*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

[DBSAR]

@maxacarp

Since the codes last through December, does that mean that the codes won’t work for the colors in Batch 3 or we would be issued new codes instead? Thanks!

I am unsure of that, Sorfirn or Barry can answer that hopefully.

[Kodrann]

Sorry if this is a dumb question but its the LT1 supposed to thermal throttle? I forgot to lock out mine and it turned on inside my backpack, after 2 hours when I picked up the bag I noticed it was warm… the head of the lantern was too hot to touch and the batteries and carrier were warm, even my L21a that was inside was warm too.

Maybe it was too much heat to handle? Should I calibrate the temp sensor? Again sorry if this is normal in a closed environment like a backpack, I really like the lantern and would be sad if it burns itself down lol

[djozz]

@Kodrann

Sorry if this is a dumb question but its the LT1 supposed to thermal throttle? I forgot to lock out mine and it turned on inside my backpack, after 2 hours when I picked up the bag I noticed it was warm… the head of the lantern was too hot to touch and the batteries and carrier were warm, even my L21a that was inside was warm too.

Maybe it was too much heat to handle? Should I calibrate the temp sensor? Again sorry if this is normal in a closed environment like a backpack, I really like the lantern and would be sad if it burns itself down lol

There is no thermal regulation in the LT1.

At room temperature without cooling or air flow, the LT1 with all chips enabled eventually reaches 62 degrees Celsius on top which is hot but a very safe temperature.

In a closed environment like in a backpack, if switched on at full power, the LT1 will get much hotter of course, but as other flashlights, it probably can handle well over 100 degrees Celsius before damage occurs. Given that too hot to touch already starts at 55 degrees, there is quite a lot of headroom there before things really go wrong with the light. So your LT1 will probably be alright, but of course that can be different for the other stuff in your backpack.

Next time locking out your lantern may be a good idea?

[Kodrann]

Understood Thanks for your answer!

Yeah will do! I have learned my lesson with my SP36 but since it is the first time I throw it in my backpack, I completely forgot to “4Tap”

[Unloco]

@pooptoast

I would also definitely prefer to wait for the orange version for my second lantern. I don’t mind waiting as long as it takes but I would hope we can still get it at group buy prices once available.
…

+1

I still haven’t bought the first one.
I have the code but I prefer to wait for the orange version (at ebay).

[saypat]

I haven’t purchased the first one either. Probably not going to. Not that it isn’t a great offering at a great price, it is, just that there are other lights I would prefer and CAN’T BUY EM ALL!

[bmg50]

Is it too late to get a group buy code for Amazon? @sofirn

[amishbill]

@bmg50

Is it too late to get a group buy code for Amazon? `sofirn

You should PM that user directly. I don’t think the board is infected with ` automation.

[wahoowad]

Sorry, searched and could not find the ‘dimensions’ of the lantern. I want it so I can shop for a cheap neoprene camera lens case to protect it. Anybody know the dimensions?

We need a LT1 wiki. Too much non-factual info (questions, tears, etc) in this thread and would be great to have a reference.

[toobadorz]

Just found a tint ramp bug on my LT1. You may reproduce it as follows:

1. Reset to factory default (not really necessary, just to ensure a common beginning)
2. Enter the lowest brightness with the default stepped ramping.
3. Ramp the tint to the warmest or the coldest side.
4. Now stepped ramp to higher brightness levels, and you’ll see it. If you chose to ramp the tint to the warmest side, now the tint gets cooler when the brightness is ramping up. If you chose to ramp the tint to the coldest side, now the tint gets warmer when the brightness is ramping up.

Not a bug, but a feature?

I’m unable to flash my LT1 because the programming holes don’t work as they should. I explained the programming issue here: BLF LT1 Runtime test *updated 12/11 with step level 2*

[sbslider]

It is not a firmware problem, it is the design. One can choose to have warm tint at low light, and cool tint at bright light, or the converse. That has been discussed in this thread previously.

regarding the programming pads,

@ToyKeeper

@atobe

Would the d4v2 flashing kit work on the LT1? They look similar, not sure if the pin are in the same place.

Not quite. The pin layout is slightly different.

If you were to add one more pin to the Emisar kit though, and move a couple wires, then it would work.

Not sure what version of the programming key you have, but it appears some small mods need to be made to work with the LT1. I don’t know anything more than this regarding the key. I do know that connecting directly to the chip works fine.

[spinynorman]

It’s supposed to do that.

[sbslider]

@spinynorman

It’s supposed to do that. :person_facepalming:

take it up with ToyKeeper if you like.

[toobadorz]

@sbslider

It is not a firmware problem, it is the design. One can choose to have warm tint at low light, and cool tint at bright light, or the converse. That has been discussed in this thread previously.

Good. Thanks for the info. It’s almost impossible to follow ~9900 posts to learn this fact… :person_facepalming:

@sbslider

regarding the programming pads,

@ToyKeeper

@atobe

Would the d4v2 flashing kit work on the LT1? They look similar, not sure if the pin are in the same place.

Not quite. The pin layout is slightly different.

If you were to add one more pin to the Emisar kit though, and move a couple wires, then it would work.

Not sure what version of the programming key you have, but it appears some small mods need to be made to work with the LT1. I don’t know anything more than this regarding the key. I do know that connecting directly to the chip works fine.

Of course I’m using the Lexel one, not the Emisar one. I own both, and I have confirmed that the pins on the Lexel one do match those holes on both ROT66G2 and LT1. However that just didn’t work. I don’t like to pull out the driver each time for a firmware upgrade.

I also soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.

I did successfully reflash my Emisar D4S, D4V2, Fireflies E01, PL47G2. I suppose I know how to do this correctly with programming “holes” or “pads”.

[sbslider]

@toobadorz

[
Good. Thanks for the info. It’s almost impossible to follow ~9900 posts to learn this fact… :person_facepalming:

I hear you.

Regarding the programming, maybe Lexel can help here then. I don’t know the order of the pads, but one could fairly easily figure out what pads go to which pins on the Attiny85, but it would require removing the board once.

Lexel did test a prototype board, and I’m almost certain ToyKeeper has reprogrammed the LT1 via the pads several times, as she provided me a few builds to test. Maybe she also knows if there is some specific wire swap that needs to be made.

Sorry I can’t help more, if/when you learn something please post it.

[toobadorz]

Sure, thanks

[spinynorman]

@sbslider

@spinynorman

It’s supposed to do that. :person_facepalming:

take it up with ToyKeeper if you like.

The facepalm was for the “bug” comment, not the tint ramping feature.

[BrianK]

I’m fine with another one in black (better to hide it from the wife ), let others have what they want.

[amishbill]

@wahoowad

Sorry, searched and could not find the ‘dimensions’ of the lantern. I want it so I can shop for a cheap neoprene camera lens case to protect it. Anybody know the dimensions?
…

I started a thread on LT1 Carry Cases to capture carry case information outside of this monster of a thread. Your dimensions are there.

[joechina]

@ToyKeeper

It’s hard to say exactly, until the lantern gets measured by people who are equipped to do it accurately. The shape and beam pattern make it difficult to measure, so the specs are more “educated guesses” than accurate measurements. It’d probably need a somewhat larger sphere than usual, ideally with a reference light to calibrate the sphere after the lantern is inserted, and potentially a reflective coating on the dark top section of the light. …

For what is a reflective coating necessary?

I thought you can calculate the loss of the body by:

1. use the empty sphere with the reference calibration light
2. use the sphere with the off/dark lantern and the reference calibration light
3. calculate how much light the lantern body absorbed
4. then measure the brightness of the lantern
5. use the calculated correction for the body.

(sorry if already answered, I am 300 posts or so behind)