What the heck, I added you for another 2 
Put me down for one please
Exactly right. I tried some magnets on flat tops in my Q8 and tightening the head scrubbed them off the terminals. The LT1 would do the same, I’m sure.
There are multiple different common English vernacular conventions for how to operate a momentary switch, and more than one includes the phrase “click & hold” with different meanings. Some flashlights use “Click & Hold” for a single long press, while some use the exact same phrase for a short click followed by a long press… and that’s before getting into non-English conventions. This item is for a global audience.
So I chose a convention pretty carefully to produce the least confusion across multiple dialects, cultures, and languages:
- Press: Push the button to “short” or connect the circuit it controls.
- Release: Let go of the button to “break” or disconnect the circuit it controls.
- Click: Press then release the button quickly.
- Press and hold: Push the button and keep it in the connected state for longer than a click.
- Hold: Usually shorthand for “press and hold”.
- A, B: Sequence of actions. Do action “A”, then quickly do action “B”.
When someone is unsure what something like “click, hold” means, one can fall back to the more detailed descriptions like “press, release, press, then wait before releasing”.
Usually though, the key at the top of the UI diagram is sufficient to avoid the need for that. It specifically indicates that “hold” is not the same thing as “click, hold”, which leaves only one internally-consistent interpretation of what each phrase means. However, starting the notation at “click & hold” instead of “hold” allows for two different internally-consistent interpretations, which makes it ambiguous.
For brevity, there’s also a number-based notation with a number to indicate how many times to press the button, and a letter to indicate whether the final press is short or long. (for the sake of simplicity, long presses in the middle of a sequence are not supported) 1C / 1H / 2C / 2H / 3C / 3H / etc…
The convention is expanded in more detail in the source code, where it needs to be more specific about the exact timing of each event. Each sequence is made of alternating press events and release events, with the final press optionally turning into a hold after enough time has passed. Then at the end, the sequence terminates with either a “hold release” or a “release timeout”, depending on whether the final press was long or short. Afterward, any further events will be treated as part of a new sequence.
For example:
- EV_click1_press: The moment when the user presses the button the first time in a sequence.
- EV_click1_release: The moment when the user quickly releases the button the first time in a sequence — less than 24 frames (384ms) after the “press” event.
- EV_click1_complete: After a single press and release, the moment when the time window expires for entering additional clicks in this sequence. This is the end of a sequence. It happens 18 frames (288ms) after EV_click1_release.
- EV_1click: Shorthand for EV_click1_complete, because it makes the source code easier to read.
- EV_click1_hold: The moment when the first press has been held long enough to count as a “hold” instead of a “click”. Gets sent once per timer tick during the hold event, with the value indicating how long the button has been pressed.
- EV_click1_hold_release: The moment when the user lets go of the button after a previous “hold” event.
… and then the pattern starts over with EV_click2_press, and keeps going up for each possible input sequence. Each press and release event in the sequence has up to five different times when the firmware can respond, not counting the intermediate frames — press, release, hold, hold-release, or timeout. A complete click is a “press, release, timeout” and a complete hold is “press, hold, hold-release”.
Waiting for timeout after a hold-release might be nice for symmetry, but in practice it just adds annoying delays into the UI, so it terminates hold events at release instead of at timeout.
Apologies for the excess amounts of detail; I hope it helps make more sense of things.
Dear lord, don’t put a non-permanently mounted piece of metal inside a tube with 4 high capacity batteries and a positive contact that will scrape sideways over them as it’s tightened down. When (not if) Mr Murphy comes to visit, the best you can hope for is a cell that is not making contact. If it gets jammed between the tip and side casing of the battery, all bets are off, and I hope the negative spring contact burns up before the other 3 batteries dump their load into a short too.
I’m not a fan of using (relatively) soft solder blobs on the top of batteries in a light where the positive contact scrapes across the top of the battery either, but I’ll take that every day and twice on Sundays over slapping magnets on the top of your flat tops in this style light.
+1. There are negative paths surrounding the positive terminal/ring. Each turn of the head is a sort of Russian Roulette.
The point about the soft solder blobs is a good one as well, so those using soldered flat tops will want to check for solder flakes each time they re-assemble the lantern and check the cell blobs for wear.
A light like this obviously prefers button tops, but even with those there will some wear on the positive ring. Has anyone with a similar multi-cell light with a positive terminal ring made into the PCB ever had any wear issues after extensive usage? I’ve noticed that many commercial lights tend to use cell cartridges that then mate in a more traditional manner with a spring or ruggedized central terminal.
I usually solder a copper ring made out of 12 gauge wire to the top of flat tops to avoid solder flakes, etc problems but since the lantern has built-in charging I suspect that solder blobs and wear on the positive ring terminal will be less of an issue as oppose to something like the Q8.
I haven’t noticed any wear issues with my Q8’s but then again I don’t have that many battery changes on them.
I have used solder-blobs on all my flat-top cells for years in the Q8/SRK type lights, never had a problem, and i agree that is a far safer method than using magnets that can slide & short cells. :+1: one of the tricks is to use silicone grease, (or any petroleum-based non-conductive oil to lube the bras ring) I been using 3-in-1 oil to add some lubrication to the brass ring on the drivers for years with solder-blob-modded flat top cells.
Have you found anything yet? I apologise, I forgot what a US plug looked like.
I stumbled upon this Baseus Travel chargers which separates from the travel section so can be used in the US or abroad and then there is this Anker desktop job which comes with a US plug.
Anyway, good luck finding something suitable.
Yes, but why the love for the 30Q? It’s not a high current draw light. 3500mAh cells will do just fine and have more capacity.
Edit: I totally misread this the first time.
But are they PURPLE 
BG had a cheap deal on 4 30Q button top so that’s what i bought, glad i didn’t go 35E because the single I ordered for another project arrived as a 21700 in the wrong box :person_facepalming:
The nice thing about the 30Qs is that they are inexpensive, and very versatile.
Similar experience. Instead of 4x35E Banggood sent me 3x35E + 1x30Q :person_facepalming:
:face_with_monocle: There’s a reason I buy from https://www.imrbatteries.com/ or https://liionwholesale.com/
I’m interested! Please put me down for 2.
One, please!
Thanks!!
Because I have a gazillion of them.
I got a few cheap 30Q off BG also but they where fakes. IR way off the originals and they can’t handle emisar d4 on full power like the stock ones. Going back to buying from nkon.nl for now seeing how expensive It is to buy cheap ones
Guess I never thought about multicell lights, maybe don’t listen to me