with the top down…
I guess someone could write an ap and have Siri tell people when to charge their cells…
Interesting question about that lighted switch board… can it be removed as easily as that? Is there something at the driver level that would also have to be addressed? I say this because there is an extra resistor stacked on the off-time cap that I haven’t seen before, I don’t know what this is for. It may very well apply to the new ATTiny25 MCU, I don’t know.
So I guess that’s my question, can the lighted tail pcb be removed as easily as that without affecting other elements of the light? Should be simple enough to pop the LED’s off with a hot iron if it won’t affect the lights performance up top. Or pop one off, leaving the other, and reduce drain even more with a much reduced glow as well.
As far as the question about the copper springs, I don’t ever use the beryllium springs without a bypass, simply because they are soft and will collapse under a load/heat. Not collapse fully, but soften and sag, shortening their overall length and easily causing connection issues. So I always put a bypass in these springs to carry the current.
I would like to find a better middle ground, a spring that is robust enough to support the cell and stay consistent, if that’s a steel spring then so be it, a wire bypass inside the spring is really easy to do. I don’t mind doing those, it’s one of the easier parts of the hobby and certainly easier than stacking 7135 chips. 
I’m finding that I like the new style of the batt check, showing the actual level of charge. I’m also liking the soft start, it just feels like a higher quality and better controlled light with this feature. The ability to choose modes from 1-9 is also a neat feature, and easy enough to change at will. 7 might be too many, 4 might be too few, 5 seems pretty good. However you like it, it’s easy enough to change so that’s pretty cool. And the thermal step down is adjustable as well, so if you modify the light you can easily adapt the thermal step down to act accordingly or turn it off if you wish. So the level of control is pretty nice, even if you set it up once and never mess with it again.
TK is testing the fine parameters to see if changes need to be applied, and we’re working on getting the 4 sets of samples all compared to ensure consistency of production. But by and large the requests were met and the quality control stepped up for some very nice lights. I think they’re understanding what’s at stake and have upped their game and it’s much appreciated.
That’s what I thought. 
I also hope I’ll wake up with the ability to fly and shape-shift.
But to more directly answer your question, we are indeed trying to get some awesome springs. The long thin ones they used on later batches of the A6 were pretty terrible. But it’s not totally settled yet so I haven’t said anything conclusive about it.
Sorry forgot about that.
First choice would be NW followed by CW.
The extra resistor is a “bleeder” or driver bypass directly between batt+ and batt-. Stacking it on top of C1 just happens to be the easiest place to put it. Removing vs disabling the lighted tailcap makes no effective difference, you certainly could just swap out the whole pcb. But I would leave the extra resistor on the driver, it could affect switch-press timing, and I believe TK is calibrating the final FW with that resistor installed.
Dale, you’re the curious type; I would recommend you to read the OP and middle pages of the lighted tailcap thread. You just might decide to dabble for yourself
It’s still on my list to test in more detail, but I think it will affect the button / OTC timings. I’m not sure by how much. Changing between one tail resistor and two tail resistors changed the OTC timings, but I haven’t tested all the combinations yet, or tested with much precision.
With all four flashlights projected to have about the same output, I’m betting the super compact and lightweight aluminum X5 is going to be the gem of this GB !
So to summarize:
All 4 possible lights come with a lit tail cap
Two resistors each from factory
(pending TK’s approval and knowledge about how it impacts the driver)
All tail caps can be DIY modified once home.
DIY Modification options are (at least)
Remove one resistor and/or remove one LED
Remove both resistors and / or remove both LEDs
DO NOT bridge the now open resistor pads i.e. Direct Drive
swap the whole tail cap switch? (alternate switch(s) supplied in kit?)
Spec has been finalized no major changes to V2
The current actual capacitor spec MAY yet be able to be modified
We throw our selves on the mercy of the brain trust.
Maybe we can at least consider changing the spec on the resistors for the x5, 14500 light (so what if it is less bright then the “big” X6)?
Or maybe all the tail cap resistors can be reconsidered for both lights?
Option A) no change
Option B) change X5 resistor spec
Option C) change all tail cap resistor specs
Talk amongst yourselves
I think it’s probably a good idea to go with only one tailcap resistor by default. With two, they’re definitely on the bright side (I used them in place of my night light last night, and can see where I’m going in the dark with one). With just one resistor, the brightness seems like a more appropriate level, it increases the standby time, and it also improves OTC drain behavior.
… also, it should probably be the same for all models. I don’t really trust the factory to get the right parts into the right hosts if they’re different.
Careful, this is how we end up with 4k lumens out the front and 4k out the back as well. 
Oh boy - such pretty flashlights! have been lurking this forum for sometime. this just pushed me over the edge.
in for:
1 set, Copper/SS, NW
1 set, Al, NW
agreed about being consistent.
What about reducing/increasing the resistor(s) spec, if it is agreed that it is overly bright but keep both resistors. This way if the end user still thinks it is too bright/is concerned about parasitic draining they/we can use the ol soldering iron and flick one of the two off.
This give us options and the design (stays as submitted) except with a resistor spec change
.02 lumens idea (from the peanut galley)
I also want one Al set (NW).
When can we order?
:bigsmile:
Does it make sense to remove the couple of photos from the OP showing a (very cool) Triple, just so folks (like me) keep their expectations in line? i.e. avoid confusion.
Wouldn’t that mean another round of testing, to check the (proposed) changed resistors?
My request (#1620) missed the list 
Can someone please add in?
-flipsl
Yeah, trying to avoid that. Adding another round trip would be a pretty big deal and could potentially cause the final price to change.
1 SS/CU Set – NW
THX!
I’m already in for the SS/Cu-set, but I don’t want to miss the Al Version of these fantastic lights.
All the news about these lights are so exciting, I can hardly wait to hold them in my hand.
Please put me on the list for
2 x Al-set (1xCW/1xNW).
Thanks a lot!
SS/CU Set/NW/1pcs
THX