It would certainly be convenient to order them together, but even still some 3400’s would also be okay for this light where drain doesn’t matter
Keep us posted mate and thanks again for all your hard work 
Would it actually be better/easier to use protected cells here vs unprotected given the built-in features of the LT1? Just trying to figure out for the same purposes of potential gift giving…
If they never take out the cells(since there is USB-C charging), unprotected cells would be your best bet.
Thanks for the fast response! And there wouldn’t be a risk of over-charging using USB-C or anything like that?
Much appreciated,
The LT1 uses the modern TP5100 series charger chip, so the cells are always properly charged & protected with the lantern’s circuits.
My pleasure…. :+1:
Suit yourself, but protected batteries are pretty much unnessary in the LT1. It has protection & safeguards built in already.
But do use button tops either way you go.
As was discussed for the Q8 also, which uses the same battery configuration, in a 4xparallel configuration protected batteries do have a real advantage: no driver protects you from inserting one of the batteries the wrong way and upon closing the light frying the springs, or worse, from direct shorting the batteries against each other. It will happen at some point. Using protected batteries at least saves you from collapsing springs, that nasty resulting smell afterwards, and having to find and solder at least two new springs.
/\. Thanks djozz for adding that. . 
I stand corrected for leaving that part/concern out. 
I guess that is why BSM wrote “if the batteries will not be removed”.
As in my Q8’s I’ll just use unprotected in my LT1’s…. BUT, this certainly might not be the best choice for everyone.
,
ymmv
Between the Samsung 35E and the Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA, which unprotected cell is better suited for the LT1? Or am I splitting hairs?
Personally, i do not think it makes any difference. I have both. Get the cheaper one.
Someone else may have other advice.
Stop being a drama queen, just use the pink ones 
What will be the maximum battery current draw on the highest setting?
(For all 4 or for a single 18650)
I guess it won’t be high.
So I could use old Panasonics with 3400mAhs…
Is there already a rough guess when the lantern will be ready to ship?
(The month)
This thing for sure will be something special in my collection
When HKJ tested them, the 35E measured very slightly more capacity, and the 18650GA measured slightly higher voltage under load.
But they’re so close that I’d call it splitting hairs, especially for an easy load like the LT1.
Since you said this, it made me curious. So, I just went and looked at his comparator with those two cells. I set the graph to show a 2A line and 3A line. I’d say that what you described above is dead on. The GA showed a tiny bit higher voltage, and the 35E showed a tiny bit more capacity. At those current levels, it is my opinion that splitting hairs would be an easier job than trying to choose a “winner” from those two cells. I don’t think I’ve ever seen cells from two different manufacturers “match” so closely!
I would like to be added to the list to be able to buy one of these. Do I just leave this here, or do I somehow add myself to the list?
Kboater
You’re in :+1:
2.5A total maximum. 7 0.35A linear driver chips, you can configure the light for less, likely it will come configured for less and you would need to configure it for the 7 drivers. Four of most any battery would work. One of most any battery would work, but for not as long.
my personal rough guess is September. That’s based on my guess that
DBSAR will get the final production sample in the next 2-3 weeks
he will test it for a week, and not find anything requiring a change for this model
and in 2-3 weeks Sofirn will have final units produced for sale.
But that is only my personal, not terribly educated, guess. I hope I’m wrong and its sooner, but its likely more of a best case scenario.
One more please, for a total of 3.
Will it be easy to configure for dummies like me & others
Will it be button pushing or will it need tools & knowledge ?
Assuming you are asking about configuring the number of AMC7135 driver chips, you need a soldering iron.
This post shows a picture of the driver board.
IN the picture all the drivers are enabled, so the pads next to the numbers 3-7 for both AMC NW and AMC WW are filled with solder. I don’t know how many of those will come filled with solder from the factory, but likely the numbers 3 and 4 for both AMC CW and AMC WW. Adding or removing solder will add or remove the number of drivers connected. It not necessary to do them in numerical order, as they are all in parallel.
Bottom line, you need a soldering iron or some other way to remove or add an electrical connection to small pads.