Bought a C3 XP-E but hate the driver... What can I do?

It’s doable…but not easy, you can get a 13mm AA boost from fasttech and build up the ring on the outside

I designed a 15mm 7135 Nanjg based driver if you are interested

It is 14500 only not AA anymore though, you can either strip a normal 105C for the parts or build one from scratch

I don’t think they have a 15mm boost AA driver anywhere other than the SK68

I ended up taking the driver from a cheap sk68 and now it works great. Actually quite a nice wee light I think.

LOL. This funny in a mean way(b/c it just seems so wrong.) But I’m glad it seemed to workout for all the parties involved.

Thanks for the tips :slight_smile:

I actually found a post which shows that it wouldn’t be possible to even turn down the pill to fit a 17mm driver in.

The driver in the pic is a 17mm driver, so I’ll just have to dump that idea.

Granted this isn’t the exact same light but the more expensive ultrafire version. But the dimensions still look identical to the FT SS C3.

Maybe I could just chop the front bit off the pill and press the driver straight into the head?

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I did the same with one sk68, I simply glued on a 17mm driver without pushing it into the pill. And then soldered some copper wire on the side to contact the body for ground connection.

I guess if there’s room on this light, you can do the same. Otherwise some chopping off may be necessary, but the method should still work.

With the correct LVP settings (or LVP disabled) you can run them on 2x energizer lithium’s @ 3.6v especially when using an XM-L2 at low power (because of its awesomely low vF). I’ve done it on the bench with your BLF-SK68’s.

Guy looking for the driver currently (sorry I forget who and I can’t see cause I’m quoting WarHawk) I can send you a 1-mode SK68 stock driver if you want, if your in the US just PayPal me $2.50 for postage and it’ll go in the mail Monday.

Hope comfy won’t mind I’m posting his pic’s…

You could shorten the pill the thickness of a driver then solder it on the bottom (if its brass), otherwise use some of that conductive glue or just mix copper dust into thermal adhesive.

Again this is comfychair’s picture, it wouldn’t let me hotlink it so I had to rehost…