*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

Welcome to the forum GMozz.

I moved the orange O-ring down on the light to the slot just above the lighted switch for decoration (where it cannot pop off anymore) and purchased some Youth/7" sized Silicone Rubber Wrist Bands (which are 1/2" wide and do not pop off unexpectedly like the orange O-ring) from AmazonUS to use at the top of my LT1 lanterns as a bumper for some limited extra protection in case the light trips over on it's side, but you may be able to find something similar in Australia.


I purchased the "Black" color which looks elegant on the light, but they have many colors to choose from including "Green Glow in Dark". I'm not sure which size fits best (Youth/7" or Adult/8") but the Youth/7" size seems to fit perfectly with just the right amount of stretch.

I just used a couple drops of superglue and the orings haven’t moved on my two lanterns. Hot glue might be cleaner in the event that you want to remove it.

This thread on Reddit describes the process using the Emisar flashing kit.

I’m really keen to try it myself but given the shipping cost I’m waiting to buy a Hank light before buying the flashing kit. If anyone can suggest an alternative flashing kit that’s a bit cheaper I would appreciate it.

I asked Barry a year ago about this. He thought it was a great idea, then, crickets. I even asked if I could buy a blank board to install my own emitters. He said sure, but never responded after that. I camp a lot in the summer, and red doesn’t attract bugs.

Anyone with the manual in PDF? Who should I contact from the company?

Does this help you?

Hi, the manual link is broken, can you share an updated one?

Thanks, the original manual is the one I’m looking for, I guess Lux can re-upload it.

Does anyone know if usb charging does balancing of the 18650 cells?
And why does the power button stay lit all the time? Doesn’t that consume battery when off?

Any updates on a 21700 LT2 version? :smiley:

The way the batteries are connected in parallel, there is no way to do any balancing, so definitely no.
Any configuration with an electronic switch will consume battery when off. An indicator or auxiliary LED will add to this. You can turn the LED off in the Anduril configuration if you want and it will reduce the parasitic drain, but not remove it completely. The only way to have absolutely no drain is to unscrew the battery tube a few revolutions. Not just until the button LED goes off, but more, to completely sever the connection of the batteries to the light.

The cells are in parallel so they will naturally self balance. No special considerations are required for balancing while charging.

The switch LED uses very little current (don’t remember exact numbers; it’s been mentioned before). It would take years to drain fully charged cells. If it’s a concern, it can be turned off.

I recall a calculation that the switch led would take 16yrs to drain the battery when set to low.

Now if you haven’t used the lantern in 16yrs…. well then the parasitic drain from the switch led is hardly the main concern.

When I first got my LT1 I unboxed it, tested it playing around for a night then put it away & didn’t use it for a few months. Now I use it every night. Run it without cells off a 30,000nAh Romoss power bank and attach lantern to a light weight collapsible stand.

Looking forward to the mini when its done.

What this CL1 lantern ive seen on facebook?


Excuse me….with all cells in parallel, there is no way for them to not be balanced. 4 cells put into a carrier where all 4 positives touch the same conductor, and also terminate to the same ground will immediately start balancing. The higher potential cells will start charging those of lower potential until all 4 have equal potential.

Is it supposed to look like this on the board? I hate to come off as rude but it just looks sloppy. Maybe it is normal?

Also, what is the adjustable component with a Philips head for?

The thing on the board is flux residue, it’s from the reflow soldering process and helps the solder flow well by enabling a better heat transfer and it also removes some corrosion from the copper and such. It’s no problem it’s still there but it does indeed look a bit dirty.

I’m pretty sure the adjustable component (potentiometer), in combination with the solder bridge on the left of it, can be used to increase/decrease the glow of the button.

I didn’t mean the flux. The outer ring is missing some material. Also why put solder on half of the “B” stuff like that.