Nice video Barry!
^ Would it make any sense to try seating the o-ring in the “cap” of the light, then lower the shade onto it?
I will add some of my observations as I got the Sofirn 1.0 and BLF-LT1-A2 versions:
"Sofirn 1.0" seems to be the "interim" 1st version of the BLF LT1 with powerbank, so "1.0" may mean "v1" or "Anduril 1" - it comes with Anduril 1 (firmware version 2020-06-02).
"BLF-LT1-A2" seems to be the updated 2nd version of the LT1 with powerbank function, so "A2" probably means "Anduril 2" or the second version -- it comes with Anduril 2 (firmware version 2021-01-25 model 612) = based on TK's list of MODELS, the "612" refers to the ATTiny85 version, I wonder if anyone already got the ATTiny1616 version already of LT1, which would blink out a different Model code.
Some of my other observations, in addition to what "Story" mentioned:
1) "Sofirn 1.0":
- charging current (input to the lantern) seems to be 5v/2Amp but can be a bit higher than 2A (I noticed momentary 2.2A using a USB meter), note that I didn't do a full test, just tried it momentarily with partially charged batteries
(comment: the original BLT LT1 v4.3 or v5.0 board, charges at default up to 5v/1.5A setting max, or 5v/0.75A if set to that setting; so the LT1v2.0 can charge faster with enough USB power source current)
- USB out (powerbank function), using USB Meter "Protocol Detection", it does not have any Protocol (which may mean some selective devices may not charge at higher current if they do not detect a supported USB charging protocol)
- I used a USB load tester and tried 5v/2Amps, which appeared to work (it may also support higher than 2Amps, with not much voltage sag for 5v, but I haven't tried to push it)
- the normal button light is Orange, which follows the Anduril state (Off / Low / High / Blinking); this Orange LED always works independently of the other color LED (meaning it will be lighted up along with the other LED mentioned below)
- the other color LED depends on how the USB port is working:
- while charging LT1 lantern: flashing (or steady?) Red
- finish charging LT1 lantern: steady Green
- while in powerbank mode: steady Blue
- charging current (input to the lantern) seems to be 5v/2Amp but can be higher than 2A (I noticed momentary 2.7A using a USB meter), note that I didn't do a full test, just tried it momentarily with partially charged batteries; so this "A2" can charge at higher current if the USB power source can supply enough power
- USB out (powerbank function), using USB Meter "Protocol Detection", my USB Meter indciates it supports DCP5v/1.5A, Apple 5v/2.4A, Samsung 5v/2A protocols
- I used a USB load tester and tried 5v/2Amps, which appeared to work (it also supports higher than 2Amps, with not much voltage sag for 5v, but I haven't really tried to push it further, I think 5v/2.5A or 5v/3A might be possible)
- the normal button light is Green, which follows the Anduril state (Off / Low / High / Blinking); this Green LED always works independently of the other color LED (meaning it will be lighted up along with the other LED mentioned below)
- the other color LED depends on how the USB port is working:
- while charging LT1 lantern: flashing Blue
- finish charging LT1 lantern: steady Blue
- while in powerbank mode: steady Orange
(aux-LED state seems to always apply: so let's say we set Anduril aux-LED state to "Blinking", and we are charging the LT1 lantern, then the button LED will be "blinking Green" + "flashing Blue")
To Emulate an old lantern CCT should be much lower than 2700k
I want similar it but in high CRI
It was not intended to emulate an “old” lantern, we went with a wide range of color CCT, and keep CRI high. There was no suitable 3535 LEDs at the time that had high CRI & was efficient enough in the 1800K ~ 2000K range. Using a yellow plastic bowl as a shade like the one in the image below helps give a warmer effect.
https://imgur.com/3AGx5lz[!(https://imgur.com/3AGx5lz)](Imgur: The magic of the Internet)
This isn’t available off the shelf, but here is one option hopefully available soon to modify the LT1 for lower color temperatures:
The simple option would be to order the MCPCB with 2700K for the “cold” emitter, and deep red for the “warm” emitter. It will compromise on CRI as you ramp to the red channel, but the combined output should warm the effective CCT on the way to red.
Somebody on reddit also recently found some Luxeon 1800K, 90 CRI emitters in the same size as the Sunlike board uses - 2835. It should be possible to install these on the Sunlike board on your own:
They are interest but high shipping cost and maybe require some skill to be solder on 3535 boards.
Hope the major brands finally relase these ultrawarm Leds in standard size,world is now full of harsh cool and neutral white Leds.
The photo posted are 1800k PC “amber” Leds from AE
Seller declare 80 Cri but hard to believe
A question about my LT1 which arrived from Sofirn China about 6 weeks ago.
I was playing with Sunset mode and thought I had it set properly after a couple of test runs but, it was totally dead the next morning.
I plugged it into the port on my USB hub which I use with my cellphone (2A port) and let it run overnight. When I left the office where it was charging, the switch glowed a steady blue. Mid-morning the following day, I unplugged it and the switch began blinking blue. I tried to switch it on and it glowed on a low setting and went out on its own and the switch color changed to steady orange.
I broke the contact with the batteries (twisted the base a few turns) and then tightened everything back up and never got the blue switch again, only orange.
Thinking the batteries weren't properly charged, I removed them put them into my Nitecore 4-bay charger which showed a good status on all batteries, and after a few hours put ~150mah and less than 0.2V into them. Reinstalling the batteries returned it to "normal" functionality.
Is this user error where I don't understand what the LT1 is trying to tell me with the led colors in the power switch? Or, do I possibly have a battery or lantern issue? My other LT1 is about 4 months older (Anduril 2) and hasn't shown this behavior but, it also hasn't been totally depleted to absolutely flat batteries. I also charge this LT1 on the same cable and charger port
The best thing I can tell from what I saw is that the "new" LT1 was trying to "CHARGE" the USB hub instead of taking a charge from it. Perhaps, the power flickered out here in rural Texas while I slept, and the LT1 thought the "hub" was needing to BUDDY CHARGE?
Interesting… I have not experienced that or tested that yet myself.
I am curious if there is a way to change color temp in this lantern. i got one not long ago but cant seem to find it in the manual.
In candle light mode its not yellow at all.
Mine came setup with a warm candle and sunset mode. Tint ramping didn't affect those modes at all.
Look for the Anduril 2 maps for options to adjust things.
On my Anduril 1 LT1, I can tint ramp in candle mode.
found a youtube reviewer that explained it. thanks
Still worth purchasing? Any negative modifications by the manufacturer similar to what Lumintop did? I don’t want to purchase and find out Sofirn cheaped out on materials/made worse changes to the BLF model
I can't speak to what may be in the pipeline but, I have two LT1's from the "current generation" and love them. They are my most used lights.
Considering its price point and what I see on the Sofirn website, I don't see any suggestion of these being "cheaped out" or otherwise being downgraded. In fact, I see what looks like a new control board on their website to update the first generation LT1 lanterns to the current hardware and functionality but, I don't have enough knowledge to speak to the charging and similar features in the current generation, and this new replacement PCB.
What did they do, and to which model(s)?
Nearing time to order an LT1, but the CL2 also looks interesting.
It is a really awesome option with a lot of features. The minor size difference in the CL2 had my attention for a little while but, the LT1 simply works so well for me and its feature set was better. Plus, the 18650 batteries have worked really well for me during recent power outages. I even overheard my friend's wife on the phone with my friend say "Sid has a really awesome light!" to him while I was over at the cabin chatting with her while the power was out.
Which version of the LT1 is considered the best? Is there a particular revision I should go for?
I would say if you don’t specifically want to make sure you get any of the following features, don’t worry about which version you get. Any of them will still be the best lantern on the market:
- Powerbank functionality (I think this is universal now?)
- Ability to change the maximum current by bridging or clearing solder jumpers
- Pin arrangement for flashing new firmware.
If you do care, you’ll have to search upthread for information to guide which version to seek out, but I don’t think there is necessarily any certainty which version you will get, regardless of where you order.
Here’s two posts with some good summary info:
Cool, thanks for the info!