I’m using a 25r in mine
Sometimes it seems too short. I’m using a glass lens and o-ring. It takes up a couple millimetres.
What about the thickness of glass,and height of the reflector?
You can thread out the switch a little. In this case, it wont tail-stand.
Hi. I tried my Efest in it last night and you are correct, it is too fat. It would just about squeeze in, but way tighter than I’d like. And seeing as the 25R’s fit perfectly, I didn’t force the Efest in.
So apologies, I obviously hadn’t used the Efest in it.
Can someone post some pics showing how the pieces for the tailcap/tail end goes together?
Does the switch piece screw in first, and then the button and the other end piece behind that?
What about the o-rings? Where do those go?
I didn’t get a rubber boot either (or also)…
O-rings I assumed where spares, as per most other lights that supply them. Could be wrong, but couldn’t see anywhere to put them other than where there where already O-rings.
As for the switch assembly. Screw the actual switch in first, spring pointing towards the head of the torch. It’ll be trial and error (or you could measure I guess) on how far in you need to screw it.
Then place the Ti button cap in the large retainer bit. It should fit perfect, so the button sticks out, but doesn’t fall through.
Now screw this down. It won’t screw all the way into the body, but the O-ring on it should seat and become sealed and you won’t be able to tighten it any further.
I found this a little fiddly, as you don’t want the Ti cap to fall into the body, so I did this with the tail point towards the ground to keep the Ti cap in the correct place.
If you screwed the switch in too far, then the Ti cap will just fall through inbetween the switch and the retainer. If you didn’t screw it in far enough, then you won’t be able the screw the retainer in all the way.
Although you can choose. I wanted mine to tail stand, but if you look at the pics from James earlier in the thread, you can see they have the switch protruding a lot.
The rubber boot, I’m lead to believe this should go against the underside of the Ti cap, so that it is between the cap and the actual plunger on the switch assembly. I think it is there to:
-remove slope from the switch cap
-maybe improve water proofing
I did get the boot, but didn’t really get it to seat well. So at the moment I am not using the boot. The cap has a small amount of rattle in it, i.e. turn the flashlight head facing down, to facing up and the cap will move about a bit. But it isn’t IMO a real problem. And it switches on, off and mode changes perfectly well, as well as tail stands.
I have read that to use the boot, you may need to trim the rubber post in the boot, which might be why I found it didn’t fit very well when I tried it.
Dbc what size did you use? Was it Difficult? The bolts bug me.
14mm boot fits. 502B works best with trimmed button. It looks like the metal post on the button needs a bit of sanding or filing to remove the spur and flatten the end.
Thanks! I didn’t get a rubber boot, so I’ll have to see what I have around or email Rey. Maybe he can send one with the new switch if he ever gets that purchase going.
ohaya: Rey moves fast. The switch purchase is going….and shipping. Just so you know.
I’m anxious. My BLF Ti got as close to me as the next city, then took a wrong turn and ended up in Canada! I haven’t seen any shipping updates since then…
As for the spare O-rings, the smaller O-ring goes into the metal button retainer to seal the threaded portion of the button in the back.
hmm r d still available for sale?
Ouch! Try Canada post tracking?
Sorry, it is a mistake. Switches are not shipped yet, though I placed the shipping orders on Post Office website and got a tracking number.
It's the smaller retainer problem. Will make our own retainers.
I will check with the shipping company.
It took a little vacation in Canada and Ohio, but it arrived today. 
That just leaves one question: XP-G2 S3 3D triple, or Nichia 219B triple?
Also, I suppose one more question. Is there a trick to getting the front and back pieces together without the 18650 spacer? My threads don’t seem to match up quite right if I remove the spacer. It’s not a huge issue, but I was kind of hoping to be able to use 18350 sometimes instead of 18650.
It should work fine without the extension tube, mine did.
Mine too…