Put me down for 2
TP5100-datashhet.pdf
1014.61 KB
Put me down for 2
Did you find the Eceen 10 watt solar panel on Banggood? I’ve searched on BG, but can’t find it, with or without the discount.
Amazon
The English manual has got some last minute changes. You can download the final version ► here ◄.
DBSAR, maybe you’d like to put the link into your OP, so everyone can find it easily.
Good idea Lux, i will add the link to the mail post topic OP.
In for 1
Thanks for the assist sbslider.
Amazon is where I was looking as well.
Thanks DBSAR for the idea of a 30 watt for charging two at the same time. Makes perfect sense in a power outage situation.
In for 1, thanks
Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
ApostatePipe:Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
Correct.
The only flat tops I’ve seen that will work in a light like this are the Sanyo GA like I’m using in the BLF LT1 wrapped battery sets I’m selling.
@Stereodude, technically, the maximum is actually 20V.
I always say 18V because of things like giving 10% of voltage headroom.
1014.61 KB
Someone more familiar with the LT1 charging circuit might tell us if 18V is risky.
18V is absolute maximum for the charge controller in the LT1. If that 18V is a working voltage, not max no load voltage you could exceed 18V with a light load and damage the charge controller in the LT1.
@Stereodude, technically, the maximum is actually 20V.
I always say 18V because of things like giving 10% of voltage headroom.
On a related note, if you’re using a bare “12V” solar panel without any sort of voltage regulator, it can easily have an optimum working voltage approaching 18V.
I have a “12V” panel with an optimum working voltage of 17.5V and an open circuit voltage of 21.6V. Some chips will fry instantly if you exceed their maximum rating even at a tiny current, and we don’t know if the TP5100 is one of them. I’m not chancing it, my panels will be getting switch-mode buck converters and power protection circuits.
If you’re not sure about this stuff, stick to a panel with a built in USB socket and voltage regulator.
On a related note, if you’re using a bare “12V” solar panel without any sort of voltage regulator, it can easily have an optimum working voltage approaching 18V.
………………
If you are looking at the specs for a bare panel there will be a “Vmp” number which is the output voltage under standard test conditions, bright sunlight. There is also a “Voc” number which is the Open Circuit voltage of the panel under the same bright std conditions. Voc is higher than Vmp. For example my homes 10 year old panels have a Vmp of 28.5 volts and a Voc of 36.1. You can see there can be quite a difference.
Stereodude: ApostatePipe:Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
Correct.
The only flat tops I’ve seen that will work in a light like this are the Sanyo GA like I’m using in the BLF LT1 wrapped battery sets I’m selling.
So the 30Q button tops would work.
amishbill: Stereodude: ApostatePipe:Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
Correct.
The only flat tops I’ve seen that will work in a light like this are the Sanyo GA like I’m using in the BLF LT1 wrapped battery sets I’m selling.
So the 30Q button tops would work.
Or you can add a solder blob to the top of the 30Q flat tops. Takes maybe 10 seconds per battery.
leftdisconnected:Someone more familiar with the LT1 charging circuit might tell us if 18V is risky.
Stereodude:18V is absolute maximum for the charge controller in the LT1. If that 18V is a working voltage, not max no load voltage you could exceed 18V with a light load and damage the charge controller in the LT1.
BlueSwordM:@Stereodude, technically, the maximum is actually 20V.
I always say 18V because of things like giving 10% of voltage headroom.
On a related note, if you’re using a bare “12V” solar panel without any sort of voltage regulator, it can easily have an optimum working voltage approaching 18V.
I have a “12V” panel with an optimum working voltage of 17.5V and an open circuit voltage of 21.6V. Some chips will fry instantly if you exceed their maximum rating even at a tiny current, and we don’t know if the TP5100 is one of them. I’m not chancing it, my panels will be getting switch-mode buck converters and power protection circuits.
If you’re not sure about this stuff, stick to a panel with a built in USB socket and voltage regulator.
For anyone who already has one of those mono or polycrystalline 12-volt unregulated panels, they can get a cheap Solar controller from Amazon or many hardware stores that regulate the voltage to 12 ~13.5 volts for battery charging that can work to charge the lantern, and some of the better models even have a USB charging port. (I have tested some of them already with my later 40 & 50 watt rigid 12-volt panels, but have not did a video review on them yet.
put me down for 2 please
ApostatePipe: amishbill: Stereodude: ApostatePipe:Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
Correct.
The only flat tops I’ve seen that will work in a light like this are the Sanyo GA like I’m using in the BLF LT1 wrapped battery sets I’m selling.
So the 30Q button tops would work.
Or you can add a solder blob to the top of the 30Q flat tops. Takes maybe 10 seconds per battery.
Or a magnet
put me down for 2 please
You’re already down for 5; are you asking for another 2?
SIGShooter: ApostatePipe: amishbill: Stereodude: ApostatePipe:Can this lantern run off of Samsung 30Q flat tops? If so, put me down for one.
It needs a batteries with a raised center contact on the + end. 30Q flat tops I’ve seen and handled don’t meet that requirement.
Correct.
The only flat tops I’ve seen that will work in a light like this are the Sanyo GA like I’m using in the BLF LT1 wrapped battery sets I’m selling.
So the 30Q button tops would work.
Or you can add a solder blob to the top of the 30Q flat tops. Takes maybe 10 seconds per battery.
Or a magnet
I’d be very concerned about using a magnet since it can move when screwing the tube on.