Hank, as I recall it’s been said that this is a limited edition once only run. I know we had a target of 200 pieces to actually hit production but it seems to me that the plan was whatever overage we got on the initial purchase would be the final. These are to be serial numbered and that will be that. And the serial numbers will be “as issued”, not by request.
Kronological or Bugsy will have to chime in on this, but I think that’s what was said early on.
Upping the effective value of those parallel resistors to reduce parasitic drain by , say , four fold, but light would only look half as dim , would end the potential problems for me. 25 days to drain a 14500 is only 3 1/2 weeks,and my memory is better than Dale’s!(maybe).That is lying around time , but 100 days , that’s storage and I’d take the cell out.
It is an easy change that should not need new samples to be sent , just Neil could check that the changed resistor values were implemented for the production run.
The ‘it’s too bright’ brigade would be happy too.
Just my 2 cents(euro)
Yeh, just saying, as recent experience with the drivers and lights from earlier GBs,
I expect that despite planning for one-time fixed quantity, this isn’t going to stop being made and sold.
If they keep up to spec, and listen to the user feedback about quality, then they’ll keep selling them and
— whether or not the BLF folks stay involved — these lights will change the market for good flashlights.
(Or, au contraire, get degraded and overpriced and run down, but hey, the world might change …)
I agree, keep it as a limited edition, well certainly the copper version anyway
Actually, I can see that Hank… probably not with the SS and Cu lights but the aluminum pairing and especially the X5 is just too epic to die in a group buy. The little X5 is groundbreaking and phenomenal, so much light and so many options in such a small easily carried package. That’s one that would should take off it hits a production line…
Still undecided on the lighted tail cap. Planning to give the SS/Cu X6 to my dad but I know he won’t use it often and the cell will be drained all the time, so as a gift I just can’t see it being maintained as it should be. I gave him one of the BLF Special Edition X6’s when they came out originally and it sit’s in it’s box unused.
For a collection or a non-flashaholic it does seem pertinent to be able to put a standard pcb in the tail and have it safer for long term. I’ve gotten lights before that came with a secondary switch, giving an option between forward and reverse or even a switch that controlled the modes in a different way, so having a standard switch as a spare in this kit would be a good idea, or actually 2 standards as there’s 2 lights in the kit. I know the price is low on these, so perhaps having 2 standards as an option for a couple of bucks would a great way to solve this… not automatically included but by selection only.
Easy enough to pick up spares from Richard or Neal or FastTech or whatever if they don’t offer to include them in this kit. Just sayin. Swap the lighted pcb into your stock X6 or BLF SE X6 and put the stock switch in the SS/Cu lights……the stock BLF SE would then have lockout to turn it off. 
Any further confirmation on a price, given that the op is an estimate only?
This thread is so big I can see questions being lost/unanswered. Just wondering what color the production switch boot will be and if it could come with a few swappable colors. Not that I don’t like pink but…
.
+1,000,000 Dale!
Also would be nice to include Black switch boots to go with the switches.
I like everything about these lights but the built-in parasitic drain, and the ‘girly’ colored boots.
Thanks!
-Chuck
No, because it has more of an effect on how the driver actually functions than the ones in the tail do. (at least in my tests)
I have just realised that I missed a page jump.I posted after reading to post 1800,end of page 6 , and had not seen Ronin’s post or Lilien’s.I’ll be happy with what you decide.If I want to lower parasitic drain , I know which resistors to change,not the bleeder,that may scew TK’s calibration.
Please sign me up for:
One HAIII Aluminum Set
Neutral White tint
…
I’ll consider it as an early Christmas present.
To add to the early Thanksgiving present (BLF 348) …
On top of the early Halloween present (GB M24 Sniper) …
And the early Discoverer’s Day present (GB EC4S) …
And the early Labor Day present (BLF A6) …
… I’m running out of holidays! :evil:
The switch boot will be clear, they used the pink one’s because they had them on hand.
How about this, 46 images of the X5 Cu…
Please add me for 1 Al set CW.
Hey, simple answer for that problem.
Put a spacer tube and half-AA alkaline cells in it.
That way you’ll be so nervous about them leaking and ruining the light that you’ll check it every month or so …
Quick question, and it’s a bit hard to follow, with all the talk of modding the tail cap PCB. I know Johnny Mac had said a standard tailcap switch would be included. Is this still a consideration, is it included, or is the fix a black tail cap, or do I have to buy one somewhere else? Or is it still being decided? I’ve seen half a dozen things suggested, but can’t tell what the fix is, if you don’t want the tail cap light- as of now. This isn’t make or break, but I’m having trouble keeping track.
[DELETED - error on my side, sorry]
Regards, Juergen
I’d sure like to buy an extra, standard, tailcap. Much easier to swap tailcaps than innards when I want to change to storage mode and back to active mode.
Or know what Legoes with this tailcap. I understand the SS model has unique threads so it won’t be easy to find elsewhere
I am not in for this deal as I could not justify the price for two lights but I really like the little X5. Is this light going to be available for purchase? I can’t find it online at present so I assume it is something you guys are helping to develop.
The bleeder resistor can’t make current go past the switch by itself. If the tail led pcb is disabled/removed, the parasitic drain will stop. Conversely, if you only remove the bleeder resistor, the tail leds will still draw power through the driver, but now your driver won’t work right anymore…
To oversimplify it, the tail resistors allow the current to flow, the bleeder just keeps the driver from malfunctioning.
Keep in mind, this isn’t a brand new idea. A few of us have had these tailcaps for months. It’s just a new addition to this groupbuy.
AL set
NW
1
Thanks.