The LEDs are at the top of the lantern. The next item going down is a 2-3” plastic lantern window. Then, the bottom top of the base of the lantern, then the driver board, then the batteries.
No data from DBSARs test, but I’m guessing the base/batteries are basically at room temperature. The measurements made by DBSAR were via a hand held thermometer, not via the lantern.
It would be interesting for the 7*AMC7135 version with 60°C at the top of the head. After 2 hours and 30 Minutes would be nice.
The temperature of the upper head is not realy interesting. The temperature of the lower head is interesting for me, where I will touch the switch.
There is not only plastic going down to the driver. There is an aluminium tube as one part with the lower head and the screw which holds the upper head:
Thanks for the video! Helped me make up my mind to keep mine running at 5 7135’s 
Made an account for this deal. In for the BLF LT1 lantern, (with four sofirn 3000mAh 18650 batteries) the GB price is to be $62.99 USD
You make a valid point. My opinion, and its strictly an opinion, doesn’t change though. I think the amount of heat conducted through the metal screw to the base vs the surface area and mass of the base will cause a negligible temperature rise on the base.
But hopefully DBSAR will chime in. He certainly can say if/how the base temperature felt, even if he did not measure it. He did comment that the V2 unit measured 25C at the head, and felt like it did not heat at all. I suspect the same it true for the two prototypes, and he did handle both of them during the video. He also commented the plastic lense of the 7 channel version was not hot, just the top.
I’m thinking that the pencil lead trick for the Nanjg drivers would be an easy way to test out having 5 or 7 7135’s enabled and whether one likes it or not. Certainly easier than soldering and un-soldering things (for me adding a solder blob is easy and quick but removing it not nearly the same).
The driver and lower sections just gets warm.
The center driver section and battery tube got only warm. The head was where the heat was.
Looks like I am late, but I am in for one.
I would like one lantern and the set of batteries.
Heh, that reminds me of the time we had an outage in our neighborhood. All houses dark. I fired up my Coleman lantern and my 4000 lumen mag mod (ceiling bounce). Soon a neighbor was knocking on the door to ask how it was that we still had power? :laughing:
i am interested!
Super stoked about this one!
Not to go too far down a rabbit trail….but curious how much size and weight would be required to incorporate BlueTooth speaker capabilities on the next version?
In for another — total 3.
The populated valley below us endures grid failure a few times a year due to summer and winter storms. If we notice the valley has gone dark we sometimes turn on a few extra lights to illustrate the independence solar can offer. But I do have to temper the side of me that wants to flaunt our power as I do have the expense of keeping equipmemnt spares on hand and have had to replace hardware because of lightning strikes. All is not rosey all of the time. We had another lightning strike a couple of weeks ago. Even with all the air terminals and earthing plates and rods a spike got through our defences and fried one of the GFCI breakers. Every so often I need to replace one of the strike supprssors, or have one rebuilt. But I like being off grid all the same.
You’re so mean! :smiling_imp:
The neighborly thing to do would be to shine a few GTs downhill into their windows. :partying_face:
I’m living in very cloudy/rainy area.
Would this 60W Solar Panel ( for which Fin17 just posted discount code ) be too powerful for this lantern?
Or maybe this 30W Solar Panel would be good enough?
Most any good quality solar panel over 20 or 25 watts will produce sufficient power to charge the LT1 even under cloudy days, though the 40 watt would be the best option as most panels efficiency drops off quite a lot in over-cast skies… While my Eceen 10-watt struggles to trickle charge the LT1, it still does, barely. my much larger 40 watt PowerAdd folding panel can charge the LT1 with no problem on cloudy days.
Cloudy overcast charging Video below of the 40 watt:
same below with the 10-watt:
Regarding two of these:
It currently has “sunset” mode. From off, click 3 times, it will start blinking out the battery voltage. Click twice, and it switch to a constant mode that gradually dims to off over the course of an hour. I think Toykeeper is planning to in the future allow the initial brightness and the timer to be adjusted by the user.
Also, I sometimes leave a flashlight on in minimum mode overnight for a night light. The LT1 should be able to run for months at minimum brightness.
It actually has a flickering candle mode and a fun lightning mode already. Candle mode defaults to regular on, but with 3-clicks, it switches to a 30 minute time, and you can add 30 minute increments with additional triple-clicks.
It also has a party strobe mode. I think it is only at maximum brightness, but you can ramp the speed up or down to do tricks like freeze the apparent motion of a fan.