I've ordered 1 white B158 (with tracking + insurance
) some hours ago. Thanks again for this deal! 
Didn't order the brass pill, because I'm not sure if I can make it. I've no idea regarding flashlight DIYs and no experience at all in soldering. I believe I can make it though, since I've done lots of kinds of DIYs (even in electronics), simply following "How to" guides/videos. So... get ready! I'm affraid I might bust your b@ll@cks with what follows... :lol:
ok, that's easy even for me to do! :p
Since it's out of stock, which driver should I buy then?
- 17mm Single-Sided FET Driver PCB - V1.11 - MTN-17DD
- 17mm Single-Sided FET+7135 Driver PCB - V1.0 - MTN-17DDm
Supposing I get the answer for Nr.1 or Nr.2 driver, then (as I understand) I have to assemble it with another part (that I don't know) and make it look like FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm - MTN-17DDm ("driver Nr.3" which is out of stock)? But how do I assemble it? I'm not aware of the DIY procedure. I don't even know how are called (and where to get from) the rest of the parts that are necessary for the assembly.
All these words in red... I'm not 100% sure if I understand what they are.
If there was terminology with pictures somewhere, it would be really helpfull for a "foreign DIY flashaholic wannabe"!
Anyway, if I understood well the architecture of the pill (which is this), in it's upper part is the MCPBC with the LED emmiter (like this) and in it's bottom part the FET driver with the upper spring (like this). What I don't get, is why thermal adhesive is needed in order to mount the MCPCB to the pill. Where do I have to put the thermal adhesive? By mhanlen's video I thought that the thermal adhesive (or soldering) is needed if somebody wants to change the LED emitter on a MCPBC. Is it needed because the press fit ring will be destroyed when I'll try to get the original B158's driver out (according to posts #93 to #97), so you propose to put the thermal adhesive instead of soldering (as you wrote @ post #126) ?
Well... at least I understood why I "need the soldering iron to make the connection between the positive and negative wires and the pads on the MCPCB" when I saw mhanlen's video at 0'20" and 2'10" (though I still don't know what pads are). I also understood that "solder the ground ring of the driver to the brass pill" has to do with the "Tutorial for bridging springs" that follows.
[quote=Kloepper Knife Works] Here's a tutorial on adding a braid (I prefer 18-20ga silicone or Teflon coated wire). "Tutorial for bridging springs":https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19507 [/quote]
I've read it and understood the general idea, but I'm not 100% sure if I could do it. As I'm the opposite of an expert in soldering, is there a really easy way to bridge the head/tail spring? Let's suppose that instead of copper braid I'm using an old coper cable (or another cable you propose) that I simply twist it around the spring (from botom to top). Would that be ok, or is it most probable that it'll guide to malfunction?
Link for the red? I searched but I didn't find it. Is it something like FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm - MTN-17DDm? Could BLF A6 A17DD-L FET+1 2.8-4.35v 7/4 Modes Flashlight Driver do the job well in my B158 project? If I manage to get a "FET + driver" that suits the B158's brass pill, then I don't need to get some parts or/and do some of the rest that KKW wrote?
My concern is what to do... in general! That's why I've asked for a "How to" guide in previous post. Good to know that if I manage to get FET +1 driver with Toykeepers firmware from Mtnelectronics with the driver spring already bypassed that Rufusbduck wrote, then the spring bypass might be needed only at the tail (as shown at the tutorial). So please give me some info where to find something like that (FET + driver and all the parts I need) that can be shipped to Greece. Could the parts needed be on fasttech, dx, gearbest, banggood etc?
Sorry for my confusion and thanks for your patience guys! 